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Another tidbit. The smaller and lighter starter doesn't quite clear the Quaife B series bell housing. It looks like you could do a bunch of grinding to both bell housing and starter frame to make it work. NA starter drops right in so that's what we used.
We're using the Quaife supplied gear position indicator/ temp gauge. So far, it's refusing our attempts to make it read anything other than 6th. The Geartronics aluminum shift ****/load cell is shaped like a *****.
First drive with the Quaife. Noisy as hell. Beautiful noise but its like 105db of gear whine in every gear except 5th which is direct and nearly as quiet as a stock trans. Each shift comes with a mighty clunk. No flat shift yet. Load cell doesn't output a signal that MS likes. Working on a signal converter. Gear position indicator reads "N" in all gears. Have to pull the trans to reach the sensor. Argh.
Upshift is back. Go forward until it stops. Pull release and shove forward into neutral. Do that again and you're in reverse. Even without the flat shift is nutty fast ripping through the gears and just slapping the clutch. Its fitting that this engine has race cams. Soft down low then hits with a whack at 4500. Rough street tune for now. Dyno in a few days.
Are you guys clutching upshifts because you're getting used to it or because the quaife requires it? Drove some crosscarts recently fitted with motorcycle engines/transmissions and only had to use the clutch to get moving, after that it was just a lift to shift up and blip to shift down.
Are you rev-matching on downshifts? I have gotten used to slipper clutch and no engine braking on downshifting my motorcycle so that downshifts don't upset it so much. Wow, I hate to say it, but that might just be worth living with for a dual purpose vehicle; I can't imagine banging shifts like that would ever get old.
The alloy shift **** contains a load cell that outputs a 2-3V signal to indicate for or aft pressure. The Megasquirt MS3 Pro cant use that signal for ign cut without either custom firmware or a signal converter. We're working on the latter. Meanwhile, you can indeed shift without the clutch just by lifting but it's hard on the trans and rough. Quaife explicitly warns against clutchless shifting without a fuel or ign cut. As its not an inexpensive piece of equipment, we're "babying" it by just fanning the clutch until we can get the flatshift working. It'll be ign cut so we'll get nice unburned fuel in the exhaust pops and crackles to go along with the clanks and spur gear whines. We're thinking of sticking the Quaife into Vegas for the 2017 T25. 300whp and the sequential. BOV and EFR intake noises added to this should be an eargasm.
The alloy shift **** contains a load cell that outputs a 2-3V signal to indicate for or aft pressure. The Megasquirt MS3 Pro cant use that signal for ign cut without either custom firmware or a signal converter. We're working on the latter. Meanwhile, you can indeed shift without the clutch just by lifting but it's hard on the trans and rough. Quaife explicitly warns against clutchless shifting without a fuel or ign cut. As its not an inexpensive piece of equipment, we're "babying" it by just fanning the clutch until we can get the flatshift working. It'll be ign cut so we'll get nice unburned fuel in the exhaust pops and crackles to go along with the clanks and spur gear whines. We're thinking of sticking the Quaife into Vegas for the 2017 T25. 300whp and the sequential. BOV and EFR intake noises added to this should be an eargasm.
How much voltage on for and how much voltage on aft?
How much voltage on for and how much voltage on aft?
I will have to check to be certain, but it is 2.5V resting and approximately +/- .7V at the force required to initiate the shift. In an ideal world, we would be able to tweak the point at which ignition cut happens... maybe 3.0V works better than 3.2V, but we won't know until we try it out.
The 2.5V at rest is firm. I can try to get a datalog of the shifts tomorrow if needed. I have it wired on analog input 1. The ideal solution would be a field to input the ignition cut voltage for upshift. I don't think it is needed for downshift, all we have to do is unload the transmission. Emilio may chime in if he wants something for it in software.
If we are going to do a firmware revision then we might as well have an input for decel too. Doing that correctly involves a stepper motor plugged in to the ECU for throttle blipping or DBW. That's actually quite a bit more complex to tune and I don't plan on dealing with it. For street I will just use the clutch for downshifts. Left-foot braking on the street doesn't really work when you're braking lightly. On the track however you are threshold braking and the right foot throttle blip to downshift actually works. So I think we will be able to survive without the decel portion. Since we are sort of blazing new ground here I think in the next year or two there will be a handful of others who step up to utilize the 60 or 90 G in a Miata. They could make use of whatever firmware Dmitri comes up with Ford downshifting if they do DBW or add the stepper motor for throttle blipping.
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