psreynol

Hello, I just got a well set up 99 Miata. It was built as a drift car and it has pretty much all the bolt on supporting mods.

I do road track events most 20 30 minute sessions. sometimes an hour session, sometimes until I run out of fuel.

my question is about cooling. I have the Koyo aluminum radiator but from what ive read it may not be enough. should I spend the money on the track speed unit?

what about the coolant reroute kit. I understand what it does but I'm not sure if it necessary if I go with a much bigger radiator.

If I can only buy one now, what should I get? the coolant reroute kit or the new bigger core from trackspeed or FM?

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

I would think a coolant reroute is almost manditory on a track car. As for a bigger radiator, I'd suspect that's going to depend a lot on your individual setup (turbo, psi, ducting, undertray, etc), the track, and ambient temps.

psreynol

ok, I dont street this car so I have no idea how bad the temp issues really are. do you track your car? can you get through a session with your set up. mine is a no electronics Flyin Miata stage II turbo kit, GT2560R and right now it runs 11.5 psi at wot in 3rd.


why do you have a 95 bottom end? I assume it is stronger or something.

Boost Joose

I would say to do the coolant reroute since you already have a somewhat upgraded raidiator and see how things go. Add some watter wetter or Amsoil coolant boost to aid with cooling. If you look around you can do one for under $100. I would say he has a 95 bottom end because he blew his 99....and he found a 95 for cheap.

psreynol

sorry for my noobness, when you say I can do a reroute for 100 is there a diy around or are you speaking in terms of finding one used.

Boost Joose

Just look for some diy reroutes on here. You tube has one for an 01 I believe. Tons of different option, just depends in what you want.

psreynol

right on, Ill look into it. I would rather not spend the cash right now, have a fair amount of stuff to buy

psreynol

I decided to buy the reroute because I have lots of work to do on this car and need to get to the track! also the DYI I saw was not a full reroute, kinda a hybrid so with the cost of track time I may as get the car set up as right.

imput1234

iTrader: (3)

just watch your temps.

oil cooler will be good.

if you run powersteering, get a power steering cooler.

ducting helps a lot too,

but really drive and upgrade as necessary.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Tell us more about your super sweet drift car.

psreynol

Yeah this car was for sale for some time. its not that popular in the drift scene, so far from a dd car, owner was sensitive about who he sold it to? wanted a drift guy or road race only. I was looking for a new track car after I got rid of my 944 and found this miata. I did not know much about miatas but I started researching the parts on it and everything is pretty high quality stuff. Obviously some of the parts are more jdm then what I would choose and it has a little damage from being the most slammed car Ive ever seen but hey, that is easy to fix. i've pretty much fixed all the little stuff and next week I will start on the rest.

I have about a month to do the following:

mount new track tires.
install M-Tuned coolant reroute and install larger radiator
install cooler sandwich adapter lines thermo and core, route lines accommodate larger core if needed
remove and replace turbo manafold stud with inconel stage 8
install new heat resistant sleeve on coolant lines
install FM heat sheild for turbo
roll the ---- out of the rear fenders

so I guess I should post a list of parts on the car so you can get an idea.

Engine
Flyin Miata stage II turbo kit, GT2560R
Flyin Miata intercooler upgrade
RC Automotive 550cc injectors
AMS Custom downpipe and exhaust
TF straight pipe
HKS blow off valve
Mazdaspeed motor mounts
Koyo radiator aluminum radiator
HKS radiator cap
Flyin Miata big electronic fans kit
Electronics
Electromotive TECII standalone (Vishnu Performance PEMS)
blitz add on sensor wire harness
AEM UEGO wideband
BLITZ Uras D1-spec SBC-ID and Power Meter I-D ($290)
Omori boost gauge
Greddy JDM water temp gauge
BLITZ turbo timer
blitz egt probe
Drivetrain
ACT organic disc clutch
Flyin Miata lightweight flywheel
95 transmission
Cusco RS 1.5 way LSD
Mazdaspeed differential bushings
RS Aizawa differential bushing spacers
01 spot welded rear subframe (stronger)
Suspension/Brakes/wheels
STANCE AL+ coilovers with SWIFT springs 8k/6k W/ custom perch
RS Aizawa 22 piece pillow ball bushing set
RP Speed tie rods
Baer pillow tie rod end
Fender braces
JIC front strut bar
Racing Beat tubular front sway bar
Racing Beat solid rear sway bar
Racing Beat RLCA brace
Short adjustable pillowball endlinks/ uplinks
Custom extended RUCA
good-win-racing front and rear wilwood brake kit
front and rear stainless brake lines
Wilwood type E front track pads
Hawk HP+ rear pads
wheels 15x8 +0 Rota Grid V
195/50 Starspec F / DZ101 R
RAYS aluminum light weight lugnuts (red)
Interior
Bride seat rails
Bride Zeta I seat
Daikei BOSS hub wheel adapter
Personal 330mm Neo Grinta steering wheel
Mazdaspeed e-brake handle
Cusco spin on e-brake lock delete
Mazdaspeed shift ****
Blitza/Uras fire extinguisher
Harddog Hardcore single diagnol roll bar
4 point harness
short shifter (brand unknown)
Exterior
hardtop
OEM optional front lip
OEM optional sideskirts
OEM optional rear mudguards
OEM optional rear spoiler
OEM hardtop ( with rear defrost)
Garage Vary eyelids (black)
Garage Vary canards ( red)
front tow hook ( red)

everyone hates on drifters but I don't really care that it was a drift car. they have have fun with their cars and do some crazy mods so whatever. I happen to like working on improving lap times, it is all that matters to me from a hobby car stand point. some people like to do body stuff, some like stereos, whatever all i know is the drifters seem to have a lot of fun with their cars so good for them, I even told the PO that perhaps I will bring the car back and do a drift event. worse case it is a afternoon playing with cars that I will not do again. I'm sure I would meet some interesting people so i'm all for it... if I have time and money and no road track stuff going on. worst case i might learn some additional car control technicians. example a clutch kick is awesome for car control in snow or dirt conditions.

so how do I post a pic? it is not hosted

psreynol

oh I had it on a dyno prior to the sale and it did three runs between 244 and 248 wheel at 11psi.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Duct the heat exchanges, thendo the reroute, then buy the TSE radiator. You will probably need all three, you definitely need a ducted oil cooler.

bellwilliam

iTrader: (1)

Before u head up to track

1. Buy some real brake pads.
2. Remove the 4 points harness, unless it is schroth ASM, it is illegal to run.
3. Install stock rear sway bar

Cosworth16v

This is Rob's old car right? This car has been flogged on the track pretty regularly for years now, I assume you asked phil or whoever the previous owner was about the temps and when to watch out? Obv sustained running will be a little different.

+1 for reroute and ducting the radiator / oil cooler then seeing where you're at.
+1 for changing the rear pads, that setup is to make the ebrake more effective for initiating, a different kind of balance.

Good luck, looking forward to seeing this car's next iteration.

psreynol

well yes this is robs car, ha funny small world. yeah I just copy pasted the original build list someone asked about my "super sweet drift car" . well in my mind it is a super sweet drift car and now it is going to be a super sweet track day car.

so far Ive ordered the following:
Stance coilover front perrch for rear upper stut mount
stock rear upper control arms
airbag cover plate
FM turbo heat shield
Stage 8 hardware inconel turbo stud and lock washer kit
oil temp gauge, temp sender, oil pressure duel sender -vdo vision series
Crow 2" 6-Way Dual Anti-Submarine Belt
Track Speed Radiator
M tuned coolant reroute kit
Resbond- or some type of heat proof locktite- new downpipe hardware -034
heat sleeve for coolant lines into firewall, turbo oil return ,turbo coolant
front and rear bumper mounts , and under cover support
225 45 15 nitto nt01 tires

psreynol

oh I did a search and found a car show picture of phils. more or less this is what it looks like now.

http://yuta-akaishi.blogspot.com/201...-for-sale.html


so do most people run a stock rear sway bar? my friend has several parts cars so should not be a issue and I would love to sell off some stuff I don't need, want.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Nice looking ride. Good component list.

mx5-kiwi

What a great looking car!

Congratulations, you should have a ball.

Post the mods etc you do, I am upgrading my car for more track orientated running and don't know half of what these guys say to do (they have been here for ages so "Heat Exchanger Ducting", "stage 8 hardware with inconel wring and resbond".....means everything to them and nothing to me (I know what they mean just not how they do it...)

Seeing you go through this would help me and maybe other newbies that may also struggle with trawling the 1000's of posts when searching....like id (man have I spent too much time reading here the past few months )

psreynol

thanks for the complement! it can be tough to figure out what needs to be done for track use especially on a car not intended to have a turbo. luckily for me I've set up several other turbo cars for the track so I kinda know the basics and what research. plus my car has alot of good parts on it so should make a solid platform.

just search the terms you dont understand and it will be clear. the Heat exchanger ducting is basically sealing up and managing air flow to the core, the radiator, intercooler, and oil cooler however the oil cooler is not as critical if you use a large enough core.

the respond is basically a heat proof lock tite. it is used to keep the turbo manafold studs in place. our cars have a issue with studs getting loose and that means power loss and damage to under hood components.

i dont know what youve done to your car or your tack experience but the best thing you can do is make sure the car is in good running shape before you start to mod it or turbo it.