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Nice build for Champcar.
A few things I noticed, based on our experience: The center console panel switches might be hard to reach when belted in. We mount ours further aft towards the shifter and angle it towards driver. Just make sure the drivers fingers can't hit the switches when in 1-3-5 gears. The gauge hoods on that printed bezel might obscure the gauge from the drivers sight line. Might have to trim the left edges down a bit. A single remote mounted kill switch sucks voltage. A double remote mechanical kill switch sucks lots of voltage. If you have a big battery with lots of CCA, it might be OK. If it's a lightweight battery, you might find it cranking too slow to fire in cold weather. Solid state master switches solve that problem but aren't cheap. We only use solid state switches now. |
The welds that hold the seat mount panel to the floor do not inspire confidence.
In addition, why send the primary electrical cable to the rear after it reaches the driver kill switch? Why not just go forward to the engine bay? |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1591393)
Nice build for Champcar.
A few things I noticed, based on our experience: The center console panel switches might be hard to reach when belted in. We mount ours further aft towards the shifter and angle it towards driver. Just make sure the drivers fingers can't hit the switches when in 1-3-5 gears. The gauge hoods on that printed bezel might obscure the gauge from the drivers sight line. Might have to trim the left edges down a bit. A single remote mounted kill switch sucks voltage. A double remote mechanical kill switch sucks lots of voltage. If you have a big battery with lots of CCA, it might be OK. If it's a lightweight battery, you might find it cranking too slow to fire in cold weather. Solid state master switches solve that problem but aren't cheap. We only use solid state switches now. |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5651ed5ba.jpeg
You’re going to need these tire stencils |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1591393)
Nice build for Champcar.
A few things I noticed, based on our experience: The center console panel switches might be hard to reach when belted in. We mount ours further aft towards the shifter and angle it towards driver. Just make sure the drivers fingers can't hit the switches when in 1-3-5 gears. The gauge hoods on that printed bezel might obscure the gauge from the drivers sight line. Might have to trim the left edges down a bit. A single remote mounted kill switch sucks voltage. A double remote mechanical kill switch sucks lots of voltage. If you have a big battery with lots of CCA, it might be OK. If it's a lightweight battery, you might find it cranking too slow to fire in cold weather. Solid state master switches solve that problem but aren't cheap. We only use solid state switches now. |
Originally Posted by fmcokc
(Post 1591608)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5651ed5ba.jpeg
You’re going to need these tire stencils |
Nice build dude. If you need a driver spot to fill I would jump in for sure. I’m right in Boston too but I’ll travel I don’t care.
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Emilio,
We also have a Champcar build going, have raced and shared a pit area with Clutch100. Our NB has a DPST mechanical switch. When we are testing/demonstrating the engine kill from 2000+ RPM something seems to be killing alternators. Have you or anyone you know experienced this? We are using MS3 that regulates the NB alternator, we are thinking of trying a NA8 alternator and see if the issue goes away.
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1591393)
Nice build for Champcar.
A few things I noticed, based on our experience: The center console panel switches might be hard to reach when belted in. We mount ours further aft towards the shifter and angle it towards driver. Just make sure the drivers fingers can't hit the switches when in 1-3-5 gears. The gauge hoods on that printed bezel might obscure the gauge from the drivers sight line. Might have to trim the left edges down a bit. A single remote mounted kill switch sucks voltage. A double remote mechanical kill switch sucks lots of voltage. If you have a big battery with lots of CCA, it might be OK. If it's a lightweight battery, you might find it cranking too slow to fire in cold weather. Solid state master switches solve that problem but aren't cheap. We only use solid state switches now. |
How do you have it wired now?
Try wiring it like this as far as the wire from the alternator. Don't use the second (small) set of terminals on the DPST. The alternator needs a path to discharge back to the battery or it can damage the diodes. never had good luck with the DPST switches. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6437225dac.jpg |
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