Copy-paste my reply from the other thread -
There's a break in period of a few hundreds of miles.
During that period NVH will be higher than normal, so it is to be expected.

 

^These were my previous mounts that I pulled out. Holy hell, no wonder I was having problems shifting into 3rd on the track.

Replaced them with BBFW "Street" mounts at standard height.. On first engine ignition, the vibrations scared me, it sounded like my car was tumbling in a barrel of rocks. Once it settled to idle at ~850 RPM, the car has some noticeable vibrations, but the car didn't rattle like a bird cage, it was actually quite pleasant and not bad in my opinion. On the initial clutch grab at around ~1500 RPM, the car shook and vibrated the most, but once the clutch was in, it was pretty fine. Once the car was past 3000RPM, all the rattling settled down and drove almost stock, but you could definitely tell that there are some extra vibrations in the whole entire car, but not bad at all! I'm not worried about these vibrations at all, as this isn't my daily driver. I was honestly expecting MORE vibrations and shaking.

Now onto the driving feel. The engine movement is completely gone. The whole front of the car feels like one solid big piece. This was the very first thing I noticed when I rolled out of the driveway. VERY awesome. Next, I noticed that my shifter wasn't moving around as much anymore. With my stock broken mounts, I could feel my shifter rock side to side often. All the movement is gone. Shifts became much smoother. I didn't even realize how damn notchy the shifter was before, now it goes into every gear like butter!

I can't wait to go back to the track and see how much better it feels.

 

Much of the initial NVH will go away after the mounts are broken in, typically a few hundreds of miles later.
Glad you like them, they are a joy to drive around the track

 

I got the new drop mounts installed yesterday. No clearance issues with the lower motor height. If anything I gained space from header to floor pan. Fit was good. I like the weight savings measures that were taken during fabrication. Top notch workmenship. If I have a complaint it's the powder coating. I hate it on the bolting surface of things. I would have preferred bare or painted.

I opted to try the 95 durometer inserts. Compared to the 70's I had in my AWR mounts they are not that bad. I feel a bit more high frequency vibration but my mirrors remain clear. Not a dramatic change. I'll need to get some seat time to determine if the decision was a wise one.

Will I feel the benefits of a 1/2" lower motor? Who knows but the concept is solid.

 

Another update!

I've been driving on these motor mounts for about 500 street miles, most of the vibrations have settled, but I've noticed my rearview mirror, hood, and front license plate vibrate when at idle. This isn't a big deal for me.
Last week, I was at Laguna Seca for a trackday. Oh god, the difference in shifting was amazing, completely smooth and buttery every time.
After reviewing my gopro footage from my previous trackdays, I noticed that my shift **** stopped moving back and forth with these new mounts! Totally satisfied and happy with these.

Videos for those that are interested:

Old mounts:

BBFW mounts:

 

Just put these in this weekend (street version/stock height), I was a bit surprised at how much NVH there was initially but even after only 50 miles its calmed down quite a bit.
All my gauges are dancing around a little bit now, assuming its from the vibration, and kind of hoping it'll go away as they break in. Anyone have this issue?

Just went for a drive in the mountains, shifting feels amazing now.

 

My Tach bounces around, but I just figured it's because of my car being 25 years old.

 

mostly because na

 

Yeah every NA I've had does it, never had my temp and oil gauge bounce around though.

Oh well, old car ****. Checked all the grounds so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

Add a zero to that mile count and your mounts will calm down a good bit more

 

I was able to fix the tach in my NA pretty easily.

 

Any feedback on a VVT engine in a NA with the drop mounts? Mainly concerning the oil pan, I know the VVT oil pan has different baffles but not really sure if it is much different for dimensions on the outside?

 

You're A okay to use the mounts with the VVT engine.

 

OK thanks, I will check clearance as is with the current engine and if looks good am planning to order a pair of the drop mounts as they look to be really well built. Thank you.

 

Sounds like I better measure everything tonight after work and order asap. Thanks for the heads up!

 

Ordered a set of the drop mounts, hopefully they work out will post back.
Can't really take measurements because after closer inspection one of the mounts is currently sagging/ripped.

 

in the same boat, just bought the last pair in stock from flyin miata to drop a vvt in my NA6. im adding an M45 so am hunting hood clearance, but didnt measure anything

 

Edit: just went through this thread, if the sump lines up with the bottom of the subframe then should be drop mounts?

-----------------

Can some mount dimensions be published to differentiate between the drop mounts and standard height mounts please?

I ordered the drop mounts and installed today. The sump hasn't dropped relative to the subframe so it's got me wondering.

 

Yes, the drop mounts would line up the sump with the bottom of the subframe.
There's one dead visual giveaway that you can always tell between the drop mounts and the standard height mounts (regardless of which engine they are made for) -


Standard height


Drop mounts

 

Thanks so much for the info. I have the drop mounts then.

Interesting though as the OEM mounts I was using placed the sump at a very similar height relative to the subframe. Perhaps influenced by the lack of the bottom mounting cups and aged rubber?

​​​​​​The mounts are in fact quite rigid (Shake test as per video), keen to put some mileage on these and see how well they break in.