First time posting here!
I've got an 1998 JDM NB Mx-5, it's a 1.8 with a 6 speed and a Torsen. 190k km.
So far I've done -
Timing Belt and Water Pump (less than 300km ago), all fluids too.
Alloy Rad
Stoney Racing Silicone Hoses with T-Bolts
Meister R ZetaCRD Coilovers
16 inch stock NB wheels on Nankang NS2Rs
New discs and rotors all round.
M2 Backbox.
Braided Brake Lines and just some Delrin Door Bushes.

Looking to install a Turbo Kit this year.
Thinking of this one from Mx-5 Parts Northern Ireland https://mx5partsni.com/products/mx5-...40935387005118, or a BOFI one. Aiming for 250-300bhp.
Aware I'll realistically need to change the clutch too and was looking at a Competition Stage 2 Clutch, would it be worth changing the flywheel too?
There's also a guy locally selling a few bits locally that could be got at a good price, I'd just need to piece together the rest of the kit..
Kraken 1.8 low mount manifold, 3" downpipe (+ vband adapter and full set) and a refurbed Garrett T25.

Anything I'm missing?
Car was quite unreliable up until recently, lot of coolant issues - but since fitting the hoses and replacing the waterpump I haven't had any issues.

As I'm sure most of you have noticed, I am very, very new to this!

 

You’ll need forged rods for that power level, and the low mount kraken kit is more work than it’s worth. I’d get a different ECU than the ME, otherwise everything looks ok.

 

mmmh okay not sure why I had it in my head that that was top of the range for stock internals!
Not really something I fancy messing with so I’ll probably aim for a lamp post instead of the stars.
Duly noted on the Kraken.
Also probably need to look into the ECU options a little more, thank you

 

The first question I always ask is, Are you prepared and able to spend 3 times the money you THINK it will cost?

The second is are you ready to buy a new motor if it doesn't work out?

If yes to both? Welcome to the world of Miata Turbo................

 

possible change of plans, a HKS Kit has come up for sale near me and at 1k it’s very tempting, it’s got a T25.
Will still need a clutch, lightened flywheel, ECU, injectors and an intercooler but even if I’m making less power I still think it’s hard to passover!

 

The HKS kit with the top mount turbo? Not much room for a turbo on that one. It has to be small or won't fit beneath the bonnet. I hope it comes with a good downpipe because there's limited space.

 

Sort of depends on what you are doing with it, but here's somethings I've thought of

-Engine management
-Tuning
-Oil cooler (if tracking)
-Heat sheilding for the turbo bits (everything melts when it gets to 700+ F in your engine bay).
-Coolant reroute

You can technically get to 300hp on a stock block, you will just need to plan on an engine replacement AND using BOFI's delayed torque curve tuning style. Honestly, for the street, 230 to 250whp feels right in a no TC short wheel base miata. Guys who are doing more than that are crazy bastards and I love them, but you dont need that to have a really fun time with the car. I ended up with a fully built motor that I got the deal of a life time on and I still only rip around 250whp on the street. I can get sideways at a moment's notice. Good luck!


EDIT: I see that kit you linked has injectors and EMS, so plan on a tune and the rest of the exhaust. Like BLKbird said above, you'll spend more than you think getting all the last bits done. Hell, I'm still replacing odds and ends and I'm almost a year and a half post turbo install. I also track my car as vigoriously as my skills allow so that's a whole 'nother issue.

 

Top recommended tuner in my area suggested a Link ECU, for him to buy the ECU, fit an air temp sensor and map it that's coming out around €2400

 

Yeah, I should say, with a laggy turbo, 300hp is possible with a stock block. Just beyond my comfort level, and IMO not a great power band. I prefer a turbo that hits hard by 3000, fully spooled (300-400) by 4000rpm, and can hold it to redline. The turbos that bend rods can be fully spooled by 2500 or even lower, even if they're only making 220-250hp. And the ones that'll allow stock rods to survive are fully spooled by maybe 5000, just not a great feeling.

 

My 6258 is fully spooled by roughly 4000RPM up to about 15psi. I recently have been playing with new internal wastegates and based on how I have it set up, forces lower spooling in the mid range, but as a result, there's no fall off feeling at the top in. It's got it's own fun feeling when you pull harder and harder all the way to redline rather than having a huge dump of torque immediately and then gradually feel a fall off.

 

Fully spooled should be around 21psi. Try harder, lol

 

Oh man, if I could only find a tuner that didn't sound like a quack or would actually call me back! The last one I used came highly recommended and then basically everyone here **** on how much timing advance he put in. Also he took 10 hours to go from a decent street tune with good AFRs to slowly work up to 15psi. THe other guy I used, which I think is much better, is just too busy. I'd love to hear any recommendations in Central Florida you've used!

 

Have you tried Steve's Remote Tuning? He tuned a couple of my friends turbo miatas with mega squirt. He's on facebook.

 

afaik boost dont always bend rods. torque can do it to.
220whp is more than enough for street driving and safe overtaking. so i would start there.

regarding ECU, i use Maxxecu myself. i like it. great support and great hardware. not sure how much support you have where you live but they cover alot of europe atleast.