My TSE BBK has been good, but the inboard pads usually wear much more quickly than the outboard pads. I’m using PFC 97 compound. Been thinking about just switching the inside and outside pads halfway through their life cycle, anyone else doing this or know of any good reasons not to?

 

If the pads are flat / true to the rotor face you can. Usually each pad wears a special pattern with the rotor face, and will take a while to re-"machine" itself in, causing not so hot brakes till it does. I'm with you on the usage tho' given the pad cost.

 

Do you have brake ducts on the inside?

 

^ I do not. Would they slow down the inside pad wear?

 

If you have the stock back plates and no ducting then it is quite possible the higher ware is due to inner pads running hotter.

First step would be removing the backing plates and a 2 1/2" to 3" duct from a high pressure area (rad opening or fog light hole) to the center of the rotor. Just supplying a change in air in the area of the rotor will help. If this is not enough, then consider something like modified back plates to support the end of the brake duct...

Switching inner to outer pads should not be an issue once they have bedded in and again match the rotor surface (as mentioned in an earlier post).

 

Do you still have splash shields in place? If so, remove them.

 

Admittedly i'm on stock brakes, but ducting and new pins, boots and re-grease fixed my uneven wear on PFC97s. Unless the Wilwoods have a sticky piston, I'd expect it' a hotter inside pad due to the outside getting fresh air from the wheel.

 

Sounds like heat is probably the culprit. I'm going to swap rotors the next time I do pads, so when I do that I'll pull the splash shields off and see if I fare any better. If not, I'll add some cooling ducts.

 

@sixshooter and all: with PF-11's, how many pad lives do you get per rotor life? Or stated the other way, how often do you need to change rotors? My limited personal experience was when the pads were done, so were the rotors. Both new at the same time.

 

I think you will get answers all over the road due to different rotor diameter, construction, and design.

but I am interested in knowing more about removing the backing plate. I thought it would have helped funnel more air onto the rotor instead of preventing it.

 

Andy. I thought the same thing, based on the scoopy shape of the thing.

Yet, common wisdom from uncommon folks say pull them off, so I did so when I had hubs off for re-pack. Pulled the rear ones too. Have not thrown them away, however.

 

When I get around to installing my front and rear brake upgrade that is sitting in my garage I intend to remove the rear dust shield entirely and I plan to remove half of the front one so that it can still protect my ball joints and tie rods. But that is subject to fitment of the front brake kit.

 

Pad and rotor life vary by horsepower, Tire Choice, and ducting of course. I got four pads to the rotor on the cheap wilwoods previously. With 3 in ducts and higher-quality directional Wilwood rotors now I expect it may be even better, except that I'm also running a higher power level.

As for the splash Shields, they definitely restrict the airflow to the inside of the rotor. They are designed to keep puddles from splashing water on your hot rotors from the opposite wheel and causing rotor warping in Street driving.

As for the little lips protruding, they don't hang out into any air flow. The rotors are designed like impellers flow air from the inside to the outside. They have to allow air to come in someplace so they allow one little spot for it to enter. Much better for it to have less restriction and better airflow across both sides of the face. But feel free to do whatever makes you comfortable.

 

For the record, I'm running about 180hp and I've gone through 3 sets of the PFC 97 pads on the same Wildwood "economy" rotor ring. I bought the nicer directional vane rotors for my next brake job; maybe they will improve airflow (along with removing the dust shield) and improve my pad life.