ericwh

iTrader: (1)

So, here I have some data from this past weekend at VIR. The green lines are myself (1.6l with 5spd 4.3 rear end) the blue lines are someone else (1.8l with 5spd, 4.1 rear end).

Based on this data and the attached gear speed charts (I believe these are the ratios available from Mazda Motorsports), which rear end would be the best choice for this track and why?

ericwh

iTrader: (1)

Were my images not working? Is that why no one replied? Here's the rest, don't know what happened...

It also appears there is a 4.78 from kia sportage that would work and is available cheap on ebay? So, 4.78:

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

4.44 with 6speed FTW.

4.875 with a 5speed would be a little short on longer tracks with some power, but our tracks are tight, so it works for me.

ericwh

iTrader: (1)

6 spd is not an option for future classing. I was thinking 4.8 would run out of gear exiting T1.

4.77 might be pretty close to running out of gear in the same spot but I think I might give it a shot.

I'm going to get data on the other track in our region and see what the speeds look like there.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

NASA PT, I'm assuming? 4.875s are what you want but they are all but unobtainable now. 4.78s are virtually the same thing and available cheap (new or used, I paid $300 for my brand new set).

a 7k limiter is a bit of a boon with the 4.78s. You'll end up in 5th more than you'd like, with at least one 3-4-3 shift. The 4.78s get good when you can lift the rev limiter to the 8000-8200rpm range, which gives you the same in-gear speed as 4.30s but lifts the RPMs everywhere. Essentially like adding power to the car.

ericwh

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.

I have a MS so I could change the rev limiter. I found this info by searching (piston speed):

Seems like 8000 RPM would be pushing it... ??

ericwh

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and changing transmission ratios costs points but the diff gears are free?

EDIT: NM confirmed this elsewhere.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

7400 is the safe limit for a stock engine. 8k assumes you've done the required internal mods to spin the motor there. Since you've got a 1.6 chassis, you'll be better off dyno classing and moving to a 1.8L motor if your budget will allow it. Just the swap to a '99 1.8L will give you a huge performance jump, but the real benefit of dyno classing comes when you open the motor and massage, well, everything. I've built some pretty wicked dyno-classed PT motors, and while the days of the pump-gas 145+wtq 2.0L VVT motors are gone, the current rules still allow for a pretty stunning powerband.

ericwh

iTrader: (1)

Why did you just say 99 instead of the vvt motor?

Dunning Kruger Affect

Buy a Kia Sportage 4x4 95-02 front differential. It has the r&p you're looking for.

ericwh

iTrader: (1)

Yah I just got the Kia R&P on ebay...

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Rule changes for 2014 make the 99-00 motors more desirable. That's about all I want to say in the public forum. Feel free to call me at the shop for lots more info.

cucamelsmd15

This right here.

And being a local, I can tell you having done the 4.78 as well as turned thousands of laps at the place, unless youre clearing 160whp or more, you wont be out of gear, Savingtons comments notwithstanding because they are correct.