thebeerbaron

iTrader: (1)

In the spirit of the tow rig thread, let's talk about trailers.

I recently bought a used 20' Interstate LoadRunner that had been used for several years as a construction office. I wanted a 10k GVWR trailer, but this 7k is what was available at a reasonable price.

In case you don't know what an enclosed trailer looks like, here it is as-purchased:

It's in pretty decent condition, but it had obviously sat more than it moved. I re-did the trailer connector wiring and breakaway box, repacked all the hubs, adjusted the brakes, added a door bar lock to the side door, and put new tires on it. Now it's caught up on maintenance, so it's time to consider the inside.


This is my dog Jack. He's a good boy. He's enjoying the futon I grabbed from the trash area at my rental complex. Free is good. I haven't slept on it yet, but it's got to be more comfortable than an air mattress, and it'll be a good place for Jack to hang out while I'm out on track. I have three or four boxes like the one in the picture that carry my stuff - snack food, some spare parts/fluids, bedding, etc. For now, they're strapped to the floor when in motion, but they're not really that convenient to paw through or re-stack.

In terms of further updates I'm considering:

• A bracket to hold the Daytona jack vertically against the wall somewhere.
• Something to hang the tie-downs out of the way when the car is unloaded.
• Vinyl composition tile for the floor
• Gloss white paint for the walls
• A deep cycle battery for 12v "house" power.
• Replacing the 120v fluorescent tubes on the ceiling with some spare DC LED "tubes" I have lying around.

What's in your trailer?
How do you organize your stuff?
What stuff do you bring with you?

I'd be interested to learn what everyone else is dragging around besides cars.

codrus

A topic on which I have a few things to say. An enclosed trailer becomes your shop/hangout/base of operations at the track, IMHO it's totally worth spending some time to make it nice.

For jack holder, I don't have one (nowhere to put it), but I really like the one Pit Pal sells:
Winch is a must-have:


Tire rack is also a must-have:


If you have a low car with a splitter, race ramps are another must-have:


Coincidentally, the big flip-up table turned out to be the perfect storage rack for the race ramps. I later added a strap across the top to keep them in place.


Some simple/cheap things are really useful. A big clock is a good idea, and a bluetooth stereo for some tunes. Folding camp chairs and a folding camp table. Whiteboard/corkboard on the door:


In general, Pit Pal (and the similar Pit Posse) have a bunch of interesting trailer outfitting products. They aren't super cheap, but it's an interesting site to browse just to see what other people have thought of. My trailer came with a bunch of them installed by a previous owner:

Combo helmet shelf and clothing rack for your suit:


Small flip-down table with chemical storage and paper towel holder, next to hook for storing tie down straps:

(I have since replaced that hook with one that has extra hooks on the side for the axle straps and moved the old hook down below it to hook the other end of the strap to. This prevents it from swinging around in the wind)

I added a shelf for holding jackstands. The holder for boxes of disposable gloves is another of those cheap-but-super-convenient things.


Solar on the roof to keep the batteries topped up is very convenient:


AC on the roof for hot days is freaking awesome:


Generator to run it goes on slide-out:


Electric tongue jack makes hitching/unhitching up a lot less annoying:


Trailer tires are way back there and it's very hard to notice when they go flat before they get destroyed. TPMS is good for that:


Cameras on the trailer help a lot with maneuvering it into tight spots:



A nice hitch lock to help prevent it from walking away:


--Ian

codrus

Oh, and don't forget the fire extinguisher!

--Ian

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I literally JUST installed that same electric jack to the boat trailer. The new boat tilts with electric / hydraulic, but still had old school crank. I'm getting old i can't be bothered with cranking on things these days, so that had to be swapped out stat.

Great idea for a thread. Similar too: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...athread-98996/ but different. Before you list off all your spares, check there first!

Roda

Ian's setup is sweet...

For the OP: before doing anything else, consider installing some E-track. I passed on it when originally spec'ing out my trailer and I ended up regretting that...

Ours is an 8.5x24, and I optioned it from the factory with finished interior, rubber 'diamond plate' flooring, shore power and overhead cabinets. I left off a few options, because I had ideas about what I wanted to do myself.




Over the last few years, I've added:

12V power
Winch
Workbench/toolbox
Cameras
E-track




The workbench is a combination of a modified HF tool cart and fabricated bench. Room for storage under the bench, and the tool cart can be rolled out in the pits if necessary. I eventually needed to add the E-track to tie down our Camaro, as the installed tie down points I used with our Miatas wouldn't work. In retrospect, I would go with E-track exclusively if I ever do it again. I would also go with a smooth floor... the 'diamondplate' is great for traction, but sucks when you're trying to sweep it clean. I literally have to use the shop vac and vacuum the thing if I want it really clean.

I have a camera setup like Ian's, which works really well going down the road. With our camper loaded, I can't see **** behind us without the cameras.



Future plans include a 2nd deep cycle battery, solar, and an inverter for bench top power. I'd also like to convert the 120V flourescent overhead lighting to 12v LED.

I haul all the typical stuff to the track: jack, stands, etc... I use a nitrogen bottle instead of hauling around a compressor, and I modified a hand cart to roll it around.



I've got an idea in my head for a tire cart that will also carry the n2 bottle, jack and stands, I just need to get around to building it... And that's my biggest issue with the trailer: actually getting around to all my planned projects for it!

thebeerbaron

iTrader: (1)

I specifically don't want to have to pick up the jack, so that's not going to work. I bought this one to use in the garage, but now I've replaced it with your QuickJack, so it goes in the trailer. It contains way too much gravity to lift into that holder comfortably.

What's the rating on your winch? I figure the only time I'd use it is to drag a broken car into the trailer and in that case I'm thinking it'd need to overcome a missing wheel or other significant structural failure. The 2500lb rated ones from HF are well-priced but I'm not sure they'd be enough to fight even a Miata.

I've already got a clock waiting to be installed - gotta know when the next session starts! Also a clipboard for holding the day's schedule.

Exactly what I have, except I replaced the padlock with one from PacLock. I ordered directly from them with a custom key code and got all my trailer locks on the same key.

I literally just gave away a fire extinguisher to a clueless guy who dropped by my neighbor's garage to exchange some MR2 parts. His car had a bad fuel leak at the rail and stank like heck. He had no idea there was anything wrong. I snugged up the AN fitting in two places and sent him on his way with a get-home-safely gift. I do not need a BBQ'd 1st gen MR2 on my conscience.

Good catch, I knew that was around, I didn't think to link to it.


Regarding interior cabinets - what are you putting in them? It looks like a lot of the load (at least in Ian's case) goes in specialized holders/racks/hooks. What's left to go in those cabinets? Do you prefer doors and shelves over drawers?

codrus

I bought the cheap aluminum HF jack to keep in the trailer for use on the race car. For jacking the trailer itself I bought a HF bottle jack. Trying to haul a super heavy floor jack around doesn't seem that useful to me.

The winch is a Warn 3700DC (which they don't sell any more, replaced by the 4000DC), I believe 3700 pounds is the rating. Note that winch ratings are how much they can lift against gravity and if you're pulling a car on wheels into the trailer you don't need anything close to as much as the weight. It'll be more if you're dragging a car that you've torn a corner off, but even then you've probably wedged a floor jack under it and are using those wheels. I expect the HF winches are fine -- I bought mine a decade ago when the HF ones had a terrible reputation.

the cabinets under my bench hold the generator, batteries, winch, air compressor, spare tire, spare brake rotors, some boxes of chemicals, tools that I don't keep in the trailer permanently (load/unload on each trip), stuff like that. The cabinets along the side have some misc stuff in them -- they're up high and hard to access while the car is in there, so I don't use them much. The previous owner installed them, not sure if I would bother if I were doing it again. Bottles of coolant, extra drinking water, spare parts for the BMW, stuff like that.

--Ian

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I always feel a little left out of these threads since my info is not at all useful to literally anyone else on the forums. But it's not far off of what you guys are carrying around. Different sport, same principal.

The new boat / trailer is set up much nicer than the old one.

First box is the tool box, i'd say that 95% of all the hand tools i need are in that box. (not great for tongue weight, but great for access).
Second box has all the essentials for race time. I can manage to shove the cover in it too if needed.
Third box has stuff that isn't so essential for race time but isn't very heavy. I usually take one of my rubbermade totes with spare parts and stick it in there as you can't open it when the boat is laying flat.



Fuel jugs go in the holder you see in the front. You guys all have access to fuel? Must be nice, i have to carry everything i need for the weekend.
Big black box on the left holds as much heavy stuff as i can stuff in it. Generator, bottle jack, jack stands, extra socket / wrench set. tire chalks.
Home made box on the right holds the trailer power(battery) and hydraulic for the tilt.



Everything else, canopys, spares, luggage, fordable table, cooler, race suit & gear all has to fit in the back of the truck.

codrus

Most tracks have pump gas and 100 octane available, usually not E85. It does tend to be expensive though.

I bring fuel with me, but I don't want to keep it in the trailer because of fumes. I put the jugs in the back of my pickup.

--Ian

dleavitt

iTrader: (1)

Still working on my new to me trailer, but consider e-track on the walls as well as the floor.










Use a couple 2x4s for a tire rack.

codrus

BTW, for stuff like chairs or creepers, you can get e-track bungee straps:
--Ian

Erat

iTrader: (5)

There it is. 9pm on a Sunday night. See this post from my friends on FB. They blew a tire Friday going to the track, put the spare on and then blew another one coming home...

I asked an old timer once, what was the most important thing to have to be successful in racing. He told me, reliable tow vehicle and trailer.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (1)

I lost 3 tires in one trip once...... and I usually carry 2 spares.

Great ideas in this thread. I am getting ready to upgrade to a 40 ft gooseneck trailer so the more efficiently I can use the space the better off I will be at the races.

navalhawkeye

@codrus - can you go into detail on the camera system? I'm really wanting to do something on mine. The options are pretty overwhelming, and they all seem to have big ups and downs.

Roda

Here's my camera install thread over on the Cummins forum: Camera install thread

I'm not sure which system Ian is using, but when I was researching, I found the expensive systems appeared to use the same components and had just as many bad reviews as the 'cheap' ones. I ended up with an eRapta four camera system off Amazon; there's a link in the above thread, and I think they stil sell the same system. I mounted three cameras on my trailer, similar to Ian's and mounted the 4th camera on a magnet mount and use it on the hitch or on our camper. Over the last four years, I've had one camera go bad, but the replacement was cheap.

navalhawkeye

@Roda that's awesome, thanks. Can't really gather from the amazon page, but how much cable does that include?

Roda

It came with enough to get to the bumper of the truck, IIRC, but I don't remember the exact length. I ended up buying extra for the run from the hitch to the back of the trailer. The four wire cable is pretty cheap on Amazon.

navalhawkeye

Cool, thanks.

codrus

I have an "RVS-062710" sold by "Rear View Safety". Four cameras, two wide angle, two narrow. The wide go on the back of the trailer (above the door looking down) and on the truck's rear bumper (basically acting as a standard backup camera, which my 2007 doesn't have otherwise). The two narrow ones are designed to mount on the side of the trailer looking back, giving the kind of perspective you get from a side mirror. They have both wired and wireless systems, I elected to go wired and trade off a little more labor up front to install them for a lower price and hoped increase in reliability. Note that even with a wireless system you still have to get power to the cameras, so it doesn't reduce the install labor all that much.

Each of the four cameras has about a 10 foot cable integral with it. The kit came with 2 long extension cables (approx 30 feet) and 2 shorter ones (approx 15 feet), all four cameras need to plug into the head unit along with power and ground. The head unit is a 7" LCD display, comes with a mounting bracket, has buttons on it to change view angles, etc. As it comes, the kit is really intended for RVs, not for trailers. To adapt it to trailer use they sell another kit that includes two "hydra" cables that adapt 3 of the camera cables to a single connector. You mount one of the hydra cables on the front of the trailer, the other one on the rear of the truck, and there's a curly-cue cable that then connects those two hydras (going between the vehicles). The connectors are all weather sealed, but there's no easy way to shorten the cables so you need to coil up the extra and stash it somewhere. Other than that it the wiring works well. The head unit also provides a video out signal, I have that plugged into the rear view camera input on my Alpine Android Auto head unit, so I can view it on there. I keep the RVS head unit stashed in the center console of the truck.

As for the system that I have, there a few things things that annoy me about it that I would look to try to address in a future system:

- The cameras are all analog NTSC, so the video quality isn't great. This is probably the biggest annoyance with it, especially since there's another noticable drop in video quality using the RCA output to get the video into my Alpine.
- All of the controls and video merging functionality is built into the head unit, so you can't eliminate that. It takes up a bunch of space in the center console and I never use that display.
- The cameras have IR illumination emitters built into them, but the low light performance isn't very good. They also don't deal with glare from the sun being at a low angle very well.
- There's a weird glitch where when I first start the truck the video is totally washed out. I think it's related to voltage because the interval before it fixes itself seems to match with the run time of the truck's glow plugs. It's annoying because I lose the rear view camera on the trailer right when I most need it for leaving in the morning.

That said, it gets the job done. I had thought I might use the side cameras as rearview mirrors on the freeway, but the image quality is too low and the display too small for it to be useful in that way. Where it's super useful is for putting the trailer away. I store the trailer in the side yard of my house, so I need to reverse it over the curb around a corner, dodging the neighbor's sprinklers, etc. With a bit of practice I can now reliably position it straight and in the same posiiton within 4-6 inches laterally and front-to-back. The cameras help here a ton.

Quick demo of the views: The blue streakiness in the images is the glitch that I mentioned above, this video was from my old truck and the glitch is actually worse in the newer one.

Curly-cue cable looks like this:


--Ian

navalhawkeye

Thanks also!