Post your DIY aero pics
07-16-2013, 01:27 AM
#481
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lakewood, CO
Posts: 75
Total Cats: 24
I'm in the middle of building an air dam. Here is how it currently sits:
I'll be fastening a vertical plastic sheet to the front just like you've all seen before with an opening for my radiator but I've got a question about the opening. Should I be ducting the air only to the radiator opening? This makes sense to me so I can make the opening as small as possible and reduce drag but what if I don't? Will that create a high pressure zone above the "splitter" and create more down force before pushing out towards the wheels? Making the ducting doesn't seem like the easiest task but I could probably just bend some aluminum sheet for the bottom and 2 sides and be fairly effective.
I'll be fastening a vertical plastic sheet to the front just like you've all seen before with an opening for my radiator but I've got a question about the opening. Should I be ducting the air only to the radiator opening? This makes sense to me so I can make the opening as small as possible and reduce drag but what if I don't? Will that create a high pressure zone above the "splitter" and create more down force before pushing out towards the wheels? Making the ducting doesn't seem like the easiest task but I could probably just bend some aluminum sheet for the bottom and 2 sides and be fairly effective.
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07-16-2013, 09:23 AM
#482
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, MI
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I've thought a lot about improving overall aero by ducting and channeling air from places you don't want it to places you need more of it (or less lack of it?). It always seemed some large ducts from the trunk floor to the finish panel area would be very helpful and the same principle works for the wheel wells.
Let us know how it works. Tuft tests at the license plate and better yet, manometer results in the wheel well and license plate (before/after) would be great.
Effective or not, props for working outside the box!
Let us know how it works. Tuft tests at the license plate and better yet, manometer results in the wheel well and license plate (before/after) would be great.
Effective or not, props for working outside the box!
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07-16-2013, 01:51 PM
#483
I look forward to reading about how those vents perform.
My experience, from playing around with a manometer, is that opening the windows drastically reduces interior air pressure. That said, this was over a year ago and I don't recall which location I used as a reference point for that test.
My experience, from playing around with a manometer, is that opening the windows drastically reduces interior air pressure. That said, this was over a year ago and I don't recall which location I used as a reference point for that test.
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07-16-2013, 05:07 PM
#484
I'll be fastening a vertical plastic sheet to the front just like you've all seen before with an opening for my radiator but I've got a question about the opening. Should I be ducting the air only to the radiator opening? This makes sense to me so I can make the opening as small as possible and reduce drag but what if I don't? Will that create a high pressure zone above the "splitter" and create more down force before pushing out towards the wheels? Making the ducting doesn't seem like the easiest task but I could probably just bend some aluminum sheet for the bottom and 2 sides and be fairly effective.
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07-20-2013, 06:00 PM
#488
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: The Race Track & St Pete FL
Posts: 638
Total Cats: 57
I found that Ferrari piece a few months ago and thought about a fan or a R/C electric turbine to help suck the air out of my drivetrain tunnel. But I am looking at running my exhaust the same way as the Ferrari. The goal I have is to reduce the rear drag by pulling as much air out of my drivetrain tunnel as possible.
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07-22-2013, 04:24 PM
#494
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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So along the lines of the negative air pressure in the cab... I have slots cut in my trunk lid for an old rear wing mount setup I was playing with. I had been having problems with exhaust gases getting sucked into the cab while out on the track and had tried several things to deal with it.
At the last event, I tried sealing the trunk slots (and all other holes that led into the trunk area) with painter's tape, hypothesizing that was the path for the exhaust getting into the car. That fixed the problem immediately. So, I am not surprised at all about the tufts getting sucked into the rear window vents as shown above.
My exhaust exits past the rear bumper fascia.
At the last event, I tried sealing the trunk slots (and all other holes that led into the trunk area) with painter's tape, hypothesizing that was the path for the exhaust getting into the car. That fixed the problem immediately. So, I am not surprised at all about the tufts getting sucked into the rear window vents as shown above.
My exhaust exits past the rear bumper fascia.
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07-24-2013, 02:27 PM
#495
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 409
Total Cats: 20
Yep.
One thing I noticed though, if you look at the row of strings on the trunk lid: with the vents closed some are pointing up/forward but with the vents open they are all laying down flat and pointing backward like they should. You can only see a couple of them in the pic so its hard to be sure, but they may indicate that the laminar flow is getting back down to the trunk lid faster with them open... not that I have any idea why.
One thing I noticed though, if you look at the row of strings on the trunk lid: with the vents closed some are pointing up/forward but with the vents open they are all laying down flat and pointing backward like they should. You can only see a couple of them in the pic so its hard to be sure, but they may indicate that the laminar flow is getting back down to the trunk lid faster with them open... not that I have any idea why.
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07-24-2013, 02:29 PM
#496
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 409
Total Cats: 20
So along the lines of the negative air pressure in the cab... I have slots cut in my trunk lid for an old rear wing mount setup I was playing with. I had been having problems with exhaust gases getting sucked into the cab while out on the track and had tried several things to deal with it.
At the last event, I tried sealing the trunk slots (and all other holes that led into the trunk area) with painter's tape, hypothesizing that was the path for the exhaust getting into the car. That fixed the problem immediately. So, I am not surprised at all about the tufts getting sucked into the rear window vents as shown above.
My exhaust exits past the rear bumper fascia.
At the last event, I tried sealing the trunk slots (and all other holes that led into the trunk area) with painter's tape, hypothesizing that was the path for the exhaust getting into the car. That fixed the problem immediately. So, I am not surprised at all about the tufts getting sucked into the rear window vents as shown above.
My exhaust exits past the rear bumper fascia.
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07-24-2013, 02:55 PM
#497
Yep.
One thing I noticed though, if you look at the row of strings on the trunk lid: with the vents closed some are pointing up/forward but with the vents open they are all laying down flat and pointing backward like they should. You can only see a couple of them in the pic so its hard to be sure, but they may indicate that the laminar flow is getting back down to the trunk lid faster with them open... not that I have any idea why.
One thing I noticed though, if you look at the row of strings on the trunk lid: with the vents closed some are pointing up/forward but with the vents open they are all laying down flat and pointing backward like they should. You can only see a couple of them in the pic so its hard to be sure, but they may indicate that the laminar flow is getting back down to the trunk lid faster with them open... not that I have any idea why.
Are you thinking about ducting the high-pressure turbulent air to some low pressure zone and thereby make the important air under the wing less disturbed?
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07-24-2013, 07:48 PM
#498
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, MI
Posts: 460
Total Cats: 15
One thing I noticed though, if you look at the row of strings on the trunk lid: with the vents closed some are pointing up/forward but with the vents open they are all laying down flat and pointing backward like they should. You can only see a couple of them in the pic so its hard to be sure, but they may indicate that the laminar flow is getting back down to the trunk lid faster with them open... not that I have any idea why.
Shitty picture I found on google (left side):
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08-02-2013, 10:48 PM
#499
Do any of you guys with quick disconnect splitters have pictures of your mounting setup that you could post? Specifically the rear mounts. I went back through this thread and the "Splitter height" thread and didn't see much. I made a giant splitter last week and was pretty happy with the mounts I made, but I dropped 2 tires on corner exit Sunday and lost the splitter and destroyed my brackets, so it's time to redesign. My mounting setup didn't fail from aero forces, but from the splitter digging into dirt. I'm going to go from 3.5" static up to 4" and try not go off any more lol.
Losing the splitter alone didn't upset me too much since I expected it to happen at some point and used plywood and kept it pretty cheap, but what I didn't expect was that the aluminum angle pieces I had attached to the splitter as backing for my airdam ended up taking out 2 fresh hoosiers.
They didn't puncture the tire enough to damage it, but it was enough force over a small enough area that it caused a giant split in the rubber, down to the belt. Pretty nasty, since I would have likely kept going in a race situation and found out about the tire issue a few laps later. I want my new setup to be completely flat after the bolts tear through the wood, so that if I lose the splitter again I won't have to worry about a high speed tire failure. I've got a couple ideas on how to do that, but still haven't figured out one that retains the quick disconnect for loading onto the trailer.
Losing the splitter alone didn't upset me too much since I expected it to happen at some point and used plywood and kept it pretty cheap, but what I didn't expect was that the aluminum angle pieces I had attached to the splitter as backing for my airdam ended up taking out 2 fresh hoosiers.
They didn't puncture the tire enough to damage it, but it was enough force over a small enough area that it caused a giant split in the rubber, down to the belt. Pretty nasty, since I would have likely kept going in a race situation and found out about the tire issue a few laps later. I want my new setup to be completely flat after the bolts tear through the wood, so that if I lose the splitter again I won't have to worry about a high speed tire failure. I've got a couple ideas on how to do that, but still haven't figured out one that retains the quick disconnect for loading onto the trailer.
Last edited by jpreston; 08-02-2013 at 11:09 PM.
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