Race prep
So after almost two years, it's finally time for me to bring the track slut to the track. In 14 days, not including the last 3 hours of today, I'll be attending a HPDE day at my local track, PIR (Portland International Raceway). For those of you who aren't familiar with the track, it's a lot of straights and braking.
Things I've added since last time: COPs, MS, 460s, wheels, tires, 11" brakes, brake ducts, DIY air dam, springs, shocks, and a muffler. Obviously, this is a huge change. I wish I could've tested each change individual, but that just wasn't in the books. 4 months self inflicted (unpaid) unemployment, a complete career change, training for said career, 9 months at a new job, and now a month at a better new job, was in the books. Now, on to my questions: 1. What should I expect out of the MS on the track? AKA, are my AFR's going to change with the added heat? Should I change my spark map to help with reliability? I'll post my .msq soon. I THINK I'm running the MSPNP base map for spark. 2. Ever since I had the muffler re-installed so I could do some street tuning more discretely, it's rubbed more than before, especially on right turns, which there are a lot of at PIR. What changes, if any, should I expect to my tune if I were to remove this obstruction? I still run a cat. I could avoid any tune hassles by leaving it on, but if it simply rubs too much, I'll have to take it off at the track, and deal with those changes there, not something I want to do. 3. My new shocks I mentioned are Koni Races. I think. There's only one adjustment, which is a little tab I can turn on top. There's no numbers or clicks, and I have no idea what it does. Rebound? Seems to stiffen up a bit with it screwed out all the way. Anybody know what it controls and which way does what? 4. Any dwell settings I should change for track driven COPs? I think that's about it for now, hopefully I'll finally have something that gets me through the entire track day. TL;DR: 1. how's my tune gonna change? 2. remove muffler now or later? 3. what's that thing on top of my shocks do? 4. are COPs gonna act wack? |
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 732127)
1. What should I expect out of the MS on the track? AKA, are my AFR's going to change with the added heat? Should I change my spark map to help with reliability? I'll post my .msq soon. I THINK I'm running the MSPNP base map for spark.
I think yours is too retarded, maybe even to the point of cooking valves but I don't really know what I'm talking about. I run: 91-Octane Oklahoma fuel makes 233whp/211wtq@11psi on a dynojet http://i53.tinypic.com/o0b5n5.jpg and 93-Octane Texas Tea makes 244whp/219wtq@11psi on a dynojet http://i53.tinypic.com/2i7bd6f.jpg For the record I jump to 271whp at 15psi. I think you should make the turbo glow yellow, then do a pull in 4th or 5th on the street and listen for det. I also like to use the Polish Det-Cans and record a session to check for detonation at least once after tuning. With that spark table you posted, I seriously doubt there will be any detonation at all.
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 732127)
2. Ever since I had the muffler re-installed so I could do some street tuning more discretely, it's rubbed more than before, especially on right turns, which there are a lot of at PIR. What changes, if any, should I expect to my tune if I were to remove this obstruction? I still run a cat. I could avoid any tune hassles by leaving it on, but if it simply rubs too much, I'll have to take it off at the track, and deal with those changes there, not something I want to do.
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 732127)
3. My new shocks I mentioned are Koni Races. I think. There's only one adjustment, which is a little tab I can turn on top. There's no numbers or clicks, and I have no idea what it does. Rebound? Seems to stiffen up a bit with it screwed out all the way. Anybody know what it controls and which way does what?
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 732127)
4. Any dwell settings I should change for track driven COPs?
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I only run localally brewed 93 octane. I should make a table that splits the difference between yours and mine, see what happens.
So you're saying too retarded cooks the valves? That's something I didn't mention, I don't want any coolant issues. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 732127)
3. what's that thing on top of my shocks do?
You said that the suspension felt stiffer with he shocks turned more towards counter-clockwise. That is probably because the shock settings are getting set too soft and as a result, the shocks aren't able to slow down the motions of the spring. The stiffer the springs, and the softer the shocks, the worse the ride will feel. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 732162)
I only run localally brewed 93 octane. I should make a table that splits the difference between yours and mine, see what happens.
So you're saying too retarded cooks the valves? That's something I didn't mention, I don't want any coolant issues. I don't really know what I'm talking about on spark timing and water temps. I know that if someone leaves spark angle at a static 10*, the car coverheats. Is that because of slow-burning 15:1 AFR's or slow burning 11.5:1 AFR's? I think spoolin2bars has a 9:1 motor, ask to look at his link table and go from there. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 732162)
I only run localally brewed 93 octane. I should make a table that splits the difference between yours and mine, see what happens.
So you're saying too retarded cooks the valves? That's something I didn't mention, I don't want any coolant issues. |
i wouldn't go as high as hustler, but he's right, spark from 3400 up in the 212 230 map rows looks dangerously retarded. i would go up a degree at a time, lookin' out for detonation. you should be able to run 13* safely with no problem, probably higher, but i would take it slow to prevent any mishaps.
besides lowering your exhuast gas temps., your car should literally come alive with even a few * of timing advance. again, your not trying to max it out, but too retarded is bad also once your at wot with a high load (higher gears) for 20 mins. |
Koni shocks get firmer when you turn the adjuster counter clockwise.
From my understanding most single adjustable shocks adjust compression and rebound inversly. One gets stiffrer while the other gets softer. Also if you remove the restriction in the exhaust your car will run lean. We deal with this all the time here at work with the FD's. Your car will exhale better which allows the turbo to spool faster and flow better. However since you already have the car tuned then you should still be on the safe side. Just keep an eye out on your AFR. Have a great day, Jared |
Gotcha. I'll play around with timing a bit, like spoolin suggested, I brought everything north of 3400 and above 128 up 3*, we'll see what happens. I have my lap top and the old tune with me just in case.
Jared, thanks for that. I'll leave them on full stiff, and probably won't have time between boost settings, keeping the thing cool, and MS issues to deal with shock tuning. At least I know I'm starting in the right place now. |
Do you have one of Wayne's electronic det cans? I've got one you can borrow if you want.
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Originally Posted by cueball1
(Post 732921)
Do you have one of Wayne's electronic det cans? I've got one you can borrow if you want.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 732127)
Things I've added since last time: COPs, MS, 460s, wheels, tires, 11" brakes, brake ducts, DIY air dam, springs, shocks, and a muffler.
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Originally Posted by MINI-P
(Post 733061)
I know I a noob and all, but I think if you've added wheels and tires since last time you're gonna be WAY faster. But that's just me :)
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Originally Posted by cueball1
(Post 732921)
Do you have one of Wayne's electronic det cans? I've got one you can borrow if you want.
Originally Posted by MINI-P
(Post 733061)
I know I a noob and all, but I think if you've added wheels and tires since last time you're gonna be WAY faster. But that's just me :)
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Sitrep.
Coolant was rock steady at 160* Oil was rock steady at 190* AFR lowered steadily from 12 to 10.8. Little rich, but I'll take it. My normal MPG of 22 was cut in half to 11, giving me exactly 1/4 tank per session, which was perfect. Best part of the whole day, was that I got to check my tire pressure! That's a huge step. After changing my oil, I didn't re-check it until I'd driven to the track and done a session. So I did have to top it off after it filled then engine and filter. But other than that I didn't have open the bonnet at all. Some pictures and kill stories to follow. |
2 Attachment(s)
Thought this was interesting, only "casualty" of the day
Attachment 188337 Attachment 188338 Foil tape to seal in front of the radiator blew out. It's been there a while, before I sealed the mouth. I believe this is air coming in the hole I cut above the mouth. Since it's now sealed, I guess that's the only way to get out. |
shows you how bad the air wants to go around the radiator instead of through it. i'm getting my ducting done tomorrow.
the important question is "did you have fun?" |
Tons. I work nights and had one day to convert to a day schedule. That means coming home at 8am after working all night and sleeping for 3ish hours. I then busted my ass to drive just over an hour round trip to pick up a seat from Cueball1, fabricate some mounts, pack my tools up, pack my GF's car with the tools, and wash the car, which happened around 9pm, and then passed out around midnight. Slept horribly until 5:30. Needless to say, my brain wasn't in the last session, and I took it fairly conservatively. Probably good, since I was under E after the end of the session, even with the conservativeness. The other three sessions were epically fun, I haven't had that kind of fun since I was N/A. Chasing down a good drivers '05 M3 and seeing his blinker turn on the back straight was amazing. I love my car again.
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I know everyone says ducting is key, but that pic alone is going to make me finally do it.
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