I recently purchased a second Autocross car (STU MSM) now classed in AST… so I am contemplating build a “fun” XB car. My main Autocross car is an SSC BRZ that I do well in.

Anyone have experience with the reliability of the Pulsar turbos for Autocross type environments?
most of the autocross builds I see have EFR turbos.

current plan is built bottom end that I have already acquired, and putting a stock spare MSM head on with upgraded valve springs.
turbo setup I have already Acquired a Kraken Manifold/ DP for a T25 and GT turbo downpipe. I am leaning towards using a Pulsar Turbo, but the manifold could also be used for an EFR6258.

not sure I have a power goal, but something in the low 300’s and upper 200’s would be plenty I believe.

So pulsar turbo PSR2860R GenII or spend the extra money on the EFR?

 

As someone who drives a "fun" XB car and is planning on going to a PSR2860 Gen II in the near future, I personally don't have concerns about the reliability of the Pulsar. At ~$700 you could buy 2, have a spare and still be cheaper than the EFR, no? I don't have first hand experience, so take it with a grain of salt, but from what I've seen the Pulsar's seem to have a decent reputation.

Unless you've cut your fenders and are running something larger than a 245 I think you're about right with the upper 200's power goal. Obviously that's going to depend on how big of a site you have and the surface there. I've been running around 220 whp this season and I think running much over 250 is going to be diminishing returns. I'm already sitting on limiter for a while on a lot of our small courses.

@Fireindc just grabbed one a month or so ago, so he might have some thoughts.

Would you need a different downpipe for the EFR as well?

 

Big open, concrete lots. and with the 6spd/4.1 combo I was just going to stay in 3rd and hope for the best!



EFR downpipe is completely different due to wider housing and sharper bend down firewall and it’s vband vs 5bolt.

 

Gotcha, at first I thought you were saying the whole manifold/dp would work which is why I was confused.

Dang, jealous of that lot... I've debated on going to a different rear ratio and running in 3rd as well, with that much space I think you'd be wise to target 3rd gear (which it sounds like you've already figured out).

 

I've got one, though I don't have many miles on it. I'm very impressed with it so far coming from older garret GT tech (gt2860rs). I went with the smaller housing. It's definitely making more power than it was (used to make 315whp on e85 at 200kpa) and spools faster. My buddy who has more experience with EFRs rode in my car and said it felt like an EFR, so that's something, considering the turbo is a fraction of an EFR price. I haven't dyno'd it yet but there is more left in the turbo, the EBC duty cycle is way lower than it was on the old turbo at the same PSI.

I bought mine after a few buddies at my local track (road course) were running them reliably and recommended them (honda guys), that and doing some research on them. I don't see why it wouldn't be a reliable turbo for you and they have pretty good warranties, so I'd say give it a shot!

 

thank you for that feedback! Did you have to port the IWG? Or suffered from boost creep issues with it? Stamped or billet actuator?

 

Can it hold for 90 seconds to 120 seconds of on and off throttle? I don't think that would be an issue even for the cheapest turbo.

 

I did not port the IWG. Billet WG. Massive boost creep, 7.4psi spring but can't make less than 12psi on the top-end (and I'm at 7200ft elevation). But I just let it eat. I had similar boost creep issues on my gt2860rs since going e85. Would be total danger mode for a stock-rod block. So far I've had it up to 19psi and it makes a ton of power, no issues, and has lots of headroom (might play with 20+ psi in the future)

Stock block car I'd stick with an oldskool tried and true 2560.