Yeah, my spot is good for a street car. Track car...scary. You'd need a strong splitter that goes to the subframe to protect it.

 

I used FM's mounting location and cut the undertray to open it up for airflow. I then used a stainless steel chicken wire matrix epoxied to the undertray to prevent stray large debris from hitting. Other than the fact that my gauge seems to still quickly get up to 270F it seems to make sense. It's not going to stop something at a hundred, but I figured nothing is protecting the front of the car from that same occurrence either. The position and even the flap was recommended by the guys at flyin' miata so I assumed they knew what they were talking about. That being said, its not really working well, or at least as well as I would like so I ordered a bracket from setrab and will see if I can figure out how to mount it in front of my radiator.

 

It's not really working well probably because the delta P is working against whatever airflow is under the car.

 

Underneath that section of the car is low pressure, engine bay and behind radiator are higher pressure. There's probably not a lot of air moving through it at all.

 

I think you are right, I just can't imagine with all the time they seem to invest in their research why FM would recommend it if it didn't really help much being there. Hopefully the adapter I bought will be enough to get me something to mount off of the front mount. I also saw another's installation which was inside the passenger side of the bumper where the fog light hole is on my nb2. He said he had great luck there and just used a few simple aluminum or steel straps bent to get it in the right position so if the front mount doesn't seem to work, I'll try there.

 

I have the TDR kit which puts it in the passenger wheel well/bumper area like you are saying and it has worked well for me at least. I ducted to it from the front bumper and have cut fenders to reduce pressure in the wheel well behind the cooler. I don't know why FM put their cooler where they did but like everyone else is saying, that spot wont get you a very good pressure differential across the cooler.

 

FM doesn't build track cars, so their parts are not going to work well for that.

 

I was going to say something similar to this. Not everyone who sells parts understands the theory behind every aspect of a car. That is actually a terrible place to put one because of the lack of Delta P as indicated above

 

It would work better if you were able to reverse your scoop.

 

Here's how I remounted my FM oil cooler setup. I ended up finding a generic bracket from Amazon that mounted to the top of the setrab oil cooler. Then made my hot custom brackets. Then lengthened the AN lines. Note that I also prefilled the oil cooler and even the lines during the install to prevent a moment of oil starvation when the system kicks on. We'll see if this keeps things in check.

 

^
I recommend that you replace those oil hoses with non-braided ones before they do too much damage.
They're going to easily saw through that zip-tie and their vibration will saw through everything they contact (I've seen examples of them sawing through intake pipes before the owner even noticed it was an issue).
If you're going to use braided hoses, they must be fastened securely and NOT rub ANYTHING.
Braided hoses are only good for bling and yours will be hidden from view so get rid of them, they'll just cause you grief.

Other thoughts:

It looks like the oil cooler is just sitting on top of the intercooler.
This is not good because movement/vibration of the intercooler will stress your DIY bracket and potentially break it.
The intercooler looks like it has welded tabs to fix it to the chassis frame but the oil cooler bracket is fixed to a different point so they will vibrate at different rates.
At least try and get some clearance between them (or get some mount points welded to the top of the intercooler and only mount it there, deleting your DIY bracket).

While the front bumper is off, consider tapping the intercooler cold-side tank for the AIT sensor, that's one of the the best places for it to help avoid heat-soak..

You've got a lot of stuff in front of the radiator, keep careful tabs on your coolant temperature, you may not be getting enough cool air flow through the radiator..

If you've replaced the FM 8-AN fittings+hoses with 10-AN fittings, as recommended by MT.net, GOOD - if not do so when you replace the braided hoses, your oil cooler will be much more effective.

Also, what did you drop the intercooler on?

 

Interesting, I'll definitely keep an eye out. I had a similar setup when they were shorter with zip ties to hold them back from running into other lines I have. Maybe I'll just add more old rubber hose in the spot where I'm using the zip ties to hold the cables neatly. Odd, to protect the zip ties from the cable! Not pictured here is a bunch of shrouding I added after and I'm also running vented hood, water, reroute, etc. My last track day I couldn't keep temps over 185 (it was a 50F day), so I'm hoping its in a good spot.

There's about 2mm of clearance between the oil cooler and the intercooler. I also added some dynamat in the evident of incidental contact. I have an IAT on the piping just after the intercooler. Is that not a good location? My intercooler I think is really over sized for my abilities/setup. I rarely get above 100 to 105, even on the hottest of days.

 

Yes, that's a good IAT sensor location.

 

Few thoughts;
I "Really prefer" #10 lines for oil, especially long runs.
Braided stainless lines have their place(not just bling). Like inside the cockpit where the much greater burst strength is welcome, or needed. NASA Regs. Say an Accusump.
Braided lines will saw through important things, always at the wrong time. Think a coolant hose in turn 17?
If you can maintain water temps with AC condenser in place you're doing something correct. Almost seems too low?
How are you getting that low an intercooler temp on hot Florida days making any boost?
With a little heat you can mold your inner fender cover to route air up in a smooth transition to prevent separation.
Foam & aluminum duct tape are your friends for sealing top and sides of radiator.

 

A couple more questions:

1. Any one recommend over filling oil to prevent possible oil starvation?
2. Weight recommendations? I'm using 20w-50 VR1 synthetic. Cold idle oil pressure is like 60psi, hot is like 15/20psi according to my gauge.
3. Recommendation for oil temp sensor location? FM recommended the oil pan. I used to have my sensor on the same line as the feed line to the turbo (from the outlet to the stock oil pressure sender). It seems to read much cooler than it used to and so I'm a bit concerned it is a false positive.

 

1. Yes. I would generally run a half to 1 qt extra on track.

2. That's a good idle pressure and decent oil. Everyone will have a favorite brand but that oil is fine.

3. I used a sandwich plate behind the oil filter. It was threaded for a temp sensor. I did not want the extra weight on a tee coming off of the block and the associated vibration failures.

 

I currently run HR6 driven oil (high zinc synth 10w-40). I may go with the 20-50 VR1 next time.

I have a temp sensor on either side of my oil cooler with a toggle to switch between the sensors. The 'cold' side is in the oil filter housing mounted on my fender. Hot side is in a T fitting (for my oil primer!) between the pump and the cooler.

Running extra oil...hmmm I dunno. How far below the crank is oil level in a miata?

 

Yeah, my racecar engine builder made another mark on the dipstick on both of the builds he did for me, probably a cm up? And that did not stop the oil light flashing under brakes at one point (only), solved with an accusump.

 

are you still making these? If so do they work on NB1 cars too? Very interested.

 

I was looking at the mishimoto oil cooler, as it comes with a nice flange/bracket setup under the car. I am not too worried about the airflow as the car will have vented hood/fenders. I however have found a kit that goes into the foglight and radiator area:

https://leroyengineering.com/product...oil-cooler-kit

Opinions on this kit? I have emailed them and they are waiting on the supplier before starting orders again. Looks good, comes with a cooler guard.