Post your DIY aero pics
05-29-2012, 08:02 AM
#123
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: melbourne aus
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I have not changed suspension settings. But I am still playing around with it. Basically will go off tyre temp readings, lap times, etc. And make adj. The local track is very rough, but in a month I will be at Phillip island track, and can really play with all the aero/ chassis. It's a fast and smooth track. About 2 minute track, with a very high top speed coming onto a long straight, then into a very fast turn 1. Good for seeing results for tuning of aero.
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05-29-2012, 08:41 AM
#124
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Houston
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You probably don't want to change your setup to help with the aero (except maybe lowering ride height), you want to change your setup to better take advantage of it's effects.
If the aero is working worth a damn your suspension will see a higher load, so stiffer springs might be a good idea.
It also might be a good idea to actually run a higher ride height. With the airdamn/splitter you can still close the gap between the car and the road, and with a higher ride height your suspension geometry may be less compromised... but I haven't looked into Miata suspension geometry enough to know for sure how lowering effects it, I'm sure someone else here can comment on that.
The splitter does have a LOT of red paint on the underside from rubbing on curbing
P.S. I'd recommend using jam nuts or some other locking mechanism on your turnbuckles. I had mine loosen up a lot during a single session. If I'd stayed out much longer I may have lost the splitter.
If the aero is working worth a damn your suspension will see a higher load, so stiffer springs might be a good idea.
It also might be a good idea to actually run a higher ride height. With the airdamn/splitter you can still close the gap between the car and the road, and with a higher ride height your suspension geometry may be less compromised... but I haven't looked into Miata suspension geometry enough to know for sure how lowering effects it, I'm sure someone else here can comment on that.
The splitter does have a LOT of red paint on the underside from rubbing on curbing
P.S. I'd recommend using jam nuts or some other locking mechanism on your turnbuckles. I had mine loosen up a lot during a single session. If I'd stayed out much longer I may have lost the splitter.
Last edited by Handy Man; 05-29-2012 at 08:59 AM.
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05-30-2012, 02:06 AM
#126
[QUOTE=Handy Man;882835]You probably don't want to change your setup to help with the aero (except maybe lowering ride height), you want to change your setup to better take advantage of it's effects.
If the aero is working worth a damn your suspension will see a higher load, so stiffer springs might be a good idea.
It also might be a good idea to actually run a higher ride height. With the airdamn/splitter you can still close the gap between the car and the road, and with a higher ride height your suspension geometry may be less compromised... QUOTE]
Agreed, especially if you have no flat undertray in the center. Running a higher ride height with a rough undertray (as the stock miata has) will reduce the positive lift effect it produces. Ideally you want the splitter 3" off the ground. Too low and the ground effects begin to trail off and become negated. Too high and you're not "choking" enough air to create a lower pressure area under the car. Remember, the ground and the car need to form a venturi tube.
If the aero is working worth a damn your suspension will see a higher load, so stiffer springs might be a good idea.
It also might be a good idea to actually run a higher ride height. With the airdamn/splitter you can still close the gap between the car and the road, and with a higher ride height your suspension geometry may be less compromised... QUOTE]
Agreed, especially if you have no flat undertray in the center. Running a higher ride height with a rough undertray (as the stock miata has) will reduce the positive lift effect it produces. Ideally you want the splitter 3" off the ground. Too low and the ground effects begin to trail off and become negated. Too high and you're not "choking" enough air to create a lower pressure area under the car. Remember, the ground and the car need to form a venturi tube.
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05-30-2012, 07:05 AM
#127
Agreed, especially if you have no flat undertray in the center. Running a higher ride height with a rough undertray (as the stock miata has) will reduce the positive lift effect it produces. Ideally you want the splitter 3" off the ground. Too low and the ground effects begin to trail off and become negated. Too high and you're not "choking" enough air to create a lower pressure area under the car. Remember, the ground and the car need to form a venturi tube.[/QUOTE]
I dont know, i say even without an undertray you will see some gains by just the fact that u lowered the car and you are controlling airflow under it with a splitter. Alot of guys on this thread have said that they have run lower that 3" with out any ill effects, bear with me hear for a moment, when u lower the car at all with splitter or not ur basically creating this venturi if the car is flat ie; same ride height all 4 corners, because of the shape of the front bumper of the Miata it will naturally have some lift but if u raise the rear of the car thereby using the front bumper as the choke point then u will see gains, ever notice how nascar did it before they went to the setup they have now they didnt have flat bottom cars they used a higher rear bumper as part of their areo package.
I dont know, i say even without an undertray you will see some gains by just the fact that u lowered the car and you are controlling airflow under it with a splitter. Alot of guys on this thread have said that they have run lower that 3" with out any ill effects, bear with me hear for a moment, when u lower the car at all with splitter or not ur basically creating this venturi if the car is flat ie; same ride height all 4 corners, because of the shape of the front bumper of the Miata it will naturally have some lift but if u raise the rear of the car thereby using the front bumper as the choke point then u will see gains, ever notice how nascar did it before they went to the setup they have now they didnt have flat bottom cars they used a higher rear bumper as part of their areo package.
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06-06-2012, 05:21 PM
#129
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Not the best pics, but here you go. Built to SCCA SSM specs (6" past front bumper) will have front supports to help support the front. Also goes all the way back to centerline of front axle and as wide and will fit between tires at full lock.
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06-06-2012, 06:29 PM
#131
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Location: melbourne aus
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You are going to need a serious wing for that front splitter. I never have understeer on fast corners, only over steer. So a standard sized splitter to stop lift is all i think most people will need.
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06-09-2012, 03:38 AM
#138
Handy Man - quick questions for you or anyone else who built an air dam like yours:
Do you just rivet it on over the OEM bumper or do you cut the lower part of the bumper cover out? Do you put any material to back the rivets or is the skin strong enough? I've seen Crusher in person and Emilio left the bumper cover underneath but Crusher is in a more constant state of evolution. I'm going to replicate something similar to what you did when I can scrape the cash together to get a wing. I don't see much point until then since my a** would just beat me to the corner exit on a regular basis...
Thanks!
Do you just rivet it on over the OEM bumper or do you cut the lower part of the bumper cover out? Do you put any material to back the rivets or is the skin strong enough? I've seen Crusher in person and Emilio left the bumper cover underneath but Crusher is in a more constant state of evolution. I'm going to replicate something similar to what you did when I can scrape the cash together to get a wing. I don't see much point until then since my a** would just beat me to the corner exit on a regular basis...
Thanks!
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06-09-2012, 08:39 AM
#140
12mm birch water cut, 2 - 8mm threaded rod front supports, 2 - 1" x 1/8" metal bar supports behind bumper between fog light holes and mouth, 4 - 10mm bolts to the subframe. Extends to the rear of the front lower control mounting point. I can stand on it.
Posted these earlier
Posted these earlier
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