z31maniac

That sounds awesome. As for being a real man, my current track car has no hard top or soft top and gets driven to the track rain or shine.

Yeah, all my wear parts are good. I think the only thing I'd need to do is have the NB rack depowered and welded, all my hubs/bearings front and rear only have ~15 hours of track time.

Unless I run across a smoking deal, I just don't see it being that cheap. Add in the need for a Torsen and you have nearly the cost of an NB2.

Hence my dilemma.

Not a bad idea, I have the garage space and the time.

It's just a matter of if I want a hacked up '90, or a basically stock NB2. My desire for reliability is what is pushing me toward the NB2.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

If your main goal is reliability and seat time, it seems a no brainer to buy an NB2.

Not than an NA w/ a VVT motor can't be reliable, I just imagine the initial install and making reliable phase will be lost of labor and time...

zerogt86

iTrader: (3)

Given that, I'd say just buy the NB2.

I'm in the middle of a VVT swap into my NA. It's been a lot of work and there is still ton more to do. No way I'd be able to get it done if I didn't know a bunch of people who really enjoy wrenching.

z31maniac

Thanks for all the input gents.

I need to get the NC sold first since I just picked up the tow rig.

Then I'll probably work on pulling apart the NA, selling what few things may be worth it to someone, then begin the process of looking for a good deal on an NB.

Another reason I like this idea is I learned a few things building the first one that I'd like to change for the next one.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I was trying to say that an NB1 would be cheaper than an NB2 if buying the entire car. The NB1 is not a bad platform.

AFAIK yes, but the BP6D adds both VVT and VTCS



Because, you know, VTCS is awesome

Cams are definitely not the same:
We all know the N/A formula, its really no secret:

I/H/E mods on a healthy BP6D engine (10:1, VVT) BP4W intake manifold (VICS rather than VTCS) and like, Racing Beat header and ECU is about as good as it gets for readily available OEM domestic or OTS parts.

Yes, you could always stick a square top on the BP6D if you want to put $400 into a manifold, but is it really worth it? Yes, you give up .5 point of compression and VVT with a NB1, but I'm honestly not sure what that's worth in the grand scheme of things. No clue how "stock" OP wants this car to be. You pay the weight penalty for an NB but you get more power potential. For a superhpappyfuntimes track-only car, put the NB drivetrain in the lightest NA chassis you can find (braced up NA6 w/brakes) and win at power:weight. For a fun and tolerable dual use car, do the same as above with an NBx chassis. It's not rocket surgery.

If someone asspacks my NB and I can salvage the drivetrain, I'm doing the NA6 thing. Or fuckit I'm building an Exocet becausepower:weight

I'm confused by these statements, please elaborate. Actually, don't. It does not really matter and I don't care.

z31maniac

^I don't mind eventually doing bolt-ons and a tune. If I do the swap into an NA6, I'd start off with all of that anyway.

Squaretop is already on the way. If I stick with the NA6, I'll likely sell it and just buy a JDM motor out of Dallas.

I think the main thing is thinking about dropping potentially another $5k+ and still having the NA, vs having something a bit cleaner, no hacking up for a Standalone, more room in the engine bay, etc.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Agree with all this, starting with an NB is definitely less work. Except the hacking up part, not sure where you got this. I had to cut exactly 2 wires to install my MS and they were to adapt the IAT sensor and extend the harness. I don't think I even had to do that, but chose to do it as I wanted to use weatherpacks as opposed to just jamming pins into the stock connector with electrical tape

z31maniac

Well true. I'm also thinking about all that money that doesn't = track time.

Maybe I should just find a '99-00 engine and run it off the crummy barn door AFM and 1.6 ECU so I can at least get back out on track.

Dunning Kruger Affect

Spinning a BP up to 8500RPM is an expensive proposition.

Having lower end torque is awesome.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

FTFY

Want torque? Get a [insert: turbo/diesel/roots blower/more displacement/V6/V8]. Generally a 4 cylinder engine is not a fabulous place to start when one is looking for torque, but I see what you are saying.

If the price difference was more than $1,000 between an NB1 and an NB2, I buy the NB1 and spend the $1,000 on hookers and blow I/H/E and standalone ECU, but that's just me

Dunning Kruger Affect

lol man, that's a good joke. So hilarious when goalposts are constantly being moved, heh

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

No seriously, you were the one talking about spinning it over stock RPM and complaining about usable low end torque.

Dunning Kruger Affect

You're the one that started bringing up the BP4W, but hey, I'm the insane guy.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

I know it's widely accepted the NB is a stiffer (and nicer) chassis; but I'm genuinely curious why exactly. What is so different on the NB that increased it's rigidity so much (other than the added bracing throughout the years that can be added to the older cars)?

Sorry if this has been covered before. What kind of bracing are we talking to make an NA as "stiff" as a stock NB? Am I there yet with a rollbar/frame rails/hardtop/na8 diff brace? The car feels pretty damn stiff now compared to stock at this point.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

True, I brought it up as a viable option however I don't remember the ad hominem.

Dunning Kruger Affect

You might want to look at the definition of ad hom, again.

jacob300zx

Couple of options, buy an NB2 and swap parts, buy an MSM and pull turbo off, throw a K24 in the current car.

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

the NB2 have the butterfly brace thingy. NB1 has the rear subframe U brace (not sure, this might be an NA8 item). the NA8 have the front subframe brace?

might be missing some here...

z31maniac

1. In the running
2. Makes no sense to me at all.
3. Would be awesome, have a feeling it will be even more than I want to spend.

I'd also like to build a 99+ engine and drop in the current car, but the prices for used engines around me is just insane.

If I could find a worn out one for a few hundred buck, I'd go that route.

Meeners

iTrader: (1)

You aren't going to break even. We are talking about cars here.

If you hate working on cars it's a little hard to give you advice on what do to because "work on" is a very subjective term.

How did you blow the previous motors? Were they turbo? If it were me I would just sell the car complete for a good price and start from scratch on a new car (if you go 1.8 you will essentially have to modify/sell off your 1.6 stuff anyway). Usually for me, if I'm thinking about doing something the desire is there... and it sounds like to me you want a fresh start. Nothing boosts motivation like a new project. Who knows you might enjoy working on cars again.