What about the 160*? I don't see that option...
Really it just opens sooner rather than helping with cooling, but yeah, I'd definitely run a gutted thermostat over nothing. My thought is if I do a cool off lap, it'll try to return to 160* over 180* or 195*, and last a while longer the next time I flog it. Then again with proper ducting, reroute, 2.5" radiator, and water wetter, I've gotten rid of my over heating issues for the time being. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by pdexta
(Post 878601)
NA's actually had a 180 degree thermostat stock.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337279484 I don't think the '94-'97 thermotats were any different- NAPA et al all list 190-195° as "OEM Equivalent" |
^ I swore I remember reading 180 for the NA's, but apparently not. Thank you for the correction.
|
I love the video
|
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 878678)
Theseus has a gutted thermostat because it doesn't have any other coolant lines (no heater core, no oil warmer, etc).
Rover has an M-Tuned reroute with the factory oil warmer lines capped, but it still uses a heater core which allows flow before the thermostat opens. Bob |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 878710)
What about the 160*? I don't see that option...
Really it just opens sooner rather than helping with cooling, but yeah, I'd definitely run a gutted thermostat over nothing. My thought is if I do a cool off lap, it'll try to return to 160* over 180* or 195*, and last a while longer the next time I flog it. Then again with proper ducting, reroute, 2.5" radiator, and water wetter, I've gotten rid of my over heating issues for the time being. Bob |
So why is it that having a gutted thermostat is better than nothing? The hose it would go to right after the thermostat is the same size as the hole in the now gutted thermostat. I have just accepted it as common knowledge but does anyone actually have expirience using it both with no thermostat and a gutted unit?
|
Originally Posted by rharris19
(Post 878799)
So why is it that having a gutted thermostat is better than nothing? The hose it would go to right after the thermostat is the same size as the hole in the now gutted thermostat. I have just accepted it as common knowledge but does anyone actually have expirience using it both with no thermostat and a gutted unit?
I'm going to kill my heater lines in the near future because they annoy me. |
Other than the potential it could fail in some way I can’t see a reason for not running a properly functioning thermostat even in a race car and even with all other lines blocked. Maybe somebody can enlighten me.
1) Thermostat allows the engine temp to come up to operating range quickly reducing the amount of time your getting cold piston slap wearing rings and cylinder walls at startup and warm up. Helping things to come to and stay in the proper temp range where blow-by is reduced as well. 2) Thermostat keeps the engine within a temp range better. Doesn’t allow it to drop like a rock when the pace car comes out or something. 3) I find it hard to believe peak cooling capacity is improved without it. A bit of restriction at the location of the thermostat will keep coolant pressure in the head and block higher than what the radiator cap sees which is a good thing to prevent micro boiling and loss of heat transfer from the engine to the coolant. 4) I’m pretty sure circulation can be cut to zero on these engines without issues even if you do block all other bypass routes. The water pump is not positive displacement it will churn around coolant just in the block and head just fine without being able to circulating flow to the radiator. Bob |
Originally Posted by rharris19
(Post 878799)
So why is it that having a gutted thermostat is better than nothing? The hose it would go to right after the thermostat is the same size as the hole in the now gutted thermostat. I have just accepted it as common knowledge but does anyone actually have expirience using it both with no thermostat and a gutted unit?
Bob |
I really hope that car we're racing this weekend has a thermostat.
|
The oil needs to get up to operating temperature to burn off condensation and break down the formation of certain acids that can develop, iirc.
|
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 879073)
I really hope that car we're racing this weekend has a thermostat.
|
Linked to from Joe's thermostat vid. Mind...blown... |
I'm never going to get that 53 seconds back. My useful life is now shorter by almost a minute. Thanks... :vash:
|
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 878782)
I think 160 is too low unless you only ever drive flat out. It likely won’t help any overtemp situation but it could make your car run too cool out of the design range for oil viscosity and piston to wall clearance etc. but that is only a theory guess on my part.
Bob |
M tuned reroute without thermostat. I would prefer to run one but have no idea where to put it.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:07 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands