Torquing Wheel nuts...
I have a set of 949 Racing wheel nuts and finally bought a torque wrench.
A couple of questions, - What torque setting is recommended with these aluminium nuts... - How many of you track guys do actually torque to a pre determined value as opposed to just cranking on it and deciding physically how tight is tight enough...? Have my first evening (dark) track day in 4 days time so trying to get things sorted ahead of time. Having read about Emilio losing a wheel in one of his posts I figure wheel nut torque should be one of them... |
From the website http://949racing.com/6ulfaqsandfitmentinfo.aspx
"70~80 ft-lbs ( 94Nm~108Nm)" You really need to use a torque wrench to get the feel for how "not tight" this torque setting is (ie. I'm betting that you're over-tightening them massively if you're "guess-timating" - I certainly was). |
80ft-lbs. Don't torque your wheels down after getting off the track; do it cold.
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I torque with the wheels off the ground. Just have someone hold the brakes for 2 min and go in a star pattern.
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I have always torqued my wheels. My rechargeable impact wrench gets them to about 40-50 ft/lbs, I snug them in a star pattern. Then lower the car to the ground and tighten them in a star pattern to 80 ft/lbs with the wrench.
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Lokiel your right, that doesn't seem 'especially" tight...why is that.
Why wouldn't the tighter the better, be...short of shearing a stud.....or is that the reason..? |
Originally Posted by mx5-kiwi
(Post 894453)
Lokiel your right, that doesn't seem 'especially" tight...why is that.
Why wouldn't the tighter the better, be...short of shearing a stud.....or is that the reason..? P.S. You used the term "shear" COMPLETELY incorrectly. |
Additionally to Curly's comments, you must be extra careful not to over-tighten aluminium lug nuts since they will crush/deform against the wheel and you risk rounding them off.
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I torque them down with my weight :P
1 foot long wrench sitting at about 30 degrees incline. I weight about 170 So my max force i can put down is 170 assuming the wrench is at 90 degrees and i'm standing on the tip of it. More commonly i put down about 150lb-ft. I hold my self up while i'm standing on the wrench so i'm putting about 100-120ft-lb. |
Originally Posted by TorqueZombie
(Post 894425)
I torque with the wheels off the ground. Just have someone hold the brakes for 2 min and go in a star pattern.
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Also, with AL nuts its a good idea to use anti-seize to avoid galling, but be aware the it will lubricate the threads which means you shouldn't torque them as much. Typically you torque lubricated nuts to 15% less than dry, so around 70 ft-lbs.
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Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 894427)
I have always torqued my wheels. My rechargeable impact wrench gets them to about 40-50 ft/lbs, I snug them in a star pattern. Then lower the car to the ground and tighten them in a star pattern to 80 ft/lbs with the wrench.
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Originally Posted by wannafbody
(Post 894477)
It's hard to do a star pattern with 4 lugs:fawk:
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Sorry curly, shear WAS the wrong term. Perhaps I should have used stretched beyond material tolerance...;)
Maybe "snapped" which is what I thought I typed or at least intended. I think I will use 70 ft/lbs and use anti sieze on the thread. Further to the aluminium nuts, do these have a recommended life span, for example a season or are they good for ages like a steel nut? |
Actually, I have no idea what the proper technical term is for tightening a fastener so tight it snaps off. Snapped is certainly not it. I thought torqued would work, but in the context of the thread's subject, that could be confusing.
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torque stick at 80ft lbs is ideal
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 894623)
Actually, I have no idea what the proper technical term is for tightening a fastener so tight it snaps off.
Snapped off works, too. |
Always recheck the torque on brand new wheels/nuts after about 25-30 miles. After that 2nd retorquing, they are good to go until the come back off.
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How about normal lugnuts (like Gorilla lugnuts) with ARP studs?
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