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Master relay fix!
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7a8874abfe.jpg
Like everyone I'm sure that once you add a bigger fuel pump you are likely to start melting the plastic and getting unpredictable behavior. After hearing that a replacement was $60 I decided that wouldn't happen. I looked up Amazon for 80 amp relays and bases. There are a good number of them. I landed up buying them separately because I wanted a name brand relay. $13 for a Bosch relay and $5 for a base rated for 90 amps. I debated between using spade connectors but decided to connect behind the panel. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fb5bed72c9.jpg I landed up getting done copper tubing and connected the wires to verify I had it right. Then I crimped the copper to join the wires she then heated and soldered the wires. Then heat shrink and finite. Works great. I landed up running the wires thru the panel and attached it off of the mounting bolt. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9ea5dd81dc.jpg Up next will be a bigger relay for the fuel pump using standard relays. Big pump gets the wires pretty flexible! Total time- 20 minutes. If I did it again I would probably wire in an led off of the output side. Don't ever want to chase my tail again on this one! |
Can you go over the wiring diagram for this, please?
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Originally Posted by miatajo
(Post 1502130)
Can you go over the wiring diagram for this, please?
I did see your private message but unfortunately I don't have much memory of what or how I did much of this. I imagine a multi meter should be a quick tool to find continuity between the positive terminal and 1 point. That should be your main 12v. The same trick with negative should find the ground. If you find continuity when the key is turned you have the signal wire which means the last wire is your other wire. Hopefully that helps. I don't know what model year you have but looking at a wiring diagram should make the pinout very simple. Best of luck |
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