This will be my last thread regarding this clutch install, promise With the xtd 6 puck and mazda tob I put in comp. mm's. For the first 80 miles, I just drove it around town. This weekend I put 400 miles on it on a road trip. I thought the chatter would go down a little but not really. I've been babying it, especially the 2-3 shifts like everyone talks about. It just seems like now I fear stop and go traffic and having to back up. If you don't get the revs/clutch release within a nanosecond of perfection, the whole car bucks and you hear loud clanging in the tranny. Reverse is even worse. Is this just something I'm going to have to live with or should it smooth out a bit?

 

Truthfully. This is a "learn to drive" moment. My car does this is I drive it like a pansy. If I drive it without thinking about it everything is smooth and chatter free. Is this a sprung disc? I have the ACT HD 6 pk disc but they shouldn't be all that different.

 

Mine never got better, but I did

Reverse still takes a lot of concentration. It ain't your mother's clutch

 

That's what I'm thinking. I notice if I try and slip it like I did with the stock disk( around 1000ish rpms) then I get bucking. If I bring the rpms up higher...to say around 1800 then it catches better. Is there any issues with leaving at a higher rpms?

 

I frequently launch at more like 2500 rpms.
Grow a set, give it gas and let'r rip. If anything it's nice having your seat belt lock every time you take off when you have to make that 2nd gear corner from the 4 lane light onto a 55 mph road

 

Okay, I guess I always thought it would wear the clutch more leaving at a higher rpm...if it's fine though then that's what I'll do, thanks.

 

The clutch is meant to wear. By the time you wear that clutch out though you'll either want a different clutch, different car, or more power than that clutch can handle anyway.
Driving that way I don't see why 5 or more years of abuse wouldn't be reasonable on the street.
Track driving might be a different story. I have no experience to back up these figures though.

 

A 6 puck will wear more than lessor disks by it's very nature if you slip it a lot. After about 45K, I had worn a 1/16" groove in the pp and flywheel. I slipped it a lot in bumper to bumper traffic and around town driving.

 

its a pucked clutch, stop being a woman and deal with it.

 

best advice here, It took me a few days and I was fine. Sure I get some chatter sometimes, but who cares? You could just launch it every time, then youll just get tire spinning instead of clutch chatter.

 

did you check your motor mounts? if they are old the engine will rock more and cause more chatter. good luck. i got one on my prelude and hate it wish i never did it. i bet the miata is even worse.

 

off-topic:

+1

One of the best things I ever bought for the Miata.

Edit - I have an ACT HD (1.6 version) and no slip issues. I don't slip now, and I can still go to the 1.8-size flywheel and the "Xtreme" ACT if I do. So I don't see much reason to suffer through a pucked clutch if you don't have to.

 

A friend of mine jumped into my car for an autocross and was clanging and bucking around the pits. I told him to give it at least 2000rpm before letting the clutch out and he was butter smooth in an instant. These clutches do not like to engage under 1k. It definitely takes some getting used to; I stalled it once a week for about 6 weeks, then once a month after that. It still gets the better of me every so often if I'm not driving like I normally do.

In reverse, I usually rev it up between 3-4k to get rid of the clicking, popping, and bucking. Makes me look like an *******, but so does stalling the car 4 times backing out of a spot.

I have like 25k on my clutch and it'll still chirp the 3-4.

 

Okay...so all I need is more rpm. Thanks.

 

You should look into getting a heavier flywheel made. It too will help increase shock loads on the drivetrain and shorten the life of the shitty drivetrain mazda put behind the BP engine.

Puck clutches = fail.

 

I subscribe to the same logic.

I make like 12-17 shifts per lap, I'll take the clutch I know will not overheat.

 

Put a real clutch in it and it will work fine. If you overheat it, you're not shifting right. You'll be bitching when you blow a tranny.

 

"Real clutch"? Seriously?

 

You're dumb.

 

ill seconded that