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-   -   Miata cooling system thread (https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/miata-cooling-system-thread-79930/)

hornetball Jun 5, 2015 10:44 AM

Flat or gentle curves is best for aerodynamic drag and downforce. You add louvers to let cooling air escape where needed -- use sparingly. Unfortunately, we usually have to add drag or give up some downforce to cool the car. Note that an air outlet on top of the hood can add downforce while improving cooling -- but still adds drag -- and you have to deal with rain. No free lunches.

JasonC SBB Jun 5, 2015 11:11 AM

How's the MSM rad different than the regular?

Thicker?
Tighter fin pitch?
Tighter tube pitch?

Chiburbian Jun 5, 2015 11:15 AM

I don't have a MSM but I do have an NB with a mishimoto radiator and fans. Even after doing what I thought was a pretty good job of ducting and retaining factory under tray I am still seeing higher temps at cruise than I'd like. I might be taking off my front end this weekend and if so I'll take pics.

EO2K Jun 5, 2015 11:25 AM


Originally Posted by JasonC SBB (Post 1237829)
How's the MSM rad different than the regular?

Thicker?
Tighter fin pitch?
Tighter tube pitch?

Yes ;)

Keith@FM Jun 5, 2015 11:27 AM


Originally Posted by Chiburbian (Post 1237833)
I don't have a MSM but I do have an NB with a mishimoto radiator and fans. Even after doing what I thought was a pretty good job of ducting and retaining factory under tray I am still seeing higher temps at cruise than I'd like. I might be taking off my front end this weekend and if so I'll take pics.

The problem you have is those crap Mishimoto fans. They're terrible.

Chiburbian Jun 5, 2015 11:45 AM


Originally Posted by Keith@FM (Post 1237839)
The problem you have is those crap Mishimoto fans. They're terrible.

I agree. I had no idea how bad they would be. I just don't have the $$ for your setup Keith.

That said, I still don't understand how my car could be as hot as it is under light throttle at 60mph. I don't want to turn this into a troubleshooting thread for me but there really is nowhere else for air to go but into my radiator.

Edit to fix LOLs.

concealer404 Jun 5, 2015 11:49 AM


Originally Posted by Chiburbian (Post 1237854)
I agree. I had no idea how bad they would be. I just don't have the $$ for your setup Jeremy.

That said, I still don't understand how my car could be as hot as it is under light throttle at 60mph. I don't want to turn this into a troubleshooting thread for me but there really is nowhere else for air to go but into my radiator.

You mean besides around your entire car. ;)

Keith@FM Jun 5, 2015 11:49 AM

Jeremy doesn't post under the name "Keith" :)

I'd start by going back to stock fans.

humming Jun 5, 2015 12:53 PM

Chiburbian, Message Maduh, he also got mishimoto rad and fans, had massive overheating issues, kept the rad, went back to stock fans, big improvement.

JasonC SBB Jun 6, 2015 02:26 PM

Oveheating at low speeds is a sure sign of crappy fans.

Mobius Jun 6, 2015 05:19 PM


Originally Posted by patsmx5 (Post 1237761)
The next time I get serious with heat exchangers, the A/C condenser is going in the rear of the vehicle, and the Intercooler and Radiator are getting V-mounted with proper ducting and at least 1 fan on each heat exchanger.

Not sure why you'd want a fan on the intercooler? I know with my car, any time I'd be seeing load enough to be putting the intercooler to work, there would be airflow enough to make the intercooler work. The intercooler doesn't really do anything when idling in traffic.

Unless you're just referring to the rad and ac condenser.

patsmx5 Jun 6, 2015 07:11 PM


Originally Posted by Mobius (Post 1238144)
Not sure why you'd want a fan on the intercooler? I know with my car, any time I'd be seeing load enough to be putting the intercooler to work, there would be airflow enough to make the intercooler work. The intercooler doesn't really do anything when idling in traffic.

Unless you're just referring to the rad and ac condenser.

I'd have one so I can cool the intercooler down while standing still. Example, make a pass at the drag strip, then get in staging lanes and sit. Car only gets airflow when I'm wide open, then I nail the brakes and it can't get air till I do it again. Also the SC seems to dump more heat at idle into the IC then the either of the turbos I ran ever did.

But yeah I'd have at least 1 fan on every heat exchanger because I drag race the car.

Mobius Jun 6, 2015 10:43 PM

Ah, ok, that makes sense then to avoid heatsoak in that use case.

vehicular Jun 8, 2015 10:05 AM


Originally Posted by patsmx5 (Post 1238152)
I'd have one so I can cool the intercooler down while standing still. Example, make a pass at the drag strip, then get in staging lanes and sit. Car only gets airflow when I'm wide open, then I nail the brakes and it can't get air till I do it again. Also the SC seems to dump more heat at idle into the IC then the either of the turbos I ran ever did.

But yeah I'd have at least 1 fan on every heat exchanger because I drag race the car.

With the bypass valve open, the blower just compresses the air charge over and over and over. This heat soaks the intercooler hard. If you log IATs I bet you'll see a 100F spike as you go WOT after an extended highway cruise (similar conditions relative to the supercharger).

patsmx5 Jun 8, 2015 10:08 AM


Originally Posted by vehicular (Post 1238410)
With the bypass valve open, the blower just compresses the air charge over and over and over. This heat soaks the intercooler hard. If you log IATs I bet you'll see a 100F spike as you go WOT after an extended highway cruise (similar conditions relative to the supercharger).

My AITs are sort of ok now that I have a huge 20x12x3 bar/plate IC. ~10-15 over ambient at cruise, but they climb under load more than I like, about 50F increase in 7 seconds. This IC was fine with a turbo, but is struggling with the heat from the SC.

Keith@FM Jun 8, 2015 11:06 AM

FYI, we played with IC sprayers back in 2003. When the car came off the track at Willow Springs, the intercooler was cold to the touch. Quite effective.

That car didn't overheat, either. About 350 hp (radical at the time) with our best rad of the era (probably equivalent to the typical Koyo of today), a huge oil cooler out of an air-cooled Porsche mounted where a headlight should be, a vented hood (prototype for the old FM unit), nose ducting with airdam and splitter, an early reroute, two big Spal fans, no AC and the IC sprayer. Loads of airflow through the heat exchangers.

tazswing Jun 8, 2015 11:44 AM

Sealing up the top of the radiator made a big difference for my MSM. Does anyone have any tricks for getting the sides of the radiator sealed up better? Such a pain to get to. I am thinking about cutting some sort of plastic to slide down the sides since metal tape won't stay put in there.

humming Jun 8, 2015 11:54 AM


Originally Posted by tazswing (Post 1238437)
Sealing up the top of the radiator made a big difference for my MSM. Does anyone have any tricks for getting the sides of the radiator sealed up better? Such a pain to get to. I am thinking about cutting some sort of plastic to slide down the sides since metal tape won't stay put in there.

Next time I pull my radiator I'm designing something for this. I'll post it in my build thread so keep an eye out.

EO2K Jun 8, 2015 12:13 PM

Agreed. I've never found an adhesive product that would stick to an aluminum radiator at track temps. Of course I've not tried very hard, but if someone has a link to something that works, I'd buy a roll.

aidandj Jun 8, 2015 12:23 PM

<p>Paging <span>@curly. He has some tape on his radiator that looks like its been there forever.</span></p>


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