which pad do I want?
#103
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I absolutely destroyed a set of XP10 front pads at Texas World Speedway yesterday. Right now I am debating whether to get the cobalt friction or the Hawk 60s. I'm leaning towards the cobalts, just to **** off Hustler.
I saw Hustler's pads yesterday first hand. They look great except for all of the blood.
I absolutely destroyed a set of XP10 front pads at Texas World Speedway yesterday. Right now I am debating whether to get the cobalt friction or the Hawk 60s. I'm leaning towards the cobalts, just to **** off Hustler.
I saw Hustler's pads yesterday first hand. They look great except for all of the blood.
My XP12's lasted 2 days at Hallett and tapered really bad in the Sport brakes, the Hawk blues did not taper in the caliper.
#104
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I run the xr2's in the front and like the way they feel, they seem to wear well too, Im running the xr4 in the rear, I may try the xr3 next time, not that I have any problems with the 4s in back but I could use less bias with the 3s and have more adjustment, Ill let everyone know how that set up works soon.
#107
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Yeah LOL don't throw money at the car trying to get contingency. That is a losing battle, like gambling for casino comps. It is icing if you are going to do it anyway.
I'm going for a quick short-term fix with an XP12 upgrade, new corrado rotors, and adding ducting. I had a good talk yesterday with Emilio and he thinks this will work well enough for now with the ducting being the key change; I have no ducting now but it has been bumped up to the top of the to-do list.
This is just to get me through the next few months. Eventually I really should get a proper BBK.
I'm going for a quick short-term fix with an XP12 upgrade, new corrado rotors, and adding ducting. I had a good talk yesterday with Emilio and he thinks this will work well enough for now with the ducting being the key change; I have no ducting now but it has been bumped up to the top of the to-do list.
This is just to get me through the next few months. Eventually I really should get a proper BBK.
#109
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I think it was a combination of track miles and getting very, very hot with no ducting. According to Emilio, and what I have read/heard, the operating temperature has a big impact on the pad longevity. I cannot tell you for sure what the track hours are but I would guess less than three. And I was not braking at threshold limit.
#110
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ZXTX overheated the rotors/pads. Again I have 6+ days on my Corrado rotors and DTC-60's and the rotors and pads usually look great. Overheat a pad and it will look like ZXTX stuff.
#111
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Well I did it again. I grooved another set of rotors at Harris Hill yesterday.
I added brake ducting over the weekend to keep things cooler. I replaced the front brakes with new XP12 pads and new Corrado rotors. I kept the same rotors and XP8s in the rear. I bedded the pads carefully at the track per Carbotech's procedure and visually verified the bluish looking transfer layer on the disks after bedding. I let them cool down for about an hour in cool, windy weather. Then I went back out for two separate sessions. After about 20-25 laps the rotors are heavily grooved again like the first set. The front pads are about a third to half gone. The rears still look good.
I adjusted the brake bias while out on the track (cockpit adjuster ****) until I had instability and rear lockup entering a corner, then I backed off a bit. So I think I have about as much load on the rear as it can stand.
I think I need more substantial brakes. They will pay for themselves since $200 in rotors and brake pads for every other track day will add up very quickly. I really only think I need them for the front. The rears are wearing just fine.
I added brake ducting over the weekend to keep things cooler. I replaced the front brakes with new XP12 pads and new Corrado rotors. I kept the same rotors and XP8s in the rear. I bedded the pads carefully at the track per Carbotech's procedure and visually verified the bluish looking transfer layer on the disks after bedding. I let them cool down for about an hour in cool, windy weather. Then I went back out for two separate sessions. After about 20-25 laps the rotors are heavily grooved again like the first set. The front pads are about a third to half gone. The rears still look good.
I adjusted the brake bias while out on the track (cockpit adjuster ****) until I had instability and rear lockup entering a corner, then I backed off a bit. So I think I have about as much load on the rear as it can stand.
I think I need more substantial brakes. They will pay for themselves since $200 in rotors and brake pads for every other track day will add up very quickly. I really only think I need them for the front. The rears are wearing just fine.
#112
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Try pad like Hawk DTC-60 or Hawk Blue. The Cali boys like Carbotech, I am sold on Hawk pads because my Carbotech's did the same thing yours are doing. I don't like the price of Carbotech, I don't like the feel, the life, and they tapered bad on my sport brakes. The Hawk Blues did not taper.
#113
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I need to try something different since this setup is not going to get me there. It may be relatively cheap to have the rotors turned and try a set of Hawk pads. That or just go with the inevitable TSE or 949 front BBK.
The good news is the car is otherwise solid.
The good news is the car is otherwise solid.
#114
I run the xr2's in the front and like the way they feel, they seem to wear well too, Im running the xr4 in the rear, I may try the xr3 next time, not that I have any problems with the 4s in back but I could use less bias with the 3s and have more adjustment, Ill let everyone know how that set up works soon.
Again these are pads you can slap on the same rotors you use for your street pads when you get to the track don't worry about bedding them in and they work great out of the box never had an issue with Judder inconsistent feel or anything. When you switch back to your street pads the rotors have been cleaned and smoothed and the street pad performance is improved as well having a smooth surface to bed in a new transfer layer with just a bit of normal driving.
Bob
#118
I think it was a combination of track miles and getting very, very hot with no ducting. According to Emilio, and what I have read/heard, the operating temperature has a big impact on the pad longevity. I cannot tell you for sure what the track hours are but I would guess less than three. And I was not braking at threshold limit.
I notice a lot of people run lesser pads in the rear (XP12/10, XP10/8, etc). Is there a specific reason for this? I see NA chassis lock up the fronts all the time, so it seems counter-intuitive to do so. I have an issue w/ mine under braking so I am trying to figure it out.
#120
Bob
Last edited by bbundy; 11-29-2010 at 04:18 PM.