Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Interesting. I specifically switched away from Hawk DTC60 in the front because of chunking. That and the non availability of proper rear sport pads, having to use non-sport pads, having therefore a different wear area on the rear rotor, all that and the fact the rear pads failed on me.

So we have several different first hand accounts of people moving away from different pads to another because of chunking, and it's all the same group of pads. Looking at sixshooter's photo, I get way more wear out of my front Cobalts iirc before I hit the rivets. I will monitor my current set and report back when I do hit the rivets with pics and measurements. Six how old is that photo?

I've noticed that when I compress the pistons all the way in, and put in new Cobalts, there's quite a bit of play. The next time I order I'm going to ask for 13.5mm instead of 12.5 mm. They can make the pad to whatever thickness you want if you let them know.

TWLGHTZN

Do they not still offer the pre-bedded option? Beside the point I guess if you're happy with Cobalt.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Pic was taken 1/9/16. Pads would have been purchased in the fall of '15.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

I bought the pre-bedded pads, that was not the problem. Getting the proper heat into the pads and the rotor to lay down the initial transfer layer was the problem. If the carbotech transfer layer isn't laid down properly, the pads will eat themselves up in short order. As in, a single track day short order. In miata money, that's expensive. 949 has pictures of rotors with a proper transfer layer vs ones that are not proper.

I don't want anyone to think I'm bashing Carbotechs, btw. I used them for years and liked them. I would continue to use them but for my stated inability to get them to bed to my wilwood rotors given the urban constraints I have. I would recommend them to anyone who can properly bed their rotors. Properly bedded the Carbotechs will give longer pad life and can be used on the street without destroying the rotors and pads if one doesn't mind the squeals and the dust. I would also recommend Cobalts. Not the same pad life, but not finicky at all. Reliable, easy to modulate, don't care about transfer layers.

z31maniac

Also, nice thing about the Carbotech's is the dust won't mess with the finish on the wheels.

I did one track day where the first few sessions were wet, so wet brake dust dried on the wheels and sat there for 8 months until I could get a different engine in the car and take it back out.

Dust washed right off the wheels and didn't damage the finish.

DeerHunter

I think if the dust gets both wet and hot (e.g. track day in the wet) the resulting dust paste will bake onto the wheel. It's happened to me with two sets of wheels now - perhaps three, but the third set is black so I don't notice as much. I think I'll need a grinder wheel to remove the residue. XP12s in front.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Happened to me once as well. You may have success with a plastic scrubbie. I always wash my wheels that night or the next day, now, for a few reasons. 1, clean wheels. 2, I inspect them as I do this. 3, they get stored inside, so they need to be clean.

Steve Dallas

Carbotech pad dust has damaged the paint on my Advanti rims. It is nowhere near as bad as what Hawk pads did to past rims, but it is there. Best to clean them after every track day if you are worried about it.

z31maniac

Wow, that sucks. I never had that issue. Perhaps it was just 1.6 with Wilwoods at all for corners on a relatively momentum track, I just wasn't getting enough heat in the brakes to really get the wheels hot.

At Hallett in a 1.6 there is only 1 really hard braking event per lap.

psreynol

lots of interesting info here. I made some adjustments on my car and found the results to be positive enough to justify another set of dtc-60 front and rear. I'm sure another pad might be better but I've been on this ride before and spending a much of of money on pads only to discover they suck for me is not an immediate priority. I believe with further adjustments to the car, and a price a tick over $200 for front and rear pads is enough to continue down this road a bit further. the fundamentals are there, feel, pad wear, price are all good. for now I blame excessive front bias and no suspension corner balance, perhaps overly firm front shock damping for my issues. the dust is not THAT bad, way better compared to other materials. my advise is to use a spray on wheel wax, brake dust repellent to protect the wheels. it is super easy to use and adds a layer of protection. if my wheels cost $1000 each I might be a little more concerned about finish. I honestly might consider powder coating the wheels brake dust gray and just avoid the pending doom of cleaning my wheels after every event. I think a deep dark gray might be decent look. Konig for one, has such a color.

mx5-kiwi

I also run 11.75" carbotech / G-loc pads and have no problem bedding them in / heating them up on the road. Mainly because I extend my 3-4 70-10 stops with both brake and accelerator.

Get the pads hot and slightly stinky (carefully) and consider it done.

My issue with G-locs is that the inner curve of the (edit) PAD isn't cut to suit the rotor so have to use a bench mounted belt sander to create the inner curve. I ruined a set of rotors and had **** braking another time before i realized the uncut inner curve was leaving the mountain behind after wearing away the pad surface and causing heavy dragging on the outer edge of the rotor.

Reluctant to change but is just a hassle to do (not to mention unhealthy brake dust going everywhere while sanding). Also had the dry/wet/dry brake dust bake in to the corners of advantis too... bloody annoying and VERY hard to remove (scotchbrite and elbow grease mostly worked).