More air flow and thermal management
 

Added brake ducts and ducting to my oil cooler.

Your car is hooked up to the matrix. :giggle: Seriously that's cool. You got any track footage available online?
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...8-p1010008.jpg

Wow, you just beat us to it as we're in exactly the same process (brake ducts).
I see no ABS on your car. Do you thing that would still fit?

What size hose is that? 3"?

Nice ducting to brakes... giving me some ideas as that's where I'm at currently (brake ducting, wing and splitter)... :bigtu:

I like what you did there... Looks good man. On the brake duct units that mount to the backside of the spindle, did you make those or are they the ones at ISC? Also... Is there any reason you have the two ducts for the oil cooler dumping in-front of it rather than making a shroud and attaching them it 'directly'?

tell me those are Penseke shocks and not Toicko Blues.

It is a trick. they are revalved Koni Sports with DIY extended travel sperical ball top mounts and 2-1/4" 700/400 hypercoils. They were rusty so I painted them.

Shock upgrade is high on my list when funds become available. These have worked well for a long time and years ago when I made the setup there wasn't much of anything available that was better.

Bob

I made the spindle mount duct units myself. I didn’t make a shroud for the oil cooler simply because I didn’t make one, I might do that in the future, Not sure how much it would help I think the hoses just dumping air in front of the oil cooler will help quite a bit over not doing anything but that is just an educated guess. Im planning to fill the gap between the front splitter and the front sub frame with an aluminum sheet.

Bob

I don't have a camera and I have never had one in my car on track. Yet another thing to eventually buy.

Bob

I agree on the dumping in-front is better than nothing at all. In my plans for my track car I am doing something similar only with a shroud and puller fan on the backside of the oil cooler to maximize the cooling potential of the exchanger. Looks good regardless.

Looks like I need to make a trip up north to check this car out in person. I hear there is an auto-x next month. If my car is sorted out, that might be a good time...

Excellent. These mods are on my list of things to do. Was just going to weld onto the oem heatshield though, to lazy to pester friend to do an AL version... well he's to lazy also.

2.5" hose

I bought 4 of these.
NACA Ducts - 3" to 2-1/2" NACA Duct Adapter

I heated them and formed them and cut them to more or less fit two per opening on the GV lip spoiler, pop riveted them to the opening in the spoiler and black siliconed up the gaps.

The ABS sensor mounts directly where I have the hose connected. it would have to be a bit different with ABS.

Bob

He wont be at that autox because for some reason bob would rather be lapping at MRLS :asshole:

Bob, i'm just about to pick up some spindles from Kurt to build very similar brake ducts. I helped fabricate some for my friend's Pro3 racecar that are similar but a little more to them and 3" instead of 2.5"

Also, i have been thinking about where to put a damned oil cooler and that was the exact spot that kept rolling through my head.

I need to talk to you about welding some aluminum. I need a better outlet on my compressor and i'm not paying 50-60 bucks for the ATP adapter.

I will be at the Alfa performance driving school this weekend the 21st at Bremerton and at SCCA autocross #1 on the 28th also at Bremerton. I won't make it to the first Chuckanut events in Bellingham on April 10th and 11th, I will be lapping at Laguna Seca instead.

Bob

I can weld on an outlet no problem.

Bob

Bob, you should turn your oil cooler over (inlet and outlet at the top). You aren't using all of it otherwise.

Damn. I've gotta get to work. You've got those Wilwood Mini Cooper brakes up front + all that ducting now. Trying to give Sav, Emilio & Bellwilliam a run for their money?

Gonna be at that April 22nd Alfa club day at Pacific?

I would almost be inclided to enclose the oil cooler to maximize frlow through it from the ducts, but then you would be missing out on the cooling from the rest of the air moving over it.
Something to think about I supose

Looks good though!

Yea I can’t just look at it and tell which would be better without measurement or more in depth analysis And heck I've spent part of my working career modeling airflow through automotive cooling systems and in engine compartments.

Bob

I plan to be the April 22nd day at Pacific.

I haven’t had much brake issues since I pioneered the use of the Mini Cooper kit and started using Cobalt Friction XR2 pads but now for sure I will not have a problem.

The most recent upgrade to the brakes was swapping to a 929 1” master cylinder. What a huge improvement in feel that was. Next brake upgrade will be swapping out the rear calipers to ones with bigger pistons from a late gen M2 with the bigger sport brakes. Should allow me to adjust the willwood bias valve to something other than full rear I think.

Bob

I'm hoping to make that 22nd alfa day. Depends on my vacation schedule. I know my wife and I are doing some traveling in April, just not sure of the dates.

I thought you were using the Wilwood Civic kit in the rear? Not happy with the bite from those? Ditched those and went back to the stock caliper for the E-brake feature?

I'll look at that 929 MC. Even with stock brakes I've always thought the pedal was a little mushy.

I've got a set of the Mini Cooper Dynapro's like yours to go on the front along with RX7 rears with brackets that allow for a vented 11" rotor in back. Trying to decide on the right combination of calipers and discs for my usage though. Removing some of the shims I could use those big dynapro's on the front with an 11" rotor and keep with the stock rears. My Kosei's would fit fine that way where the Dynapro's with the 11.75 rotor is too big for them without a big shim.

Stainless steel lines would help with that mushy pedal Casey, mine's certainly not mushy, and it's the only difference in our systems beyond your Corroded rotor setup.

I have stock calipers in the rear the rotor and hat I’m using in the rear is from a wilwood Drag race kit for a Civic. They are 11.44” diameter. The non vented steel rotors that wildwood sells suck though, So I had custom rear rotors made out of cast Iron from Coleman Racing.

Which Kosi wheels do you have? I have used the older Kosi K1’s with no spacers and they fit fine. Probably the tightest fit of the wheels I have tried but they fit.

The RX7 rear caliper is a better match I think because of piston diameter. It should correct the two far forward bias nature of the stock system. But I have also discovered the Stock rear calipers from a big brake NB have the same piston diameter as the RX7 calipers and will fit on the earlier NA/NB caliper brackets so it is an easy swap for me.

Bob

Let us know how that turns out Bob... Would be interesting to see if you can improve on your current system.

My Kosei's are K1's also. I'm still working on the brake system. Haven't fiddled with spacing yet. As they were set up when I got them they just barely touched. I'm working on shimming them differently but I'm slow and lazy and haven't spent much time on it yet. It's a daily driver so I have to make sure it stays drivable while I'm screwing with it.

Let me say a BIG THANK YOU for your great write up on the brakes. That page has been favorited for about a year now. Just now actually doing something with it.

You have ABS?!? Plus those stainless lines I have look a lot prettier on my shelf than hidden and dirty under the car. :facepalm:

I'm thinking the mushy has more to do with difficulty bleeding the brakes with the ABS system. Pretty common problem/headache.

I think my K1's are 38 offset did they make them with more offset or something? the only way mine would hit is if I put balancing tape weights in the wrong spot.

Same offset as mine. Like I said, it may be fiddling with the spacers. These calipers might be shimmed out just a touch too far on the radial bolts.

You need to do a 80's computer programming montage where you do all sorts of crazy computer modeling to an upbeat sountrack

Bob: got any write up on 929 MC ? I've been to parts stores a few time, never could get the right parts. my brakes has always been mushy.

I better start clean up my car for MRLS. Bob is bringing his monster !!

Some info buried in this thread. Pictures about post #36

Some interesting brake information (tech!) - Page 2 - MX-5 Miata Forum

Basically you need a booster from a later model Miata that came with the bigger sport brakes, a 1” 929 Master cylinder, and you need to redo some hard lines by the Master cylinder. I haven’t figured out the difference between the ABS and non ABS 929 MC it might be that one has 2 front brake ports in it like my stock miata one did. The 929 one I used only had 1 outlet for front brakes and 1 outlet for rear brakes and I had to add a T to the front brakes. A 10mmX1 tap with a modified tip can be used to change an SAE 3/8" inverted flare T into a metric inverted flare T. dosnt seem to be any metric T's avalable and this is much esyer to do than flaring new hard lines.

Bob