So not 6600ft of elevation, then. The MAP sensor is correct, your boost gauge is correct, but something caused the baro sensor to read a bunch of vacuum on key-on when you started the car and created that log. That explains the discrepancy between your gauge and the MAP sensor. Tunerstudio reads the barometric reading and will correct the "boost" calculation to it. It's worth keeping an eye on the baro correction when tuning, just to be sure its not causing issues like it is for you.

Your high DC% is caused by a maxed-out fuel pump. Upgrade the pump.

 

MSQ is set to independent sensor for baro. OP, do you have an independent baro sensor inside your case?

 

OP does not, since the log does not budge from 109% (onboard baro cars dance a tiny bit). OP, there's your problem.

 

Interestingly the baro corr is set to '0' across the board, yet we still get the 109.4%

 

STATUS REPORT!

Adjusting the "Barometric Correction" setting under "General Settings" from "Two Independent Sensors" to "Initial MAP Reading", has resulting in the following:

• Tunerstudio Boost PSI is much closer to my Boost gauge. It went from recording a max PSI of 19.6 psi, to 16.6 psi - Mystery 1 Solved!
• Tunerstudio Barometer went from reading 80kPa to 99.4 kPa - Mystery 2 Solved!
• Tunerstudio Fuel: Baro cor went from reading 109.4% to 100.3% - Mystery 3 Solved!

Unfortunately, injectors are still hitting 95% and the car is seemingly not reacting to adding more fuel to the map (at 5500rpm). It looks like I'm still hitting the limit of the fuel system.

Thanks again for everyone's help!! I have no idea why I changed my baro correction in the first place, but problem solved. I appreciate it!

Screen capture below and updated log attached.

 

Apologies for thread stealing. I'm having issues with my low boost Rotrex setup, and I've been reading through any troubleshooting thread I can find.

My Barometric Correction is set to "None". Should I change it? If I change it to Initial MAP reading, do I need to change any other values.

Thanks,

 

If you live at sea level, you should be able to turn it on and not change anything. If you live at altitude (say above ~1000ft) you may need to adjust your VE table by a few percent.

 

Won't that depend upon what correction curve you have dialed in?

 

One final yes/no question

My plan is to install a 190LPH-HP Walbro. Since I'm running a MegaSquirt (DIYPNP), I would NOT need to convert to a return-style style system and would NOT need to add an AFPR, correct?

 

Assuming there's no barometric correction, the correction should be 100.0%, or sea-level. For example, OP's logs showed a 9% fuel add at 80kpa of correction, which is like 6600ft of altitude. Small altitude changes, say anything under 1000ft, would result in a pretty small global change, enough that the fueling would probably still be within the error of MAT corrections. Thus, "should need no changes".

 

OK, I see that in his log now. In the MSQ, under BASIC / GENERAL, it is set for Old Method OFF, but the MAP/BARO and the table are set up for the old method (which I totally do not understand). So, it seems that the old method is being used, regardless of the ON/OFF switch setting.

So, while I don't fully understand the settings, your advice seems straightforward, and OP can easily determine if the correction goes to 100% after he turns off the correction.

 

My advice was for poormx, who said he has no baro correction right now. If you tune at sea level with no correction and then add correction, there should be no change.

Carloverx tuned at sea level with a 109% correction and needs to completely retune his car.

 

Yes, you are correct.

You may need to retune areas of the map. And definitely up top.

 

I tuned a few NB with flow force 640cc, 2005 sport NB, turbo with MS.

When running 15psi the injectors are at 70%~

This is just some reference input for you, about the different MAP reading, well, when all is right they read the same...

My NA turbo 460cc running 90%+ @ 15psi.

 

Boost pressure != Fuel usage or power. What turbo? 15 psi on a GT42 is like 600+HP.

 

Dynapack says 260hp

T25 turbo on the 640cc

I run a small td04h-13c dynapck says 250hp

 

260whp at 70%DC is right where a 640cc injector should be.

 

While I have more work to do, and I will possibly end up making a new thread, I feel like asking this here isn't too far off base:

Any guesses why a SEEMINGLY well running, newly built NB, running 65% DC (on FF 650cc's) at 15PSI, 93 oct, with a off brand 2871R would "only" be making ~200whp on a Virtual Dyno?
I know there could be a million reasons, but I SUSPECT my timing/boost is too mild 8.5:1 comp pistons. And while I do plan to continue to work on both (with the help of my det cans/ det muffs), it's obviously not something I want to be guessing at.

Note, my combo DOES have some very low end parts:

• head is stock,
• off brand log manifold and turbo elbow,
• off brand intercooler (full 2.5inch piping)
• exhaust has a cat (albeit from flyin miata through a 2.5inch exhaust)
• off brand muffler

That's still very lower power for that boost number. :(

Log attached in case anyone's interested in some go ol' internet diagnostics/speculation before i start messing with timing and boost again this weekend haha.

p.s. boost leak tests up to the throttle body hold boost rock solid.

(Edited post for injector size from 640 to 650)

 

If you asked that question without putting a new fuel pump in your car, I'm going to reach through the Internet and choke you out.

 

lol oh dis gun be guud