z31maniac

I don't mind dealing with noise or dust.

I'm back to DD'ing the NC, but want to be able to go to a few Auto-X/HPDE with minimal prep (I know changing pads/rotors isn't hard, but I don't want to screw with it).

The car will run on 245 or 255 wide tires (ZII/RS-3/Rival). I literally want to drive to the track, unload the cooler/chair/tools, put my helmet on and go.

Any ideas on if I still need to stagger pad compounds like on the NA where I ran XP10/8 with a prop valve? Or will the EBD do a good enough job taking care of it if I run the same compound all around?

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I dual-dutied with inexpensive StopTech Street Performance pads (Rock Auto or TireRack) on the Silver car. Setup was 1.8 brakes all-around, 205 Rivals and 185-190RWHP. I run in the HPDE Advanced groups and never had any fading from them at relatively easy-braking tracks like MSR Cresson or Hallett. YMMV. The pads do taper and require frequent replacement though. But, they're cheap enough.

Can't help you with the stagger/prop valve question. My experience is without ABS and I would just adjust my braking points to avoid lockup. I also found that different corners could cause different ends to lock first based upon entry speed and chassis loading from elevation changes. Because of that, I put a cockpit-adjustable prop valve into the Red car -- but haven't driven it enough yet to really use that feature.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

I've got a set of XP8's on my 1.8 brakes and I've had no problems with them on the street or on the track. There was some fade in them at the track, but that might be more my fault from not bleeding the brakes well enough. They were consistent every lap once they reached their temperature.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

Our 2010 car chomps through pads like a fat girl through cake. Not sure on prep level of your car, but ducting to the brakes is vital. We pulled the ABS fuse and bias is ok. Leaving the ABS in place will dump a ton of heat into the brakes and will accelerate pad wear. Mind you, this was with spec pinata champions behind the wheel driving at 10/10ths of the car.

We've come to terms with DTC-60s and a maximum life of 6-8 hours for now. I don't suggest running them on the street. I'd give the carbotech XP10 all-around combo a shot. Dust wipes off with ease and have plenty cold stopping power. Beware of planet-alignment when bedding them in though

z31maniac

Ahhh, good to know about the ABS.

I ran Carbotech's on the old NA, never had problems bedding them in with either set.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

So have I and they've been perfectly fine. It does seem that some people have problems getting them bedded properly.

z31maniac

I'd really like to go with baller brakes just for the bling of it, but not sure I can justify $2700-2800 in brake upgrades (for a car that doesn't really need them), considering in a few months I should be taking the car down to Vorshlag to have a set of custom valved MCS coilovers put on the car.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Vorshlag? Where are you located Buddy?

z31maniac

Tulsa.

Going to try to schedule it around a week the wife will be in Dallas for work, so I can drive down, drop the car off for a day or two, have install/setup/corner balance, then pick it up and drive it home.

tomiboy

iTrader: (3)

+1

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

XP8s worked great for dual duty. They are noise about a week or two after a track event. You can get rid of the noise by heating them up again (or just do HPDE every week!). They are soft though, so they won't eat through your rotor when cold and the dust is non-corrosive which is nice.

Can also try HP+ or HPS for dual duty. won't get the same performance as the XP8s. HPS are questionable though...they have a similar fric. coeff curve to HP+, but not the same heat range.

z31maniac

Thanks for all the suggestions. Now to find the cheap rotors that are coated so the hats and ends don't rust and look like crap.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

apply header paint?