Should I drill a hole in my engine block?
11-02-2012, 01:52 PM
#22
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Sarah Palin's got your back
If you've got the stones to maybe ruin a block, go for it. I however will not be pioneering this technique.
Alternately: who has a broke *** BP block to cut up and show us whats inside?
If you've got the stones to maybe ruin a block, go for it. I however will not be pioneering this technique.
Alternately: who has a broke *** BP block to cut up and show us whats inside?
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11-02-2012, 04:07 PM
#23
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All I can say is my current system is the best I have come up with yet at solving the breather issues with a 350+ HP track Miata that turns righteously quick lap times in a somewhat reliable and repeated manner. It has a hole drilled in the block to aid the breather system.
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11-02-2012, 04:30 PM
#24
All I can say is my current system is the best I have come up with yet at solving the breather issues with a 350+ HP track Miata that turns righteously quick lap times in a somewhat reliable and repeated manner. It has a hole drilled in the block to aid the breather system.
Would you happen to have pics?
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11-02-2012, 08:30 PM
#25
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I have the catch can setup where I can vent it to atmosphere or to a slash cut that has the exhaust flow pull a small vacuum on it. It works better and makes less mess to have the exhaust flow sucking the blow-by gas out the tailpipe though technically not legal pre SCCA GCR.
Bob
Bob
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11-02-2012, 10:07 PM
#26
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I have the catch can setup where I can vent it to atmosphere or to a slash cut that has the exhaust flow pull a small vacuum on it. It works better and makes less mess to have the exhaust flow sucking the blow-by gas out the tailpipe though technically not legal pre SCCA GCR.
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11-02-2012, 11:14 PM
#27
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When I ran the vent line from the intake side PCV port it was a disaster after hard left hand turns. Blocked that off and it was fine. I know there is still some oil getting sucked out the tailpipe because of the residue that collects in the hose going back to the exhaust but I don’t have oil smoke clouds following me around. Smoke problems I have had after this install were from failed o2 and running too rich. I safety wise or environmentally don’t see the difference between vent to atmosphere and vent to atmosphere out the tailpipe. For some reason the people making competition rules don’t like it though.
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11-02-2012, 11:37 PM
#29
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Hey Bob, I don't mean to be "that guy" but are there 3 spacers under your oil filter? Looks like filter > mocal thermostat spacer > gauge and turbo feed spacer > OEM heat exchanger > block
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11-02-2012, 11:40 PM
#30
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Mazda originally designed the B6-T with a Breather port in the block I have talked to some European Rally guys who ran the cars in factory support trim and said they came with a breather system with an oil separator that drained back into the bottom of the oil pan. I have never seen the system installed myself but if you had a US spec GTX it came with the breather and the return port blocked off as shown below.
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11-03-2012, 01:49 PM
#33
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The guys road racing older GT-Rs with RB26's use a large diameter hose between the top end of the block and the back of the head to allow the gasses from blowby and pumping pulses to pass more readily to the valve cover area. The oil draining back to the pan is fighting the gasses coming upward from the other direction through the same small area and at high RPMs and high boost there is a lot of both. Increasing the flow area between the top and bottom of the engine reduces the speed of the gasses and creates less oil vapor as the two pass each other. Everything gets where it is going with less impediments.
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11-03-2012, 06:17 PM
#34
Mazda originally designed the B6-T with a Breather port in the block I have talked to some European Rally guys who ran the cars in factory support trim and said they came with a breather system with an oil separator that drained back into the bottom of the oil pan. I have never seen the system installed myself but if you had a US spec GTX it came with the breather and the return port blocked off as shown below.
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11-03-2012, 06:25 PM
#35
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i feel like maybe "you" shouldn't drill a hole in your block, id personally weld a bung to the valve cover if your intention is to avoid blow by... but realistically if u really need to in order to run 20+PSI id avoid DIY
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11-03-2012, 08:16 PM
#36
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Hondas/evos etc that run high boost frequently have 4x -8 fittings...
How much boost will you run?
A single -12 was fine for me at 25psi.
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11-03-2012, 08:36 PM
#37
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if u ever wanna pull your turbo id prefer to just swap a stock valve cover instead
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11-03-2012, 09:19 PM
#38
There is always a point of no return. For me it was the third heater core that leaked. Now, my car will never return to a stock coolant system. That's just one example on my personal car.
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11-03-2012, 10:05 PM
#39
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If you turbo as well as you grammar, you are already preeminently damaging your car.
There is always a point of no return. For me it was the third heater core that leaked. Now, my car will never return to a stock coolant system. That's just one example on my personal car.
There is always a point of no return. For me it was the third heater core that leaked. Now, my car will never return to a stock coolant system. That's just one example on my personal car.
well i guess it reflects the fact that i never have 'turbo'ed" a car. hence NOOBIZM...
It all depends how far your willing to go, what i do know is simplicity in turn has always brought reliability. If you decide to drill into your block id recommend having a machine shop handle it.
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