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Tuning help. Review of tune. What are your thoughts? Need help
***apologies if in the wrong place***
Hello,
I am looking for help, pointers and the like…. I recently completed adding a turbo.
I have a base 94 with MSPNP2
Kraken build, gtx2860rs,
stock bottom end.
OEM/Standard ignition.
Bosch ev14 700cc
bkr7eix-11 @ .28-.3.
DW100 fuel pump.
waste gate actuator on turbo is set for 8.5 psi (Sourced from charge pipe approx. 6 in from comp outlet).
I hope I didn’t miss anything.
I truly appreciate your time and efforts! no intentions of ignorance or arrogance just looking to learn something and play with my car before its cold.
These tunes started as base tunes from DIYAUTOTUNE. I’ve tried to dial in dead times and all other initial setup from info I found on forums, YouTube ie the guide on here, car passion channel and Grok to get the most from what info is out there. Unfortunately, I’m not really grasping what is needed and what the logs should be telling me. yesterday it seemed to idle well… And today it sucks!
Also…
1. Idk if this qualifies as hard to start...probably, but regardless of cold start or not the car usually requires a bit of throttle pedal to fire, then need to let pedal out slowly for idle to be smooth. Other than that, it idles very good.
2. After much time with idle configuration.. which seemed good, I took it for a drive. The car bogs down with throttle changes/pressure. If you can “Catch the stumble” or If gentle on throttle inputs you can drive around. Driving around in low rpms is ok but if pushed to the point of making any boost or the turbo even starts spooling up engine bogs down, hesitates and sputters BAD. To the point of shutting off, especially if pedal pressure is maintained. again, I can hear it start to spool and then the engine falls on its face. wth!
Thank you for your ANY help and advice! I mean anything helps. This cars gonna be great once I unlock the twirling thing in the front!!
Rob in GB
Last edited by GBWhIteMIATA; Sep 1, 2025 at 12:34 PM.
Reason: change format/coherence... hope to be engaged by some knowledgeable members
Looks like it just needs a lot of tuning. Most looks ok, but there's a lot I would alter. Idle ignition isn't doing anything, the setting you want is "adaptive, adder", then give it -10/10 degrees of authority +/- 100 RPM "delta" from target. Speaking of target, increase it to ~950, 850 is stock but will vibrate quite badly with anything but stock motor mounts, which most of us don't have due to shifting issues. Initial values table for idle is referencing MAT, I'd change that to CLT. It doesn't change with temperature, so it doesn't matter much right now, but later you'll want that to increase with cooler temperatures. You're not actually entering closed loop idle due to the map threshold, which is set to 25 and you're idling at 23. I'd change this to 20.
You have some cylinder trims enabled, which I didn't even know was possible on MS2, so good for you! But until it's fully tuned, I would zero these out. Looks like it's only cyl. 2,3, and 4. Take all these tables and set them to 100. However once you do this, I'd recommend changing sequential settings to the below. Not sure where you got the info to change this, but I've never seen differently:
The "injector drivers" ? tab has me wondering if you're running on 2 cylinders? They apparently require hardware modifications to use the 3rd and 4th injector driver. Do you have these modifications?
Looks like it just needs a lot of tuning. Most looks ok, but there's a lot I would alter. Idle ignition isn't doing anything, the setting you want is "adaptive, adder", then give it -10/10 degrees of authority +/- 100 RPM "delta" from target. Speaking of target, increase it to ~950, 850 is stock but will vibrate quite badly with anything but stock motor mounts, which most of us don't have due to shifting issues. Initial values table for idle is referencing MAT, I'd change that to CLT. It doesn't change with temperature, so it doesn't matter much right now, but later you'll want that to increase with cooler temperatures. You're not actually entering closed loop idle due to the map threshold, which is set to 25 and you're idling at 23. I'd change this to 20.
You have some cylinder trims enabled, which I didn't even know was possible on MS2, so good for you! But until it's fully tuned, I would zero these out. Looks like it's only cyl. 2,3, and 4. Take all these tables and set them to 100. However once you do this, I'd recommend changing sequential settings to the below. Not sure where you got the info to change this, but I've never seen differently:
The "injector drivers" ? tab has me wondering if you're running on 2 cylinders? They apparently require hardware modifications to use the 3rd and 4th injector driver. Do you have these modifications?
Thank you, Curly for having a look and for some good suggestions. I question though why what I found and what you suggest are so far off? the sequential injection degrees and such. anyways.. I found so much info its essentially information overload.
The injector driver set to "additional drivers" was a mistake on my part. I do not have any modifications to support that.
Okay so i made the changes.
started the car it started beautifully. was very promising!
made some fuel VE adjustments to fix afrs that are were too rich during idle
shut car off shut hood and now the car won't start.
**Side note*** strange issue with PC turning off WIFI adapter had to figure out how to re "enable" to share logs and such.. no clue how it was turned off
That looks way better. Your MAP looked low before, now it's looking like all 4 cylinders are working. This is the idle advance timing I was referring to, I probably didn't describe it very well.
Then I'd also change your EGO settings to the below. It'll keep EGO working at idle, but not anywhere else. It also limits it to 10% +/- authority. If you find it idling at 110% or 90%, select your idle cells and multiply them by 1.1 or 0.9 respectively.
Once your finished with all this, drive like you're on ice and turn on VEAL (VE analyze live) with the below settings, and drive the car around like you're driving on ice, smooth, consistent inputs. Click over to the "status" tab on this same screen, and you'll see what cells you've hit, try to hit them all eventually. I could nit pick the rest of your tune for hours, but this'll get you going with safe fueling and hopefully feel better than originally.
That looks way better. Your MAP looked low before, now it's looking like all 4 cylinders are working. This is the idle advance timing I was referring to, I probably didn't describe it very well.
Then I'd also change your EGO settings to the below. It'll keep EGO working at idle, but not anywhere else. It also limits it to 10% +/- authority. If you find it idling at 110% or 90%, select your idle cells and multiply them by 1.1 or 0.9 respectively.
Once your finished with all this, drive like you're on ice and turn on VEAL (VE analyze live) with the below settings, and drive the car around like you're driving on ice, smooth, consistent inputs. Click over to the "status" tab on this same screen, and you'll see what cells you've hit, try to hit them all eventually. I could nit pick the rest of your tune for hours, but this'll get you going with safe fueling and hopefully feel better than originally.
Thanks again for looking over the tune setup and for the safe start.
Unfortunately, I'm now in a no start situation. Might that idle advance mistake of mine have done something? interesting it started. and now doesn't. Now it seems it may only firing on a couple cylinders.
No, that's only active after closed loop idle is active, so it has to be above your cranking RPM, below your TPS threshold, etc, etc, and I believe it has to stay there for a delay of 2 seconds, so it won't be entering CL idle when cranking.
Check the basics, check for spark, fuel, compression, and make sure through all this your cranking voltage isn't below ~9 volts.
No, that's only active after closed loop idle is active, so it has to be above your cranking RPM, below your TPS threshold, etc, etc, and I believe it has to stay there for a delay of 2 seconds, so it won't be entering CL idle when cranking.
Check the basics, check for spark, fuel, compression, and make sure through all this your cranking voltage isn't below ~9 volts.
thanks for clarification on it’s function.
this is par for the course when it comes to me and my projects
checked coils both ~10.3ohms
Rechecked plugs and found cyl 1-3 are wet/ show signs of combustion. And cyl 4 looks brand new. Checked for spark and have spark on all 4.
apparently no fuel to cylinder 4. I wonder if it doesn’t have a signal voltage but service manual mentions no means to checked for a signal.
Use the test mode for coils and injectors. If each one clicks, it's electronically ok. You can do the same with coils, but it sounds like you've tried that already. The ECU doesn't provide voltage, it's constant 12v from the main relay. ECU provides a pulsed ground signal.
No one has problems with EV14s. They're literally the current standard in injector technology. Unless you mean people are having issues with just the vendor they're from?
Use the test mode for coils and injectors. If each one clicks, it's electronically ok. You can do the same with coils, but it sounds like you've tried that already. The ECU doesn't provide voltage, it's constant 12v from the main relay. ECU provides a pulsed ground signal.
No one has problems with EV14s. They're literally the current standard in injector technology. Unless you mean people are having issues with just the vendor they're from?
coils are working
I assume I can’t check the injectors individually.? I tried inj c/d tests and nothing happened. However, it did not ‘click’ as obviously as others did. That’s why I ask if it can be done individually.
If not, I say it is not working electrically.
I’ll swap over another one injector and see if it follows.
ok that’s good to know. I was looking for other information and I skimmed across someone saying they weren’t working well for him. These one came with the kraken kit. I feel they’re good
much appreciated with the help!!
Last edited by GBWhIteMIATA; Sep 2, 2025 at 08:14 PM.
1st test with injectors plugged into their respective plugs (ie 1-1 2-2 3-3 etc..):
inj 1 test:
inj 1/cyl 1- clicks (only inj 1)
inj 2 test
inj 3/cyl 3- clicks (only inj 3)
inj 3/C test
nothing
inj 4/D test
nothing
**Shift inj connectors 1 connector over (1 is at 2, 2 at 3 etc...) plugged inj 1 plug into inj 2 and plugged inj 3 plug into inj 4. Did not plug in inj plugs 2&4
Inj 1 test
inj 2/cyl 2- clicks
inj 2 test
inj 4/cyl 4- clicks
Wiring to injectors 2/4 appears to be the issue. I've checked over connections in the engine bay and have confirmed 12v constant at the red/wht wires. feel this isn't so good
Your car (94) should have sequential injection from the factory. Verify by A) your ECU is behind the passenger seat, B) you have a green wire at 2z, and green/black wire at 2y. The larger plug is connector 2, there's a side with 4 large pins, and a side with 6 large pins. Look on the 6 side, the outer 4 wires are your injector signals. Next step would be to check continuity, yellow to 1, yellow/black to 2, green to 3, green/black to 4. It almost sounds like you're set up for sequential but not wired for it, but that would mean you're a 90-93 1.6 originally. With the MSpnp2, there's a jumper to run wasted injection for 1.6s, which comes from DIYautotune jumped. You can remove the jumper, add pins/wires to 2z/2y and run sequential, but like I said you should be wired for it already.
I assume I can’t check the injectors individually.? I tried inj c/d tests and nothing happened. However, it did not ‘click’ as obviously as others did. That’s why I ask if it can be done individually.
If not, I say it is not working electrically.
I’ll swap over another one injector and see if it follows.
ok that’s good to know. I was looking for other information and I skimmed across someone saying they weren’t working well for him. These one came with the kraken kit. I feel they’re good
much appreciated with the help!!
Originally Posted by curly
Your car (94) should have sequential injection from the factory. Verify by A) your ECU is behind the passenger seat, B) you have a green wire at 2z, and green/black wire at 2y. The larger plug is connector 2, there's a side with 4 large pins, and a side with 6 large pins. Look on the 6 side, the outer 4 wires are your injector signals. Next step would be to check continuity, yellow to 1, yellow/black to 2, green to 3, green/black to 4. It almost sounds like you're set up for sequential but not wired for it, but that would mean you're a 90-93 1.6 originally. With the MSpnp2, there's a jumper to run wasted injection for 1.6s, which comes from DIYautotune jumped. You can remove the jumper, add pins/wires to 2z/2y and run sequential, but like I said you should be wired for it already.
Hey Curly Thank you for helping me through this. I'm not sure where or how the mix up happened. I'm sure it's in my understanding of Tunerstudio.
Your above statements are true..
A. My ecu is behind the passengers seat
B. I verified the continuity on the above mentioned wires with their appropriate injector and I DO have wiring the for sequential injection.
Thats where I recall the prior mention of using standard drivers or "additional drivers" came to mind. When I went back to standard drivers that is when the problem all started. Since I do in fact have the wiring for the "additional drivers" I switched the injector driver selection and the car starts and runs. SMH
WHEW!!!
my idle is more wonky than I recall before. I observed the idle PWM and idle target seemed off or frozen?!? hmm
I did not catch the startup but I did take a log of it idling for a bit.
and here is the tune as well, just in case.
Last edited by GBWhIteMIATA; Sep 2, 2025 at 11:12 PM.
You might download a basemap and just enter your injector data, see if it runs better. I feel like there's a simple setting we're missing, because you're not running anything exotic and it's clearly set up differently than anything I've experienced.
Yeah your sequential settings are all wrong. Do me a favor and connect to the ECU, you should be able to read your firmware version along the header on the top. I have a feeling you're on a very old firmware.
Right window is yours, left is what I'm used to seeing.
Tuning help. Review of tune. What are your thoughts? Need help
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