When was the last time you changed your rear hubs?
#101
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Mazda's front hubs are reboxed NTNs, available for ~$100 in a few places. You can occasionally find Timkens for ~$65, and those are reboxed NTNs as well, but the Timkens may or may not have the ABS ring in the correct place and availability is spotty. I have yet to experiment with anything cheaper than the $65 Timkens.
#103
#104
Rock Auto $21.79 + $15.43 ground shipping to my location. Seems like I almost never find Rock Auto to be the cheapest overall for anything. Big orders don't usually help either because most every individual part gets its own shipping charge shipped from different locations across the country.
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#106
What hubs are people getting when they order the Dorman hubs?
I ordered two hubs at once from Amazon and here is what I got.
One on the left says made in Taiwan has OEM looking studs with 1990-1993 knurl diameter and two threaded holes in the flange.
One on the right says made in China has black studs with 1994+ knurl diameter and no threaded holes in the flange.
I ordered two hubs at once from Amazon and here is what I got.
One on the left says made in Taiwan has OEM looking studs with 1990-1993 knurl diameter and two threaded holes in the flange.
One on the right says made in China has black studs with 1994+ knurl diameter and no threaded holes in the flange.
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#107
Mazda's front hubs are reboxed NTNs, available for ~$100 in a few places. You can occasionally find Timkens for ~$65, and those are reboxed NTNs as well, but the Timkens may or may not have the ABS ring in the correct place and availability is spotty. I have yet to experiment with anything cheaper than the $65 Timkens.
#108
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When this is all figured out, I'm going to make a thread with all the part numbers compiled that I have. Before I do that, I need to get some verification that the below is accurate for ARP wheel studs:
ARP 100-7719 89-93 all corners, front 94-05
ARP 100-7720 rear 94-05 (and where hubs have been replaced since -94)
ARP 100-7719 89-93 all corners, front 94-05
ARP 100-7720 rear 94-05 (and where hubs have been replaced since -94)
#112
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When this is all figured out, I'm going to make a thread with all the part numbers compiled that I have. Before I do that, I need to get some verification that the below is accurate for ARP wheel studs:
ARP 100-7719 89-93 all corners, front 94-05
ARP 100-7720 rear 94-05 (and where hubs have been replaced since -94)
ARP 100-7719 89-93 all corners, front 94-05
ARP 100-7720 rear 94-05 (and where hubs have been replaced since -94)
#114
Ok I just went to the local Napa. Quite an adventure actually because of the I5 bridge collapse over the Skagit river and 70,000 cars worth of daily traffic being transferred to surface streets! The hub they had was Identical to the Taiwan version of the Dorman 930-550 hub I got from Amazon but packaged in a Napa box. It uses 1990-93 studs.
#116
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What hubs are people getting when they order the Dorman hubs? I ordered two hubs at once from Amazon and here is what I got.
One on the left says made in Taiwan has OEM looking studs with 1990-1993 knurl diameter and two threaded holes in the flange.
One on the right says made in China has black studs with 1994+ knurl diameter and no threaded holes in the flange.
One on the left says made in Taiwan has OEM looking studs with 1990-1993 knurl diameter and two threaded holes in the flange.
One on the right says made in China has black studs with 1994+ knurl diameter and no threaded holes in the flange.
Ha! I did something similar. Before I realized there was a difference, I ordered 4 sets of 100-7720 (94+ rears), not realizing there were different part numbers front and rear.
#120
I'm swapping the hubs for new OEM Mazda as the current ones have been on the car ever since it rolled out of the factory.
There are no visibile signs or anything, it would be nice to get them x-rayed, but who cares.
I am having the hubs sanded down very slighly (2/100th) so you can actually slip them in and out of the bearings by hand, without destroying the bearings. I had that done a while ago so I'm not replacing bearings this time.
There are no visibile signs or anything, it would be nice to get them x-rayed, but who cares.
I am having the hubs sanded down very slighly (2/100th) so you can actually slip them in and out of the bearings by hand, without destroying the bearings. I had that done a while ago so I'm not replacing bearings this time.