When was the last time you changed your rear hubs?
#123
Mazda's front hubs are reboxed NTNs, available for ~$100 in a few places. You can occasionally find Timkens for ~$65, and those are reboxed NTNs as well, but the Timkens may or may not have the ABS ring in the correct place and availability is spotty. I have yet to experiment with anything cheaper than the $65 Timkens.
I dont think thats going to work out the way you think it will, but Id be interested in hearing your experience after the fact.
#127
I just received my Rockauto order and got one of the Taiwan and one of the China rear hubs. After reading the posts here I decided to check the measurements around the entire hub. They are virtually the same except for the noted stud design difference between the 90-93 hub and the 94+ hub and the inside spline depth. The 94+ hub splines are cut deeper into the center of the hub vs the 90-93. Given the spline difference on the 94+ hub, that's the one I'm going to use. I contacted Rockauto and emailed them with pics and requested an RMA # and a shipping tag. Hopefully they will have the 94+ one in stock.
#129
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For those of you with more expertise and/or any idea what to look for, is there a reason NOT to just run one of the China and one of the Taiwan hubs if you are swapping out the wheel studs?
Taiwan:
China:
Taiwan:
China:
Taiwan:
China:
Taiwan:
China:
Last edited by Scrappy Jack; 05-31-2013 at 01:04 PM. Reason: Added labels to pictures
#130
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Please disregard my last post. I was apparently having a mental block with regards to the differences in the two hubs.
Since I have 94+ ARP rear studs sitting in a box, I want to keep the Made in China hub and send back the Made in Taiwan hub.
When I look on eBay, all of the pictured hubs appear to be the Made in China version (no additional holes, black studs). Amazon's picture was the Made in Taiwan version (additional holes, silver studs). That leads me to believe that the China version may be a more recent one?
Since I have 94+ ARP rear studs sitting in a box, I want to keep the Made in China hub and send back the Made in Taiwan hub.
When I look on eBay, all of the pictured hubs appear to be the Made in China version (no additional holes, black studs). Amazon's picture was the Made in Taiwan version (additional holes, silver studs). That leads me to believe that the China version may be a more recent one?
#134
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Huge no-no, dude. You likely twisted the splines as you pulled/twisted the stud into the hole. The splines are what retains the stud in the hub, so you run the risk of the stud spinning and losing the lugnut.
Never, ever pull studs into the hubs with lug-nuts. Press them in using a hydraulic press.
Never, ever pull studs into the hubs with lug-nuts. Press them in using a hydraulic press.
#135
Huge no-no, dude. You likely twisted the splines as you pulled/twisted the stud into the hole. The splines are what retains the stud in the hub, so you run the risk of the stud spinning and losing the lugnut.
Never, ever pull studs into the hubs with lug-nuts. Press them in using a hydraulic press.
Never, ever pull studs into the hubs with lug-nuts. Press them in using a hydraulic press.
#137
Huge no-no, dude. You likely twisted the splines as you pulled/twisted the stud into the hole. The splines are what retains the stud in the hub, so you run the risk of the stud spinning and losing the lugnut.
Never, ever pull studs into the hubs with lug-nuts. Press them in using a hydraulic press.
Never, ever pull studs into the hubs with lug-nuts. Press them in using a hydraulic press.
--Ian
#139
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The risks I see in installing a stud using a lug nut are:
-Taking out the splines and ending up with a stud that spins during tightening/loosening.
-Ending up with a stud that isn't completely bottomed out. (This could become a huge problem when the stud gets pulled through further and clamp load is reduced severely)