TTE Build - how busted is this?
 

So I'm looking at moving into TT fairly soon, and I'm trying to build a halfway competitive car for TTE. Here are the main goals for now:

1) Learn the ropes in TT with the mods I have on the car, more or less. Eventually I will add power and move into a different class.
2) Stay in E. My car (with my crappy driving, anyway) will not be competitive in D in AZ.
3) Maybe win a tire or two.

So here's how it classes out right now:

+3 LSD
+2 Borla muffler
+1 Gutted cat
+3 Tein dampers
+2 Springs
+2 Bars (RB front, OEM rear)

Two options for tires (I have 9" wheels):
+6 225 NT-01s (+7, -1 for tire size, base is 235)
+3 205 R6s (+10, -7 for size)

So that's a total of +19 with the NT01s or +16 with the R6s. The R6s would be used, because I'm too cheap to buy any new HoHos right now. I also have an air intake I would throw back on if running R6s.

Free mods: NB2 header, PS delete, DTC60s all around, seats/six points, Koyo radiator, clutch, etc.

A couple of questions:
1) Are there any points I'm wasting with mods that won't buy me anything? Any mods I should do instead?
2) I had to gut the cat because it plugged up. Since I'm already taking points for that, will I see any real gains with the RB race midpipe? Or am I just wasting money at that point?

The cat will not hurt power much. Put in a functioning one and regain your point.

You still take a point for an aftermarket cat. You take a point for gutting a cat too.
If it were me (assuming you have a 1.8 car since youre a *TE base class), I would:

1. Get a dyno reclass. Youll never make it on points, trust me.
2. Use the following breakdown (assuming a TTE base class with no * and ~134whp/2360lbs, which seems to be common)

Free mods:
Megasquirt/DIYPNP
Dump the MAF and use IAT
Header and a SM exhaust

Point mods:
+3 Torsen, OS Giken if you can spend the dollarbucks
+3 shocks
+2 springs
+3 205 R6s
+3 Front air dam
+3 Splitter

That leaves you +2 to spend. You could do swaybars or a rear diffuser. Personally, Id spend it on the rear diffuser before I spent it on swaybars.

Interesting, I hadn't heard of anyone dyno reclassing and staying in TTE, but I'm pretty new to this whole thing. I've been wanting to get a MS and learn how to tune it, but was holding off because I knew I didn't have the points for it.

I don't think 134whp, 2360LB applies on NB. That sounds like a NA Dyno classing.

I used to say Dyno class. But I then heard of a Dyno graph of a zero points long block motor, with only cat and muffler points. It was making a ton of power, right at the limit. Done right. Especially with reflash ECU can make big power

Why wouldnt it? It applies to the NB motor in the NA chassis, because thats what this car was.

+6 for front aero? That's a heck of a lot of points. I would think the front air dam, if done right would give you 90% of the benefit. The other +3 for a splitter probably won't be worth it without some sort of rear aero to balance it. It would have to a pretty fancy rear diffuser to give enough rear aero to balance all that front aero

I couldn't agree more. I ran with just an air damn and a splitter for a few events, and it was VERY unbalanced. I spun at every event.

Then do +3 for a dam and +4 for a wing.

I am pretty sure NB gets worse power to wright ratio than NA. Not much, probably 20-40lb from what I've seen

When dyno reclassing, you mean?

Do any of you run cats in your track cars (assuming you also street drive them)? A couple of people have told me that track duty tends to kill cats due to the heat, which is why I'm hesitant to just throw a new cat on there.

I killed 3 cats on track. I gave up and just stopped using one.

Yeah that's what I was afraid of. I'll probably pick up the RB race pipe if I can find a deal on one.