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I guess it's time to stop lurking and start documenting my journey.
I got my na8 because back in 2022 my 340i decided it needed a top mount big turbo, and I needed something cheap and simple to get me to work/school while the BMW was "almost done."
I started spectating (and then racing) at Sonoma Drift and Wednesday Night Drags from 2018-2022, and it felt like the Miata bug kept biting me every time I showed up. Seeing everything from @sonofthehill racing to some random turbo drift Miata out there made me want to own one. I've also watched @1993z32 's TheCarPassionChannel since the inception of Broke & Boosted. I mostly watched it for entertainment, but with that "one day I'll build my own turbo Miata" thought in the back of my head... and well, it's present day now.
This was supposed to be a simple turbo Miata. I have provided that statement for the record before it's used against me later.
The hunt for the Miata was brutal. I watched decent examples sell in 2-3 days, and I kept losing them because I couldn't get there after work or on my day off. Eventually I got impatient and grabbed the first one I could actually get to... from a high school kid who was "upgrading" to an Infiniti G35. I could already hear the G35's straight pip echoing.
It showed up wearing a full set of decisions I would not have made:
TE37 reps? with massive poke, baconed front fenders & groove tire rub wear
Test pipe, hot air intake
Tein coilovers, Yonaka axle back
Clear taillights with holes drilled (DIY moisture solution, I assume)
Sleepy eye projector headlights that somehow had no high beams
Subwoofer wiring
Shifter, with the precision of a wet noodle
Knockoff quick release/steering wheel made of warm cheese (I bent it by hand)
And 3/4 of a key broken off in the ignition... because of course
Since then I’ve been undoing the bad decisions and prepping for boost, As it stands (much less clapped):
Konig Heliums on all seasons
RoadsterSport shifter
Found a Cat and put it back on
OEM red taillights
Key/locks from a part out
Now has an NB steering wheel
Maintenance done so far:
Lifters
Radiator hoses
Heater core
Timing belt/water pump
Front main seal
Valve cover gasket (still leaking smh)
Mazda 323 GTX turbo PCV
California Problems: I need to smog the car before the end of March, so I'm not installing anything major until that’s done. Once it passes, the plan is to start knocking out cooling/drivetrain stuff and then move into the turbo setup.
A day or two after I got the car. I’m still looking for the original ad from FB marketplace. Sketchy subwoofer wiring. Why are there holes in the steering wheel 🤦🏻♂️ Pending install part 1
[img alt="Pending install part 2
I’m sure I forgot to include a few things. "]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_3709_980160f76dd51885f7850a97f9ca67d044faa14f. jpeg[/img] Pending install part 2 I’m sure I forgot to include a few things.
Damn, looks like you have a nice collection of parts! Serious business!
You got this, miata's were meant to be turbo'd. It's easy as pie now days. Holler here if you have any questions!
I bought the kraken hot side parts used so unfortunately I don’t have an axle back that is 3”. There’s a local guy selling his 2.5” axle back for cheap. Do you think I could get away with a reducer and tossing on that 2.5” axle back? My concern is boost creep with these small internal wastegate turbos.
My work schedule is finally cooperating and my SO is out of town for the weekend, so I've got two full days to make substantial progress on the NA8. I realized that a few days ago, got it smogged yesterday and it passed. It's officially full steam ahead for the post smog parts install.
Plan is an early start on Saturday. I will start by pulling the trans to do the ZM1-XTSS clutch and 1.6 Fidanza flywheel. While the is trans out, I will knock out the coolant reroute since access is way easier. During that, I will replace my old plastic radiator with an aluminum radiator with slim fans. Once that is all done and buttoned up, I will begin to install the hot side parts.
For the initial start up/idle (mainly to bleed coolant and check for leaks), do yall recommend I have MS2 fully installed/configured first and doing a first start up on a safe base map, or this there a better way to handle the first idle without the stock ECU having an aneurism? I could do my injectors & fuel pump after I bleed the cooling system, so it is easier for the stock ECU along with temporarily route the stock MAF to the turbo inlet.
It sounds like you've done your research, good call doing the coolant reroute while the trans is out, it truly is easier. Some random advice:
Make sure to use RTV on the flywheel bolts or you will have an oil leak that looks like a rear main leak. The bolts go through into the oil galley on the crank.
Def do the rear main wheel you are in there. OEM only if possible.
When drilling the oil pan you can pressurize the crankcase with an air compressor through a modified oil fil cap, or just run a shop vac in reverse. This does wonders for blowing the shavings out of the hole as you drill it. Copious grease on the big helps too, and a good flush after.
I'd do the MS, injectors, AFM delete all at the same time. Be sure to rescale the ECU for the injectors and set your base timing. I personally think it's easier doing it all at once considering your time frame.
It sounds like you've done your research, good call doing the coolant reroute while the trans is out, it truly is easier. Some random advice:
Make sure to use RTV on the flywheel bolts or you will have an oil leak that looks like a rear main leak. The bolts go through into the oil galley on the crank.
Def do the rear main wheel you are in there. OEM only if possible.
When drilling the oil pan you can pressurize the crankcase with an air compressor through a modified oil fil cap, or just run a shop vac in reverse. This does wonders for blowing the shavings out of the hole as you drill it. Copious grease on the big helps too, and a good flush after.
I'd do the MS, injectors, AFM delete all at the same time. Be sure to rescale the ECU for the injectors and set your base timing. I personally think it's easier doing it all at once considering your time frame.
I appreciate the advice! I had no idea I needed to do that for the flywheel, noted. I have a new OEM rear main seal on stand by.
I'll stop by the junkyard tomorrow to get an oil cap that I can hack up to pressurize the crank case.
I'll go with installing the MS2 and fuel system parts then. The only issue I see now is that I just filled up on a tank of 87 two days ago so I have a full tank...
Last edited by Paisa; Mar 13, 2026 at 01:05 AM.
Reason: Grammar
They do make a "Seal and Lock" product that's basically a thread sealant and blue loctite mixed together. Not sure if that's more appropriate than RTV but might be worth picking up.
Also, on the topic of pressurizing the engine when drilling, I wonder if the dipstick tube might be easier to fix a hose to somehow? I didn't do that when I drilled mine but it seems like it would be a good idea.
Simba is probably right about the dipstick tube. BE CAREFUL though, you want like 3-5psi in there, if you blast too much pressure in there you are gonna blow out some seals. Just wanna make that clear, looking for low positive pressure in there, a shop vac in reverse works as well (just make sure it's blowing clean air).
Also a good point on thread sealant, but RTV def works.
I just noticed your comment about boost creep. 2.5 exhaust is fine, and in no way will you creep with a 2554 turbo, imo
Good luck this weekend dude! Sounds like your plate's gonna be pretty full but you've done your research and seem like this isn't your first rodeo.
Definitely second the guys regarding getting the car up and running on the MS/injectors before anything else. If you've got a full tank of 87, just retard the base map timing a couple degrees till you run through it and can fill with 91. What base map are you running? I remember my Trubokitty MS3 basemap on my 1995 being pretty aggressive in regards to timing, and definitely too much advance in boost for anything less than 91.
They do make a "Seal and Lock" product that's basically a thread sealant and blue loctite mixed together. Not sure if that's more appropriate than RTV but might be worth picking up.
Also, on the topic of pressurizing the engine when drilling, I wonder if the dipstick tube might be easier to fix a hose to somehow? I didn't do that when I drilled mine but it seems like it would be a good idea.
Good to know, driving down to the store will run my gas tank down a bit. 03.26.26 Update: I forgot to upload this picture. Poor bird didn?t fly out of the way when I was cruising. Picture was taken on 03.13.26 on my way to Lake Berryessa when I drove ~220miles to run down my tank lol
Simba is probably right about the dipstick tube. BE CAREFUL though, you want like 3-5psi in there, if you blast too much pressure in there you are gonna blow out some seals. Just wanna make that clear, looking for low positive pressure in there, a shop vac in reverse works as well (just make sure it's blowing clean air).
Also a good point on thread sealant, but RTV def works.
I just noticed your comment about boost creep. 2.5 exhaust is fine, and in no way will you creep with a 2554 turbo, imo
Copy that. I didn't get to the seller of the 2.5" exhaust so its going to run a 3" open dump for a bit.
Good luck this weekend dude! Sounds like your plate's gonna be pretty full but you've done your research and seem like this isn't your first rodeo.
Definitely second the guys regarding getting the car up and running on the MS/injectors before anything else. If you've got a full tank of 87, just retard the base map timing a couple degrees till you run through it and can fill with 91. What base map are you running? I remember my Trubokitty MS3 basemap on my 1995 being pretty aggressive in regards to timing, and definitely too much advance in boost for anything less than 91.
I made a quick run to the local junkyard and scored the rear Sport brakes, so now I have the full set. I'll rebuild them down the road.
I also took the long route which was through some mountains to help me burn through the 87 I have in my tank. It currently have about half a tank and I'll pick up some stuff at store in the neighboring city to burn the rest. I still haven't check what base map is on the USB that came with my MS2 PNP, I'll report back later once I see what's on there.
Simba is probably right about the dipstick tube. BE CAREFUL though, you want like 3-5psi in there, if you blast too much pressure in there you are gonna blow out some seals. Just wanna make that clear, looking for low positive pressure in there, a shop vac in reverse works as well (just make sure it's blowing clean air).
Also a good point on thread sealant, but RTV def works.
I just noticed your comment about boost creep. 2.5 exhaust is fine, and in no way will you creep with a 2554 turbo, imo
I've been reading through your build and it solved my charge pipe / radiator hose clearance, thank you. I mocked up the manifold/turbo on the motor a few days ago and it looks like I'm going to need to reclock the turbo again. I don't look forward to drilling more holes to make the wastegate bracket work... Your thread has been a goldmine for working through the same fitment issues I'm running into.
Soooooo, here's what I've achieved:
Trans removed, resealed
Coolant reroute done twice (I forgot to install the thermostat the first time smh...)
Cut and extended the wires for the ecu coolant temp sensor
Installed the aluminum radiator
Mounted the turbo
Tore 1 out of 2 bullet connectors despite disconnecting them
Tore the terminal for the dash coolant temp sensor
Doused myself with coolant while under the car
Pending: (Line items with an asterisk are new things that I've discovered I need to do while working on the car)
Switch out the rear main seal
Install the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and trans
Fuel system
Install manifold & turbo
Install Wide Band/Boost Gauge
Install MS2PNP
Once the car is driving, go to an exhaust shop to fab up an axle back
*Reclock the turbo, and drill new holes for the wastegate mounting bracket
*Install new dash coolant temp sensor (Ordered)
*Fix the torn bullet connector
*Order correct spark plugs for boost
*Delete the aluminum fan shroud and create mounting plates for the fans (General consensus is to delete the aluminum fan shroud for better air flow)
*Recheck all of the seals/valve cover gasket as the car was puking oil on the sides of the motor and on to the trans. Hence why both are caked with oily grime.
*Port Valve Cover for Oil Catch Can setup
*Cut the Timing gear cover off my spare valve cover & Paint
*Redo my radiator hose/chargepipe to throttle body for clearance
*Potentially redo the routing for the turbo water lines and from where
*Install new slave & clutch master cylinders
*Debating about deep cleaning trans and engine for the oily grime
I'm sure I'm missing a few things but that's so far it. I'll post up pictures of the car in it's current state once I clean up a bit lol
Last edited by Paisa; Mar 17, 2026 at 06:51 PM.
Reason: Added more things under "Pending:"
It's Just a Simple Turbo Miata (Hopefully?)
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