psreynol

I have a new to me 99 1.8 turbo with a fm kit. I'm going to take off the turbo to install new studs. so if I'm going to pull the turbo, perhaps I should try to get the exhaust manifold coated to help with heat.

this is going to be a track car so heat is a big issue on these cars I'm told.

I was thinking about doing swan coating or something similar.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Mine is coated. It still glows cherry red at night when I pop the hood after an aggressive drive, so coating does not completely stop radiation. However, I notice that my SS heat shield has not changed color (I've got about 10K since boost), and the pictures I see of other setups show clear heat discoloration. So, I surmise that the coating is helping. Definitely effective at preventing corrosion.

inferno94

iTrader: (2)

My mani and turbo are ceramic coated and that along with an aluminium heat shield has resulted in zero heat problems with surrounding components.

Stud stretch has been the only hot side problem I've had.

psreynol

awesome, thanks for the info. can you tell me where you had the parts coated and how much it cost and how long it took? I have an event I about a month and a pretty long todo list.

Bagel

Call Polydyn, We usually coat 500-1000hp turbo manifolds/DP's. It really helps to keep heat down.

jacob300zx

Swaintech is supposed to be the best coating.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I have no coatings and none of my stuff is melted. My cast iron, coated manifold glowed at night with casual street driving, by the time I get the car in the garage with the current, coating-less set-up it does not glow.

Who cares?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Coat and wrap.

TimM

I agree. Do the 10mm inco studs & stage 8 lockers. Wrap/sleeve the heater hoses & get the heat shield in place.

Absolutely, positively do not leave any rubber water or oil lines on the turbo. They will fail sooner rather than later. Braided/teflon lined or hard lines are the only way to go. That means the drain line too.