DIY 13-relay Fusebox with all terminals, connectors, etc
DIY 13-relay Fusebox with all terminals, connectors, etc
For sale is a 13 relay, 19 fuse box "kit". The kit includes a brand new, OEM fuse box, 5 8-pin connectors, 120 terminals, 125 seals and 25 cavity plugs.
The fusebox itself is an OEM fuse box, Bussmann 32000 series "Dual Vehicle Electrical Center (DVEC)". They are all custom-made and I believe this one was for a Freightliner semi-truck. I found the fuse boxes cheap on ebay and hunted down all the terminals, connectors, plugs, etc. A lot of retailers had minimum quantities so I ended up buying enough parts for 4 fuse boxes. So now I'm selling 3 and keeping one.
The advantages of using this fusebox vs a generic one is that all the relays and fuses are already connected (see schematic). So you ONLY need to figure out how you want to wire it and crimp 80 terminals. This is in contrast of crimping 40 terminals for a simple 5-relay, 10-fuse box... and that's JUST for hard-wiring it! This one has actual connectors!
What you get:
- Fusebox
- 13 35A/20A 5-pin relays
- 19 different fuses from 5 to 30A (see pictures)
- Wiring diagram that I reverse-enginered (open-source TinyCAD file)
- 5 color-coded and keyed connectors. The connectors only fit one spot on the fusebox
- 5 terminal position assurance things (dunno if they are even needed)
- 60 22-20ga terminals
- 30 18-16ga terminals
- 15 14-12ga terminals
- 15 12-10ga terminals
- 60 22-20ga seals (red)
- 25 18-16ga seals (green)
- 25 14-12ga seals (gray)
- 15 12-10ga seals (blue)
- 25 cavity plugs (I think its 25...)
Weight of the fuse box with all relays and fuses is 2.5lbs. Drawing with dimensions is available here -> http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...XX-X-sales.pdf
$125 shipped continental US, I have 3 "kits" available. Relays alone are worth almost $30, so this is a steal
Schematic:
[url]http://gaiazov.com/photo/mt.net/Fusebox/FuseBox.png[/img] (also available as TinyCAD file)
The fusebox itself is an OEM fuse box, Bussmann 32000 series "Dual Vehicle Electrical Center (DVEC)". They are all custom-made and I believe this one was for a Freightliner semi-truck. I found the fuse boxes cheap on ebay and hunted down all the terminals, connectors, plugs, etc. A lot of retailers had minimum quantities so I ended up buying enough parts for 4 fuse boxes. So now I'm selling 3 and keeping one.
The advantages of using this fusebox vs a generic one is that all the relays and fuses are already connected (see schematic). So you ONLY need to figure out how you want to wire it and crimp 80 terminals. This is in contrast of crimping 40 terminals for a simple 5-relay, 10-fuse box... and that's JUST for hard-wiring it! This one has actual connectors!
What you get:
- Fusebox
- 13 35A/20A 5-pin relays
- 19 different fuses from 5 to 30A (see pictures)
- Wiring diagram that I reverse-enginered (open-source TinyCAD file)
- 5 color-coded and keyed connectors. The connectors only fit one spot on the fusebox
- 5 terminal position assurance things (dunno if they are even needed)
- 60 22-20ga terminals
- 30 18-16ga terminals
- 15 14-12ga terminals
- 15 12-10ga terminals
- 60 22-20ga seals (red)
- 25 18-16ga seals (green)
- 25 14-12ga seals (gray)
- 15 12-10ga seals (blue)
- 25 cavity plugs (I think its 25...)
Weight of the fuse box with all relays and fuses is 2.5lbs. Drawing with dimensions is available here -> http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...XX-X-sales.pdf
$125 shipped continental US, I have 3 "kits" available. Relays alone are worth almost $30, so this is a steal
Schematic:
[url]http://gaiazov.com/photo/mt.net/Fusebox/FuseBox.png[/img] (also available as TinyCAD file)
Reply
0
0
Forgot to mention. To fully assemble the terminals you just need a simple crimper (and a wire stripper is also recommended)
I use this $32 one. You will also need to crimp the power connections, for that, there are different ways.
I use this $32 one. You will also need to crimp the power connections, for that, there are different ways.
Reply
0
0
Do you have a schematic?
Is it expecting dual batteries, which will require to have the connections bridged if using single battery, or is the second set of positive and negative lugs an unfused tap point?
Edit: OMFG ninja posted
Is it expecting dual batteries, which will require to have the connections bridged if using single battery, or is the second set of positive and negative lugs an unfused tap point?
Edit: OMFG ninja posted
Reply
0
0
No its not expecting dual batteries. See the schematic. Its designed so that the top large connector is ground and the other 3 are power. I'm going to wire it so the top connector is always on and the other 3 are going to always on, switched on and the last one, idk.
Look at the schematic. The top connector (pink wire color) is connected to every relay low-power side. The 2nd one (solid red line) powers 4-5 relays (or so), 3rd one (dotted red line) powers another 4-5 relays and the last one powers just a single relay.
There is also one relay that is wired as normally-closed (R11) which is going to be kind of useless.
schematic TinyCAD file and the library that I'm pretty sure you would need
http://gaiazov.com/photo/mt.net/Fuse...ic-tinycad.zip
Look at the schematic. The top connector (pink wire color) is connected to every relay low-power side. The 2nd one (solid red line) powers 4-5 relays (or so), 3rd one (dotted red line) powers another 4-5 relays and the last one powers just a single relay.
There is also one relay that is wired as normally-closed (R11) which is going to be kind of useless.
schematic TinyCAD file and the library that I'm pretty sure you would need
http://gaiazov.com/photo/mt.net/Fuse...ic-tinycad.zip
Reply
0
0
here's a PDF
http://gaiazov.com/photo/mt.net/Fusebox/FuseBox.pdf
soon-ish I'll resize it and make it fit on a single letter page so it can be printed.
http://gaiazov.com/photo/mt.net/Fusebox/FuseBox.pdf
soon-ish I'll resize it and make it fit on a single letter page so it can be printed.
Reply
0
0
I'm not sure what you mean exactly... its an oem fuse box, so asking how many separate circuits is like asking how many separate circuits there are in a miata.
But i'll try to answer
There are 10 relays that are wired "traditionally". That is, you ground some pin on the connector, power comes out on some other pin. Of those 10, three are wired together (e.g. grounded by the same pin, those are R1, R2 and R3)
There are 2 relays that have both power in/power out on the connector. That is, you ground a pin a connector, relay is energized, and 2 other pins on the connector are shorted.
Finally there is one relay that is normally closed. That is, when you energize it, it opens. Kind of useless, imo.
The "normal" 10 relays are as follows:
But i'll try to answer
There are 10 relays that are wired "traditionally". That is, you ground some pin on the connector, power comes out on some other pin. Of those 10, three are wired together (e.g. grounded by the same pin, those are R1, R2 and R3)
There are 2 relays that have both power in/power out on the connector. That is, you ground a pin a connector, relay is energized, and 2 other pins on the connector are shorted.
Finally there is one relay that is normally closed. That is, when you energize it, it opens. Kind of useless, imo.
The "normal" 10 relays are as follows:
Code:
Connector #1 relays (solid red, bottom on schematic) R13 (F20, 25A) Connector #2 relays (dotted red, 2nd from bottom on schematic) R7 (F11, 15A) R9 (F12, 15A) R6 (F9, 15A) R8 (F10, 15A) R2 (F2, 20A) Connector #3 relays (solid red, 3rd from bottom on schematic) R1 (unfused) R3 (unfused) R4 (F5, 20A) R10 (F14, 15A) Connector #3 also has 3 fused outputs: F21 (25A) F4 (7.5A) F1 (7.5A)
Reply
0
0
Yeah, that's what I meant. How many inputs activates how many outputs. I would be all over this, but not enough circuits for the race car. Mmh need to look into it more!
I'm not sure what you mean exactly... its an oem fuse box, so asking how many separate circuits is like asking how many separate circuits there are in a miata.
But i'll try to answer
There are 10 relays that are wired "traditionally". That is, you ground some pin on the connector, power comes out on some other pin. Of those 10, three are wired together (e.g. grounded by the same pin, those are R1, R2 and R3)
There are 2 relays that have both power in/power out on the connector. That is, you ground a pin a connector, relay is energized, and 2 other pins on the connector are shorted.
Finally there is one relay that is normally closed. That is, when you energize it, it opens. Kind of useless, imo.
The "normal" 10 relays are as follows:
But i'll try to answer
There are 10 relays that are wired "traditionally". That is, you ground some pin on the connector, power comes out on some other pin. Of those 10, three are wired together (e.g. grounded by the same pin, those are R1, R2 and R3)
There are 2 relays that have both power in/power out on the connector. That is, you ground a pin a connector, relay is energized, and 2 other pins on the connector are shorted.
Finally there is one relay that is normally closed. That is, when you energize it, it opens. Kind of useless, imo.
The "normal" 10 relays are as follows:
Code:
Connector #1 relays (solid red, bottom on schematic) R13 (F20, 25A) Connector #2 relays (dotted red, 2nd from bottom on schematic) R7 (F11, 15A) R9 (F12, 15A) R6 (F9, 15A) R8 (F10, 15A) R2 (F2, 20A) Connector #3 relays (solid red, 3rd from bottom on schematic) R1 (unfused) R3 (unfused) R4 (F5, 20A) R10 (F14, 15A) Connector #3 also has 3 fused outputs: F21 (25A) F4 (7.5A) F1 (7.5A)
Reply
0
0
All 3 sold.
However, I'm doing another run. I'll have 2 or 3 this time. It will be at least a week before all the parts arrive. Same deal as before, $125 shipped.
Let me know if you want one!
However, I'm doing another run. I'll have 2 or 3 this time. It will be at least a week before all the parts arrive. Same deal as before, $125 shipped.
Let me know if you want one!
Reply
0
0
