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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1148391)
Whats with the fear of cutting the cross braces? Yeah it makes the hood floppy when its up and removed the spot the stock hood prop goes to, but with a couple of properly adjusted aerocaches + the venting = less hood rise and ripple than the stock setup at speed.
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Originally Posted by miata2fast
(Post 1148393)
Would this be an appropriate place to discuss reversing the flow?
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Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1148406)
Why? Trying to keep the head cooler?
I am hoping reversing the flow will cause the motor to be more detonation resistant than cooling the block first. |
Originally Posted by cyotani
(Post 1148398)
Nice summary of info Emilio. I third the conduction/convection corrections.
keith, how did you determine these pressures. Some sort of in vehicle testing of from a CFD type analysis? We're playing with electric water pumps on a couple of cars. Previous experiments weren't that promising, but the newest generation looks good. We have not changed the flow of the water. One of the coolest things is that it can run in closed loop with no thermostat. In fact, it appears the ND has a clutched water pump from the factory. Miata owners can be...difficult. If we can avoid cutting support structure, that's preferred. Besides, if an efficient vent can be designed that doesn't require any cuts to the support structure, where's the harm? |
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1148403)
I've got templates made up for the NA hood and could do the same for the NB..
Would be a short run though, sadly anything involving cutting your car up only appeals to a small niche of the community. -Ryan |
Originally Posted by Keith@FM
(Post 1148434)
We're playing with electric water pumps on a couple of cars. Previous experiments weren't that promising, but the newest generation looks good. We have not changed the flow of the water. One of the coolest things is that it can run in closed loop with no thermostat. |
Source of the NA/NB hood pressure maps
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1148403)
I've got templates made up for the NA hood and could do the same for the NB..
Would be a short run though, sadly anything involving cutting your car up only appeals to a small niche of the community. -Ryan |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by tomiboy
(Post 1148437)
Interested in hearing more about this. Got pics of your design?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405634814 Up until just a little while ago, I was running a hood in which I had these three holes cut out which matched the gaps in the supports below, always loved the look. Made this to fit the same idea.
Originally Posted by midpack
(Post 1148518)
As someone who is close to cutting holes in a MSM hood...I am interested. More details please. Will it have a lip to increase extraction efficiency? More and bigger hole than the Subie vent? Seriously, depending on timeline I may buy a set from you. I have to do something before Miatas@Hallett or I'll spend half of Friday running cool down laps.
I have a different part coming out of the waterjetter end of this week, so I might have them cut a prototype of this at the same time so I can fuss around with it. -Ryan |
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1148523)
I took a look at my NB today, looks like I can do something similar on that hood as well. Shapes are a little different but similar layout.
I have a different part coming out of the waterjetter end of this week, so I might have them cut a prototype of this at the same time so I can fuss around with it. -Ryan |
2 Attachment(s)
These NA pressures make sixshooter's dual subie extractors look superior to any centered-hood-hole-behind-the-radiator. I don't believe the numbers I used showed such a large difference L-R.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...-pressures-jpg
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1147650)
I would have thought if the oil temp was 235 and the water temp was 200 the factory oil sandwich plate would make some positive contribution to oil cooling during operation. But using an external cooler is, of course optimal. I'm currently using both which is probably not necessary....
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I know I did the center vent and tried to get over to the lower pressure, but I did it assuming that the pressure in the engine bay would still be higher than ambient, and that my 1" long "spoiler" on the leading edge would also decrease pressure behind it. It certainly works. When my coolant overflow (poland springs) bottle gets coolant in it, its sucked right out and onto the windshield.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1148567)
...assuming that the pressure in the engine bay would still be higher than ambient...
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2 Attachment(s)
Awesome thread Emilio. I look forward to your oil cooler thread too.
Excellent find on the subaru vents sixshooter! That seems ideal. I may have gone that route. I've come across these very pretty pictures that I used in picking my hood vent and oil cooler location along the NA centerline, but nothing beats real world testing with a gauge of some sort. cfd | Hancha Blog https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405521318 http://hanchagroup.files.wordpress.c...ot_1.png?w=960 |
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1148523)
Here's a snapshot of the AutoCAD file.. this is for the NA hood
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Originally Posted by miata2fast
(Post 1148490)
You would not happen to have done any before and after electric water pump dyno tests, have you?
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I only have (positive) experience with the Pierburg CWA200. I stuck mine in my bumper, but these are small enough to fit almost anywhere. Here is a guy who makes a controller and has it on his miata:
Tecomotive https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352816299 Every now and then I find the pump on ebay for cheap. Most standalones or an Arduino can be set up to control it if you didn't want to buy the finished controller above. |
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1148523)
Here's a snapshot of the AutoCAD file.. this is for the NA hood
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405486252 Up until just a little while ago, I was running a hood in which I had these three holes cut out which matched the gaps in the supports below, always loved the look. Made this to fit the same idea. I took a look at my NB today, looks like I can do something similar on that hood as well. Shapes are a little different but similar layout. I have a different part coming out of the waterjetter end of this week, so I might have them cut a prototype of this at the same time so I can fuss around with it. -Ryan Shane |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1147452)
This is a question for an oil cooler thread. that we're drafting.
I think you mean the oil warmer. That giblet does nothing to reduce oil temps. Not a single track car in our shop has one. We typically use a Mocal thermostat sandwich plate and generic Chinese temp sender plate (Glow-shift, Greddy, etc)) stacked. TB coolant lines always capped off. |
Originally Posted by AlwaysOnKill
(Post 1151136)
I'm hoping you will offer a oil cooler kit that is PNP .Down to the filter , with the correct size lines . I'll buy it now
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