2560R or 2860r?
I am at a cross road right now with picking out a turbo for my 94 NA8. Given my stock bottom end, I do not want to go past the 250tq limit.
I don't know whether to go with a 2560R or a 2860R (.64 or .84 AR)(IWG). I'm considering those two turbo sizes from the following companies: Pulsar (Gen II, New), Arashi (Kuro line, New), Garrett (GT line & used), or even an ebay turbo (MaxPeedingRods, Mixed feelings).
With the exception of MaxPeedingRods, they all share a similar price point of $600-$1,000.
I would like to get the T51r Mod as I like the way it sounds on my BorgWarner EFR for my BMW. Pulsar offers it and the other turbos I'd have to get it machined for $375.
What has been your experience with those turbos mentioned above?
Which turbo/brand has survived 12–15 psi for a season without shaft play or boost-creep? (Looking to learn how to drift at my local racetrack).
What's been the preference when looking to hit the canyons or coast line for some spirited driving?
I live in California, so my 91 octane isn't the best but I do have high quality E85 15 minutes away.
(For context, my parts list is down below)
Cast-iron T25 log manifold, ID1000 injectors, (New, stock 2007) BMW 335i in-tank LPFP Cartridge, M-Tuned rail + Aeromotive AFPR, SpeedyEFI ECU, FMIC 24 × 7 × 3 in, Downpipe/Test pipe with an unknown muffler, Fidanza flywheel (Pending Clutch/Pressure Plate), 2 row aluminum radiator with coolant reroute kit, Innovate MTXL + , and a glowshift boost gauge.
I don't know whether to go with a 2560R or a 2860R (.64 or .84 AR)(IWG). I'm considering those two turbo sizes from the following companies: Pulsar (Gen II, New), Arashi (Kuro line, New), Garrett (GT line & used), or even an ebay turbo (MaxPeedingRods, Mixed feelings).
With the exception of MaxPeedingRods, they all share a similar price point of $600-$1,000.
I would like to get the T51r Mod as I like the way it sounds on my BorgWarner EFR for my BMW. Pulsar offers it and the other turbos I'd have to get it machined for $375.
What has been your experience with those turbos mentioned above?
Which turbo/brand has survived 12–15 psi for a season without shaft play or boost-creep? (Looking to learn how to drift at my local racetrack).
What's been the preference when looking to hit the canyons or coast line for some spirited driving?
I live in California, so my 91 octane isn't the best but I do have high quality E85 15 minutes away.
(For context, my parts list is down below)
Cast-iron T25 log manifold, ID1000 injectors, (New, stock 2007) BMW 335i in-tank LPFP Cartridge, M-Tuned rail + Aeromotive AFPR, SpeedyEFI ECU, FMIC 24 × 7 × 3 in, Downpipe/Test pipe with an unknown muffler, Fidanza flywheel (Pending Clutch/Pressure Plate), 2 row aluminum radiator with coolant reroute kit, Innovate MTXL + , and a glowshift boost gauge.
I've been doing a bit of turbo research lately, so I'll jump in.
The new GTX (or PTX) GenII 2860 with the .64 doesn't give up much to a GT2560RS in terms of spool and response, and has a lot more headroom. There's some dynos from Andy Floyd on this forum that show that if you search around. That said the 2860 is definitely overkill for a stock block and overboosting on accident, etc., is a lot more likely to result in engine damage.
I think if I were 100% never going to build a block I'd stick with the good ole 2560. If you think that you might want more, the Gen2 2860 will future proof things a bit.
The new GTX (or PTX) GenII 2860 with the .64 doesn't give up much to a GT2560RS in terms of spool and response, and has a lot more headroom. There's some dynos from Andy Floyd on this forum that show that if you search around. That said the 2860 is definitely overkill for a stock block and overboosting on accident, etc., is a lot more likely to result in engine damage.
I think if I were 100% never going to build a block I'd stick with the good ole 2560. If you think that you might want more, the Gen2 2860 will future proof things a bit.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Chiburbian
DIY Turbo Discussion
11
Mar 28, 2013 07:21 PM





