Finally was able to confirm today that these would also work for 1.6 rear rotors if milled down to 123mm OD. Just FYI.

Sweet - thanks for checking!

Attachment 229828

It was easier and quicker than I thought. OSHA approved, right?

:rofl: :party:

Question about the dimensions on the drawing...................................Attachment 220605

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9bdb22d377.png

threads exposed- none
face- no, bore C's face
diameter- read the note

If I read the note and was completely clear on how it was done,would I be wasting your time for clarification?


It says "at least .250 deep,or all the way to face". WTH?

Your choice. Pick one. Flip a coin. Online random generator. Bet on the diameter of hustlers dildo.

These survived their first track day on my TTE car at ViR. No issues to report!

Another nefty thing about these hubs.....when you're replacing a bearing, the inside race can be pressed off since there is a lip present. Oem miata hubs don't have a lip to access on this part of the bearing.

Attachment 229827

timken 510003

Another plus! Usually, I'd just change the hub and bearing because I always hack up the hub trying to get the race off... like the 1st couple images I posted. Awesomeness
you need to replace the spacer? I've got bunches extra somewhere

Hey all, here is a proper drawing for the DIYers, no hate to the MS paint version though!

Reusing the hub, even these, gets a big "meh" from me. The OEM hubs have been shown to have a finite service life, somewhere in the 125-150hr range before failure becomes probable. I generally suggest pulling them at the 50-75hr mark, or every 12-18 events (HPDE). In practice, I do mine once a year. Even with the MR2 hubs, I wouldn't want to go much further than 100-120hrs or so, so every 2 years. If the bearings last that long, and they should, then you would just 2x your normal interval and replace both at the same time.

Yea, but what about Emilio?

Don't know, don't care.

Started my instal this afternoon, and I am having difficulty getting the stub axle far enough into the hub for the nut to engage. Can use large hammer, but that may not be the best way ...

Any helpful hints on this step would be appreciated. Car is 04 MSM, but as far as I am aware the only difference to an NB is at the Diff end of the driveshaft.

Thanks all!

Tapping the hub onto the splines will be fine, they're a press fit so they may need a little encouragement to get the nut threading. I'd just put a wood block or something soft between the hammer and the hub. Also, don't forget the spacers, 1mm for the bearing and the 3/8" for under the axle nut!

Now that it appear that the code has been cracked on "good" vs. "bad" OEM style hubs, are we still feeling like these are a significant improvement over "good" OEM?

Maybe I missed it, but I didn't know there was a good vs bad OEM rear hub design. Are you referring to OEM front hub designs mayhaps?

You will need a rubber mallet, tight is good with splines. Also make sure the axle splines are clean and it never hurts to use anti-seize on them, I actually highly recommend it for future removal.

Wrong thread, bro.

Upon further review, you're correct. The SM Weekend of Failure thread is about front hubs, and these are rear. Carry on then.

Update on my non-fitting hub:

The hub had a small dag or something in/on the spline preventing full travel of the shaft, no amount of shoving and tapping would convince the shaft to go more than 2/3rds of the way in. This was fixed with a light filing of the bore and the splines of the hub, a good clean and re-greasing.