Track brakes
#143
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7 months of DD duty makes me feel a little better.
I've never heard of the pads recommended by the Lotus guys. I'd try the Carbotechs first and see if the life is acceptable - I don't think you're going to see double the life out of the pricier pad.
I've never heard of the pads recommended by the Lotus guys. I'd try the Carbotechs first and see if the life is acceptable - I don't think you're going to see double the life out of the pricier pad.
#145
Savingtion - Yeah I'm not sure if I'd see twice the pad life compared to the blues either, but the Lotus guys do, so it might be worth a shot. They are only $60ish more than the Carbotechs. Still not sure yet, but if I don't go for the CLs, I do know some track miata guys that have had great experience with the XR line of pads, so I might try those, and they are closer in price to the carbotechs.
#147
Is buying two different pads and changing totally out of the question? If you get a Hawk DD pad (HPS/HP+) and a Hawk track pad (HT-10/DTC-60) you only need to swap pads, not re-bed or change rotors. I leave the track pad on the rears all the time and just swap the fronts back and forth.
I'm also more of a fan of the same pad all the way around, especially if you aren't really familiar with the pad. Gives you a good starting point to tweak from.
#148
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I have been on sport brakes with XP8's, and I have had excellent pad life. The current set has 5 track days on them plus roughly 8k street miles and have lots left in them still. Other than the cosmetic issue of some dusting, and occasional squealing, they have been fine as street pads. You will not need to swap pads back and forth for track days, just leave them on.
Of those track days, one was naturally aspirated without brake ducts, the other four boosted with brake ducts. Also, my car is about as heavy as they come.
Of those track days, one was naturally aspirated without brake ducts, the other four boosted with brake ducts. Also, my car is about as heavy as they come.
#150
I haven't confirmed this, but I have been told that the 1.375" Sport caliper fits on the 1.8 bracket, which would allow you to run DTC-60s.
I've spoken with Hawk about having rear pads made for Sport brackets, but the MOQ is a little higher than I would want to swallow for such a low-volume pad.
I've spoken with Hawk about having rear pads made for Sport brackets, but the MOQ is a little higher than I would want to swallow for such a low-volume pad.
I'm currently on stock na6 brakes since my car is stock power. PFC 97 f/r for the track. I like the pad, initial bite is medium, love the modulation, haven't faded them yet.
But, for when I get around to upgrading, I want TSE fronts and sport rears. I happen to have some sport rears laying around so I snapped these pictures.
1.8 on left, sport rear on right.
Sport rear pad on sport rear bracket w/ sport rotor
1.8 pad on sport rear bracket on sport rotor
Looks to me like it will work. Thoughts?
Assuming this works, it'll give me more pad options when the time comes around.
#151
I have been on sport brakes with XP8's, and I have had excellent pad life. The current set has 5 track days on them plus roughly 8k street miles and have lots left in them still. Other than the cosmetic issue of some dusting, and occasional squealing, they have been fine as street pads. You will not need to swap pads back and forth for track days, just leave them on.
Of those track days, one was naturally aspirated without brake ducts, the other four boosted with brake ducts. Also, my car is about as heavy as they come.
Of those track days, one was naturally aspirated without brake ducts, the other four boosted with brake ducts. Also, my car is about as heavy as they come.
#152
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I think the best option for Phil at this time was proposed above. You should consider a milder compound pad for DD and the day before you go to the track switch to your track compound pads. You will likely be bleeding or inspecting things before the track day anyway.
Edit: Your car is far too nice to make a spec Miata out of. Why not just enjoy your 10AE as an HPDE car and later pick up a used Spec car that already has been gutted, caged, and had the sheet metal bent a little? Or get a junker for $500 and gut and cage that? I know where there is one...
Edit: Your car is far too nice to make a spec Miata out of. Why not just enjoy your 10AE as an HPDE car and later pick up a used Spec car that already has been gutted, caged, and had the sheet metal bent a little? Or get a junker for $500 and gut and cage that? I know where there is one...
#153
I think the best option for Phil at this time was proposed above. You should consider a milder compound pad for DD and the day before you go to the track switch to your track compound pads. You will likely be bleeding or inspecting things before the track day anyway.
Edit: Your car is far too nice to make a spec Miata out of. Why not just enjoy your 10AE as an HPDE car and later pick up a used Spec car that already has been gutted, caged, and had the sheet metal bent a little? Or get a junker for $500 and gut and cage that? I know where there is one...
Edit: Your car is far too nice to make a spec Miata out of. Why not just enjoy your 10AE as an HPDE car and later pick up a used Spec car that already has been gutted, caged, and had the sheet metal bent a little? Or get a junker for $500 and gut and cage that? I know where there is one...
RE: Spec miata, my reasoning there is that it'll be about $4500-5500 for me to have it fully prepped and *competitive*. I can't spend that money on another car (either a pre-built or a junker) and have it competitive in the class (at least I haven't figured out how that would be possible). I'm going slow with it though, for now I'm good with doing DEs and still learning a lot about driving better.
#155
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And how long did it take you guys to do a four corner brake pad swap? It took me 40 minutes at Road Atlanta, in the dark, exhausted, in December when it was really cold and really windy, and I was doing it in a parking lot with a mixed bag of hand tools and with Lars (Shuiend) holding a flashlight so I could almost see. It takes 20 minutes with air tools in my driveway.
#157
First, you can be lazy or cheap but not both. I don't want to hear complaints about how much it costs if you are just too lazy to do a minimal amount of wrenching, lol.
And how long did it take you guys to do a four corner brake pad swap? It took me 40 minutes at Road Atlanta, in the dark, exhausted, in December when it was really cold and really windy, and I was doing it in a parking lot with a mixed bag of hand tools and with Lars (Shuiend) holding a flashlight so I could almost see. It takes 20 minutes with air tools in my driveway.
And how long did it take you guys to do a four corner brake pad swap? It took me 40 minutes at Road Atlanta, in the dark, exhausted, in December when it was really cold and really windy, and I was doing it in a parking lot with a mixed bag of hand tools and with Lars (Shuiend) holding a flashlight so I could almost see. It takes 20 minutes with air tools in my driveway.
It takes me by myself with no air tools ~2-3 hours to do pads. With a buddy I can get it done in an hour or so. This won't be an issue once I'm not DDing, but I want something that lasts a while and has a simple bed in, which is why I still think a sintered pad might be best for me. Spend a bit more money so I can be lazy basically