Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 965176)
It should make it more stable, up till the point where the rears start locking instead of the fronts.
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WTF is up with your fail hand position and shuffle-shits? You look like you're crunking.
We also can't see your feet nor data so we don't know if you're braking like a man or not. |
Originally Posted by GeneSplicer
(Post 965308)
Dam already - just do it... redneck installed, like a cracker...
Seriously, there should be no conideration of installing one... it's a must-have https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1357405760 /SJMarcy |
lol - you jelly I got trubo
Once RacePak is in - or complete car for that fact- I'll have your data... ;) You come try'n hustle me at NOLA sometime, if the GF lets you... I'll even drive the daily AUTOMATIC... wait, that's turboed too... oh well :fawk: |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 941265)
they biggest brakes we can fit all the way around.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 965293)
Its the same adjuster as the balance bar? Interesting I may have to snag one once I can get enough natural rear bias that I dont just have the valve cranked fully open. And after I double check the rules.
Buy this (or the like) install it under the hood as usual Flyin' Miata : Chassis : Brakes : Complete adjustable brake proportioning kit Very carefully cut the adjuster knob off of the threaded rod coming out of the valve. The trick is to trim around the edge of the knob so it can be split open and removed from the threaded rod, so the rod remains intact. Do not cut the threaded rod or damage its threads. Buy one of these: http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/340-4990/10002/-1?sendroicid=bbef8492-2d00-41d6-b158-38db0de2603c&catargetid=1716046196&sendroikwd={key word}&gclid=CL-VrvW30rQCFQpgMgodemwA2g Route the adjuster cable with the knob mounted on the dash, in the cab, wherever you can reach it. Thread the other end of the cable onto the valve rod (the one the knob was cut off of) and loctite it into place. Done |
Does the knob that comes with the basic prop valve kit come off any way without cutting? Or is it somehow glued on? Thanks.
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nevermind, question wasn't really related to OP's topic, started a new thread.
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I am just wondering, if some of the recommendations is to adjust the wilwood to fully bias to the rear, then why can I run without proportioning valve at all? That is, removing the factory proportioning valve.
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Originally Posted by nismo502
(Post 1133025)
I am just wondering, if some of the recommendations is to adjust the wilwood to fully bias to the rear, then why can I run without proportioning valve at all? That is, removing the factory proportioning valve.
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Originally Posted by nismo502
(Post 1133025)
I am just wondering, if some of the recommendations is to adjust the wilwood to fully bias to the rear, then why can I run without proportioning valve at all? That is, removing the factory proportioning valve.
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Originally Posted by nismo502
(Post 1133025)
I am just wondering, if some of the recommendations is to adjust the wilwood to fully bias to the rear, then why can I run without proportioning valve at all? That is, removing the factory proportioning valve.
I didn't notice it, but my wife noticed my rears locked up on a few occasions while at T11 CMP. Also, similar to what Hustler said earlier, the prop valve is really helpful for trail braking, more so than lock-ups...unless you only do your braking in a straight line... |
Originally Posted by chpmnsws6
(Post 965354)
No you don't. You can swap to FC T2 rear calipers and vented rotors in the rear. I wish I could convince someone to build them, but they say they aren't needed (minus Martin at Monster Miata that uses an 11" wilwood disc). :fael: :giggle:
Also means I have the same 11" vented discs all around, so I can "rotate" discs when the fronts get low. Each time I buy 2 replacement discs, I put those on the front and move the worn ones to the rear. And taking one replacement 11" rotor with me to the track covers me for all four corners too. -Ryan |
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