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Old May 19, 2008 | 11:11 AM
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Default Reflective Wraps & Barriers

I'm looking to pick up various radiant type thermal barriers. It would be nice to find an "overlay" type tube that slips over hoses. I could only find this. which does fit what I'm looking for, but I assume there's also a competing product. I also need some that can be wrapped and clamped down. Lastly, I need something in sheet form with a sticky back that I can cut to size and apply to the bottom side of my FRP hood, over the turbo area.

Searching for this stuff is harder than I anticipated. Leads?
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
Old May 19, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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I use exactly that sleeve on my turbo oil lines, heater hoses, and so on. Seems like good stuff, and is not averse to being hose-clamped or safety-wired. They also have another one which is beefier but non-reflective: http://www.thermotec.com/product_detail.php?prd_id=31

In general: http://www.thermotec.com/full.php

Specifically, stick-backed thermo-stuff: http://www.thermotec.com/product_detail.php?prd_id=13 This is what I have on the underside of my hood. After a year or so it's lost some of its stickiness and droops a bit. Might have been better to use this http://www.thermotec.com/product_detail.php?prd_id=9 and this http://www.thermotec.com/product_detail.php?prd_id=26

The stuff I lined the inside of my turbo heatshield with: http://www.thermotec.com/product_detail.php?prd_id=16

I believe Summit also sells a generic of most of this stuff, but I've used thermo-tec for a long time and been pretty happy with their product.
Old May 19, 2008 | 11:24 AM
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https://www.wirecare.com/wc_product_company.asp

All different stuff, not sure if any of it will help you.
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Old May 19, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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http://www.motorarmor.com/productinfo.htm
Old May 19, 2008 | 12:49 PM
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I use the thermotec tubes and they also now have a velcro option that's pretty cool. Otherwise you can just buy their tape and wrap it and wire it at the ends (the adhesive WILL fail if it's near the manifold!).

The water lines are thermo-tec tubing and the stuff by the WG is the tape.

Old May 19, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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The last thing you mentioned sounds like this.

Aluminized Heat Barrier
The self adhesive composite material can easily be applied to any surface. It should be used to reflect heat away from certain parts. The material is rated to reflect up to 2000 degrees of radiant heat and 300 degrees of exhaust heat. It works great to reduce foot well temperatures. One sheet is 12" x 24".

$ 25.99 p/n 13575

http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages...ata_parts.html
Old May 19, 2008 | 11:01 PM
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Try this stuff.

Worked for me.

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/red-hot_sleeve.php
Old May 21, 2008 | 01:35 PM
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i bought some thermotec tube sleeves and tape for myself since the turbo is going in this week. I also have a FM Greddy heat shield.
from what i seen in the thread below, most of you guys isolate the oil reservoir and master brake and those 2 tubes just behind the turbo coming off the firewall.
is there anything else below the turbo to be isolated not shown in the pics as they are mostly taken above the engine bay?

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...ght=heatshield
Old May 21, 2008 | 01:58 PM
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m2cupcar posted this in the parts section but it might get lost there:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21323

Frank
Old May 21, 2008 | 02:23 PM
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has anyone ever made hardlines for water to and from the heater core? I can already see the inevitable failure.
Old May 21, 2008 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by fmowry
m2cupcar posted this in the parts section but it might get lost there:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21323

Frank
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
Old May 21, 2008 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
has anyone ever made hardlines for water to and from the heater core? I can already see the inevitable failure.
Don't be a retard. You'd still need rubber joints to allow for the engine to move.
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
Old May 21, 2008 | 02:40 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Ben
Don't be a retard. You'd still need rubber joints to allow for the engine to move.
In my corrado I had to do hose clamps with rubber hose at the joints and hard lines in between because the ***** always melted and left me stranded numerous times. Once in bumfuck nowhere texas.
Old May 21, 2008 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
has anyone ever made hardlines for water to and from the heater core? I can already see the inevitable failure.
1) remove dash
2) remove heater core
3) remove AC
4) make hard lines that run inside the car and exit through AC holes
5) use rubber heater hose around front of engine to water in/out

Are people really having that much problems with burning up heater hoses? I used shielding on both of mine and they were fine. I do replace hoses if I remove the engine. A lot easier than trying to get them off the core nipples.

Frank
Old May 21, 2008 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by fmowry
1) remove dash
2) remove heater core
3) remove AC
4) make hard lines that run inside the car and exit through AC holes
5) use rubber heater hose around front of engine to water in/out

Are people really having that much problems with burning up heater hoses? I used shielding on both of mine and they were fine. I do replace hoses if I remove the engine. A lot easier than trying to get them off the core nipples.

Frank
Texas is way too ******* hot to bounce the AC.
Old May 21, 2008 | 04:42 PM
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I just put aluminum tape on mine. home depot. not a problem since. lines are still soft.
Old May 22, 2008 | 09:48 AM
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Ghetto wrap made from header wrap and reflectix tape FTW
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