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Stuff that hits when you modify for HPDE/Race
RE: Potential hardware interference when prepping a 90-05 Miata for high performance. This thread is only about what hits what, not how to make your car faster
Thought it might be useful to start a list to refer newbs to. We'll update the OP as the community add their data points and photos. Mostly suspension related. Focus is on kinematic incompatibilities and tolerance stacks. Off the top of my head.. 9" or wider wheels Hit brake lines at full lock - Clock (rotate at caliper) brake lines to clear Hit front sway bar at full lock - No fix Hit LCA at full lock - No fix but reducing caster sometimes helps Hit OEM diameter springs - Switch to any coilover or coilover sleeve Aftermarket brake lines without locating pin Hit wheels at full droop/lock. - Re-clock brake line at caliper Hit shocks - Reclock Bind at full droop - Replace with longer lines 225/45/15 or wider tires Hit fender at full bump, NA - Roll fenders, add camberz Hit tub at full bump - No fix other than greatly reducing bump travel (bad idea) 245/40/15 Hit fenders at full bump, full lock - NA needs flares are radical pull. NB, roll fenders. 275/35/15 Hit body seam,front, at full lock - Grind body seam, reduce caster NB2 FUCA (Front Upper Control Arms) Gusset in NB2 FUCA can contact shock at full droop if camber eccentrics adjusted too far positive - Increase camber - Grind gusset in FUCA - Swap to NA or NB1 FUCA Extended Lower Ball Joints If camber eccentric adjusted to reduce camber on NB2 FUCA, shocks might hit FUCA -Adjust eccentrics to increase negative camber Aftermarket sway bars Allow bar to hit front shocks at full droop - Grind end of sway bar Allow bar to hit FUCA at full bump - Shorter end links - Grind end of sway bar Bind rear end links at full droop with certain shocks - Do not use adjustment hole in rear bar that causes binding Aftermarket brake calipers / rotors Allow brake lines to hit wheels - Reclock lines at caliper - Drill new 1/8 NPT port to relocate line Allow calipers to hit wheel, but only under cornering load. - This is wheel and/or spindle flex. Allow .120" min clearance to brake components from wheel. Aftermarket header Rear flange lower than OEM reduces ground clearance. Constant off track excursions eventually cracks header and breaks exhaust hangers. - Cut/weld header to relocate flange upwards NB engine in NA chassis with rubber motor mounts Throttle body hits hood - More rigid motor mounts - Clearance hood Offset FUCA bushings May allow 9" or wider wheels to hit FUCA at full lock - No fix |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1517732)
Short body coilovers
Allow shock to hit NB2 FUCA at full droop - Reduce camber - Grind gusset in FUCA - Swap to NA or NB1 FUCA Great list! |
OEM size springs hit wheels full lock, don't remember offhand what width/offset triggers that though.
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Originally Posted by FatKao
(Post 1517788)
OEM size springs hit wheels full lock, don't remember offhand what width/offset triggers that though.
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Repped. Perfect timing on this post, since I've run into NB2 FUCA issues and was working on getting data points for the need to roll fenders with my setup.
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Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1517732)
Aftermarket header
Rear flange lower than OEM reduces ground clearance. Constant off track excursions eventually cracks header and breaks exhaust hangers. - Cut/weld header to relocate flange upwards |
Originally Posted by chp5
(Post 1517961)
Does this occur with a RB header on an NB2? I picked one up and was about to install it. |
Don't seem to see anything about wheels rubbing FUCA's at full lock. Mine seem to rub around the upper ball joint at full lock. That's with offset FUCA bushings (which could be a culprit) at -3 of front camber and 6.5 degrees of caster.
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Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1517732)
9" or wider wheels
Hit brake lines at full lock - Clock (rotate at caliper) brake lines to clear Hit front sway bar at full lock - No fix Hit LCA at full lock - No fix but reducing caster sometimes helps Are they a perfect storm of parts so nothings touches? Is it so extensively modified this doesn't matter? Do you have spacers to push the wheels out a little so it doesn't knock? I've been lusting after some 6ULs in 15x9 (doesn't look like I can get tyres to fit them in the UK) but this does have me concerned. I'm happy to hammer, pull and bend but no fix is present twice. The clock point would do well to have a photo example comparison too for others if possible. |
Originally Posted by Lurch
(Post 1518110)
Don't seem to see anything about wheels rubbing FUCA's at full lock. Mine seem to rub around the upper ball joint at full lock. That's with offset FUCA bushings (which could be a culprit) at -3 of front camber and 6.5 degrees of caster.
Originally Posted by rrjwilson
(Post 1518246)
RE: wheel rub
Bullet and Vegas obviously are in this category and I imagine you do not drive around clenching near full lock so what do you do? ..The clock point would do well to have a photo example comparison too for others if possible. |
I’ve found it helpful to throw a label on the steering wheel saying something like “180* turn max”. Sucks maneuvering in a parking lot, but that’s about twice as much as you need on the track |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1518305)
I’ve found it helpful to throw a label on the steering wheel saying something like “180* turn max”. Sucks maneuvering in a parking lot, but that’s about twice as much as you need on the track |
Or if you're tired of fixing a customers splitter ;)
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Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1518283)
Seriously over thinking it. If your 4" wider than OEM race wheels rub at full lock, don't use full lock. If you need things to not rub, don't racecar. WRT to photo example for brake line orientation, again you are over thinking it. You will figure out a good orientation once you are looking at the brake assembly by being patient and methodical.
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