NA / NB engine drop mounts
Thought that some of you guys would be happy to know that we're working on engine drop mounts for NA / NB.
Should drop the engine right around 1/2"-9/16" which sets the oil pan right about flush with the bottom of the subframe, we'll have them available in the standard durometers of 70A, 88A and 95A.
PT racers will be happy to know that this is a ZERO points mod
Should have pics of the prototype in the next couple of days.
Should drop the engine right around 1/2"-9/16" which sets the oil pan right about flush with the bottom of the subframe, we'll have them available in the standard durometers of 70A, 88A and 95A.
PT racers will be happy to know that this is a ZERO points mod

Should have pics of the prototype in the next couple of days.
the low level of the oil pan was the reason they make spacers to raise it up. broken oil pans on the low cars lends to the pan being low. Do you have stock mounts on yours right now?
I am just confused, not trying to knock what you are doing at all. possibly different on the NB?
I am just confused, not trying to knock what you are doing at all. possibly different on the NB?
Yes.
We used the stock mounts as a base line, then yanked them out and fabricate our own.
Not sure if there's a difference on the NB, but we typically wouldn't advertise fitment of a part before we had a chance to verify it.
I have seen slammed / stanced Miatas breaking oil pans, never seen one that actually broke on track or autox...
We used the stock mounts as a base line, then yanked them out and fabricate our own.
Not sure if there's a difference on the NB, but we typically wouldn't advertise fitment of a part before we had a chance to verify it.
I have seen slammed / stanced Miatas breaking oil pans, never seen one that actually broke on track or autox...
First look at our prototype drop mounts -

This is the low mount standard 70A bushing version, actual production version will be slightly changed because we actually found more weight to remove.
The mounts will be powder coated in the same pearl Gunmetal Gray shown in the pic and we're more than likely to stick with the Black bushings (for all versions).
Driver side installed -

Passenger side installed -

We're also working on another version of the mounts which will lower NVH (most common complaint), pics coming soon.
The mounts are going to be available to order within the next 2-3 weeks, final pricing TBA soon.

This is the low mount standard 70A bushing version, actual production version will be slightly changed because we actually found more weight to remove.
The mounts will be powder coated in the same pearl Gunmetal Gray shown in the pic and we're more than likely to stick with the Black bushings (for all versions).
Driver side installed -

Passenger side installed -

We're also working on another version of the mounts which will lower NVH (most common complaint), pics coming soon.
The mounts are going to be available to order within the next 2-3 weeks, final pricing TBA soon.
That's pretty cool. Should also help keep 3rd and 4th in the right place!
I suspect if you have an oil pan that's too low, it's because of worn out OEM engine mounts. I've never pulled a set out of an older car that wasn't collapsed/cracked.
I suspect if you have an oil pan that's too low, it's because of worn out OEM engine mounts. I've never pulled a set out of an older car that wasn't collapsed/cracked.
I've had my motor lowered for years now. but I just slotted the engine mounts to do it. This is a better solution. I also have the engine moved back now but that requires a lot more modification including shortened drive shaft, PPF, modified hole in the tunnel for the shift turrent, modified center console, and low profile back of head stuff to avoid modifying the firewall.
Yeah, moving the engine back in itself is not that big of a deal, simple repositioning of the mounting bracket flange will easily take care of that part.
It's the _many_ other pieces that have to be customized in order to accommodate the repositioned engine that cause all the headache...
At any rate, this provides the community with an easy bolt in solution that can be installed quickly.
It's the _many_ other pieces that have to be customized in order to accommodate the repositioned engine that cause all the headache...
At any rate, this provides the community with an easy bolt in solution that can be installed quickly.
the pinion angle is set by the PPF these mounts wont change it. you get more change in pinion angle than 1/4 degree by either pushing the tail of the transmission up or letting it sag down as you tighten the PPF bolts.
Well aware of it, I was commenting about the relative change if you kept everything tight as you would do if you were just replacing the motor mounts themselves, a half inch drop nets a quarter degree difference at the pinion.
In reality you are just rotating the whole drive train about the rear diff mounts pinion angles are unchanged.
Indeed, and that's what make the pinion angle change the "important" measurement... seeing that the change is only a quarter of a degree makes the measurement rather unimportant
So forgive me if i'm missing the obvious here, but is the only (or main at least) benefit here a lower CG? I've been tracking an S197 mustang for the past few years and just recently swapped to an NB so i'm just reading and learning all i can. Not sure if this is fixing a miata specific issue of some sort i'm not aware of, or if its just better CG. Thanks.
The drop mounts are meant to lower the CoG, but the design offers more than just that.
One of the most common issues you'll run into while driving hard is that the OEM motor mounts (and the replacement "competition" mounts from Mazda) allow the engine to move A LOT.
This in turn causes the engine to torque over so much that when you're trying to shift, the next gear is just not there, causing you to miss the shift you're going for.
By stiffening the mounts you're keeping the motor and trans where they should be, and with the added benefit of lower CoG, it's a win-win situation
One of the most common issues you'll run into while driving hard is that the OEM motor mounts (and the replacement "competition" mounts from Mazda) allow the engine to move A LOT.
This in turn causes the engine to torque over so much that when you're trying to shift, the next gear is just not there, causing you to miss the shift you're going for.
By stiffening the mounts you're keeping the motor and trans where they should be, and with the added benefit of lower CoG, it's a win-win situation





