I purchased the car a little over 2 years ago for next to nothing. The core of it all was solid with the exception of one little rust hole in the trunk area just not easy on the eyes by any means. The intent for it being The car was stripped down to a bare shell and received a full nut and bolt restoration. The rust hole trunk area was cut out and whole new sheet metal panel welded in, along with shaving the antenna hole from the rear quarter before proceeding with the body work. The trunk, underside, and cabin area were all cleaned up and treated before being recoated. A cowl cover with windshield reservoir was fabricated, along with a radiator cowl, engine belly pan w/ side plates to force air through radiator, COP conversion, intake, rear diff brace, rear frame brace, full 2.25" 409ss exhaust with Catalytic converter and resonator + muffler. The parcel shelf was remade with proper speaker holes. The motor was completely resealed, including head gasket and freeze plugs but ran fine so bottom end and valve train was left alone. Transmission was completely resealed and received a short shifter. Differential was cleaned out and completely resealed. The motor has since been pulled back out to receive bearings, rings, guides, head studs, crank polish and bigger clutch to make way for a t25 to be added to the mix. So outside of the transmission and differential internals, everything has either been replaced.
(Specs are what it will be post turbo and Im sure forgotten something (so if not listed at a minimum assume its been replaced or rebuilt)

Body
New windshield
Paint and body
Shaved antenna
Satin blacked out chrome
New top, gutter, and cables
BCF Rear deck speaker panel
BCF Cowl panel
BCF Radiator Cowl
Washer reservoir relocated
Racingbeat bumper
Power Window/lock conversion
New AC compressor
New AC lines made (could not obtain new replacements)
New Condenser and drier
Interior / exterior lights updated to LED
New OEM clutch / brake / gas pedal cover pads
Seats recovered
A-pillar pod
Turbosmart vac/boost gauge
Autometer AFR gauge

Audio
Kenwood head unit
Kicker 6.5 (door)
Kicker 5.75 (rear package tray)
Kicker 10" sub
Rockville 5ch amp
Sound matting treatment

Brakes
Stoptech directional drill and slotted rotors
Stoptech pads
New master cylinder
SS lines

Steering / Suspension / Aero
Coil overs
Poly bushings throughout
New ball joints
New inner / out tie-rods
New rack and pinion
Pump rebuilt
New power steering lines
Stock sway bars with new poly links
BCF Engine belly pan (with functional damning for radiator air flow)
BCF Rear LCA suspension brace
BCF Rear frame brace
NRG quick release
NRG steering wheel

Driveline
SS clutch line
Front cover reseal
Tail-shaft seal
Excedy upgraded clutch and pressure plate
New flywheel
Differential resealed
Cobalt Short shifter
MR2 Spyder wheels
BCF COP conversion
New rings, bearings, and valve guides
Crank polished
Intake / Exhaust gasket matched
Lifters rebuilt
ARP head studs
New gaskets (all)
New dizzy
New freeze plugs
New alternator
New Starter
New water pump
New thermostat
All new silicone coolant and vacuum hoses
BCF Catch can
BCF T25 turbo setup with FMIC on Greddy EMB w/ boost reference
T25 turbo manifold
2.25" 409ss header back exhaust with catalytic converter, resonator, and muffler (original designed to for all sections to be able to be replaced with stock replacement parts but am going to switch it to all VBand)


Here is the car as received:

 

Some of the processes:

 

Some interior process:

 

AC Stuff:




Wheels:







Some misc:











Stereo stuff:

 

Belly pan:






Cowl:












Radiator cover:




Convertible:

 

COP:






Intake:







Exhaust:

 

Rear Bracing:








Steering and suspension:








First round of engine stuff:

 

Great work so far, I love a good resto! Glad to see you save this thing. Any pics of how you did the rust fix in the trunk, I assume that was on the battery tray area? Mine has the same issue and I'm feeling decent enough with my welder to fix it this year.

 

Thanks. It was actually the driver side. My assumption is the top drain came off and it was just dumping and sitting till it finally rotted out. It sat outside untouched for a couple years prior to me. While there was some minimal surface rust here and there that was the only place that had actual rot. I bent up a replacement panel, cut it out at the spot welds, spotted in and seam sealed the new one. then I punched a hole in it and threw in a brass bulk head fitting for the drain. I think i have a couple pictures of it. If I do I'll post them for you.

 

That was so satisfying to scroll through, killer job on the metal work.

 

I was able to find these in my camera roll.
Shots of the rot. you can see in the first photo where the drain tube was just sitting there.



From underside


starting to cut the rot out back to the original seams


Replacement panel


Test fitting


Finished product (bottom side photo before new drain put in)

 

Thanks. I still have all my CAD files for everything I made. When the car is completely done I may throw together a store for them if people have interest. I may pick up a NB or find one for use to make sure those parts could work with an NB also or make a revision version to them but I know it will be a while before I get around to the task, unless someone specifically wanted something. I had a request to revise the COP for someone's 1.6L but they fell through

 

Here is what has been going on

Pulled the motor back out:







Top end - gasket matched the ports, knife edge the runners, new valve guides, rebuild the lifter, and cleaned up the casting lines to aid in oil flow back.







After a bath





Bottom end - polished crank, honed cylinders, new bearings and rings, oil drain added to pan, and ARP head studs.

 

Engine is back, coolant reroute done, turbo bits fabricated.


Made a gonzo nose to reroute the lower and made an aluminum hard pipe for the upper




























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Nice work! What's the clearance like between the pulleys/belts and the lower reroute? I assume the fitting on the back is for the turbo water return?

 

Thanks. Clearance is plenty for comfort. I would have like it like another 3/4'-1" out but that was the length of the bend and I didn't care enough to weld in a piece that small. Yes on the water fittings. One coming off the front neck and one on the lower housing.

 

still slowly ticking forward. I have finished the plug-n-play harness and getting the gauges in. Put all the na things back on and did the initial break in of the engine and have probably put about 300-400 miles on it. The only thing keeping me from moving forward with finishing the turbo installation is a heat soak fuel issue. The car runs great if you start it fresh (the longest trip thus far probably 35-40 miles continuous driving with no issues.) But if I shut the car off and it heat soaks for an hour or so it seems to be throwing the fuel pressure off when I try to go drive it after. You can tell when you go over a certain throttle position / rpm. It has a new pump, injectors, filter, and regulator. All of which have been rechecked and are fine. I went ahead and pulled the hot start FPR control valve out of the equation and ran the vacuum line straight from the manifold to the FPR. I drove it around like that today and it did not seem to really have any hot start issues and did not act up while driving it. If it continues to be fixed I will move forward. Curious if anyone has a lead on a replacement unit for that control valve just in case?