BuT FlAt RiDe BrUh.



mY fReQuEnCiEs BrUh.


sHoUlD I gEt BCs or RaCeLaNds BrUh??/? I HaVe MaThs tO PrOve iT.




High spring rates because better=better regardless of your preconceived notions, which you don't seem to want to unlearn despite asking for (and receiving!) knowledge on the topic.

/Thread.

 

I'm not saying they aren't better... I have asked why, which no one seems to know.

 

... did you read my post? I literally explained why.

 

Sorry man your post was helpful. I got caught up in the dumpsterfire.

I understand swaybars as adding spring rate to roll only. And I would assume that with the stiffer springs that the wheel would lose contact on depressions and I guess I thought the stiff springs would also push the chassis up and unsettle it on bumps.

 

I'm not sure why you would assume that a stiffer spring would cause the wheel to lose contact on depressions, and I've explained how it relates on bumps. Dampers matter more than spring rate for ride quality. Choose spring rate for the body control required. Valve the shocks to match. Done.

 

Stiffer springs mean less static sag. If the depression is deeper than the sag the spring can't force the wheel down once the sag is exhausted at that point the wheel is either in the air or can only fall at gravity.

 

You're assuming the suspension isn't set up to compensate for that. This is the primary reason why most high-rate setups run helpers, such as the 150lb helpers on Xidas.

 

Seriously? We've collectively spent this entire thread explaining to you why people run the rates they run; from damping to geometry to tire choice and even swaybar vs spring tuning . Its as if you're willfully ignoring specific sections of our answers.

 

BuT mY mAtHs

 

They're better because they're faster. Yes it really is just that simple.

 

MT vs OP

 

Illustrations help.
This is Sebring turn 17 on 900/500 Xidas.
Its actually smoother at Sebring than many lighter spring setups I tried. As everything lighter you are on the bumpstops in every corner with the stops trying to absorb the bumps. This is on street tires and very little aero.
Thinking I want to try 1100/600 as with those rates I might be able to get rid of a bit of swaybar, running big bars now.
Run 900/500 on the street everyday with no problems. Note: our roads are very nice. Crappy underfunded overcrowded California or weathered Chicago roads would beat you to death.
Really have to decide what you want to do with car? The whole fallacy of a race car on the street is a compromise.

 

Stiffer springs are better because you arn't slaming into the bumpstops while the car is loaded up from cornering. Which massivly unsettles everything.

 

I mean, if you arent breaking traction, the stiffer the spring is, the more force you have available to push the tire into the pavement.

 

 

 

Would you say stiffer springs really keep you grounded to the ground?

 

 

If you are slamming into the bumpstops when cornering you either need more spring or to raise your ride height or otherwise increase available travel.

A 1000 lb per inch spring at one inch of compression supports 1000 lbs. A 500 lb per inch spring at 2 inches of compression supports the same 1000 lbs.

 

The stiffer the spring is, the more it pushes against the tires natural bounce frequency hysteresis, contact patch conundrum and curve ratio compounded by roll center migration of east african swallows.

I have the math to prove this.