I figured that I might as well replace the old factory ones on the V8 car while everything is apart.

Good-win sells these for $99. http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...t/61-0480.html

Searching, moss has the exact same photo in their ad for $169 at Saferacer.

http://www.saferacer.com/moss-motors...?productid=562

I don't know if they are the same or if someone stole someone else's photo. Any thoughts or others to consider as opposed to the $99 ones from Brian?

Also, I have an M-tuned Corrado front big brake kit to go in. It came with a set of XP10 front and rear pads.

I know that most run XP10 front, XP8 rear on stock rotors, but I figured with the larger rotors up front yielding better leverage, maybe the ZP10/10 is OK? They came this way with the big brake kit used.

Finally, will I need a prop valve?

Thoughts?

I'm planning on another set of rotors/street pads for DD duties.

 

Track guys? Anyone?

 

you've been shunned by the community for going v8. for shame. for shame.

 

You would not say that if you had driven one. Miata + V8 = awesome

In for the answer since I could probably use new brake lines.

EDIT: Emilio has a setup as well $114
http://949racing.com/miatabrakelines.aspx

 

Hustler needs to chime in...

 

Stein, what is your brake setup going to be? If you decide to go with the TSE kit the front lines on both kits linked above will be useless.

That said, i have gone from stock (1.6) to 1.8s, then stainless lines and now the TSE kit up front stock 1.8 rears with stainless lines all around. I am finally content with my braking setup. DTC-60s up front ducted (thanks again Machismo) and DTC-30s out back. This is all joined together with a willwood prop valve.

 

Sorry, I could have been more clear. It's the M-Tuned kit which is basically a set of brackets to move the front stock calipers out so they will work with the 11" VW Corrado rotors. http://www.etdracing.com/m-tuned/pro...products_id=80

Rears are stock Miata. This is on an NB.

 

Glad I clicked that link. Have to remember to get the fluid when I order whatever I order. I have dropped hundreds on shipping costs the past few months building this thing. I keep remembering parts that I need. Every time I turn around it's another $10 shipping. I've shipped half a car in the last couple of months.

/rant

 

I am here, fear not. I swapped to sport brakes and my old "1.8-length" SS lines did not fit. TDR sells brake lines for a reasonable price that will fit the sport brakes.

Yes, you want the wilwood bias valve. However, I recommend the one with the funky handle so you can visually look at it and know its setting, rather than the mystery of "how many times did I twist the ****."

The problem with Corrado rotors is the "outboard venting." They don't take in enough air and you have to spend $180 on inboard vented rotors from Racing Brake or your **** will overheat like mine did.

You also need to use a very hard pad with the single-piston calipers or the compressibility of soft pads will cause extreme pad taper. I recommend blues if you're going to use shitty single-piston brakes. If you're not tracking this thing, disregard everything I've said.

 

TDR has that same picture as Goodwin and Saferacer LOL
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...rake_lines.htm

You can ask Emilio if his lines will work with the adapter kit. I have the same thing, Corrado rotors on the front and sport rotors on the rear. I also have the Wilwood bias valve but with the larger rear discs and the XP10/XP8 Carbotechs, I barely can dial in any bias before the car gets unstable under braking. I have it at maybe 1/2 a turn from all the way out.

You can drive those carbotechs on the street, I have. But they are freaking noisy little bitches. They squeal like a ****.

 

TDR/Gary makes his own from a hydraulics shop down the street. I know this to be fact. His are unique to any other miata kit.

 

damn...I'm at 900* from 50/50. lol

 

So maybe with the standard rear NB rotors which are bigger than NA but smaller than sport the XP10's aren't too much for the rears and I can fine tune with bias.

 

FWIW, Moss is always a ****-ton more expensive on the same exact British car parts than their chief competitor, Victoria British. I would expect that to be their situation on everything they carry, even brake lines.

 

That would be my guess, yes.

There was a big debate in some old thread around here about whether or not the larger rear brakes were even really needed with race pads. But with the LS1 I did not want to take any chances on the brakes so I did it anyway.

 

So I guess my only question is to see if the Good-Win or Emilio's lines work with the relocated big brake kit (should if ZX's stock lines work with his).

I can always up to sport rears down the road. I might as well throw the prop valve in anyway while everything is torn apart. What's another $50 at this point? It's been a steady stream of cash flowing out anyway.

Anyone that says you can realistically do a quality V8 swap for less than $10K is kidding themselves.

 

OK, last question - which fluid?

Motul RBF600, Wilwood EXP 600, ATE Super Blue or something else?

 

BRAKE FLUID DRY BOILING POINT WET BOILING POINT SUGGESTED
LIST PRICE
AP SUPER 600 590 o F 410 o F $18.00/16.9oz.
CASTROL SRF 590 o F 518 o F $69.99/33.8oz.
NEO SUPER DOT 610 610 o F 421 o F $15.00/12oz.

MOTUL RACING 600 593 o F 420 o F $15.00/16.9oz.
MOTUL DOT 5.1 509 o F 365 o F $6.50/16.9oz.
ATE SUPER BLUE 536 o F 392 o F $11.99/33.8oz
VALVOLINE SYNPOWER 503 o F 343 o F $4.97/16.9oz.
ATE SL 500 o F 329 o F $7.95/16.9oz.
CASTROL LMA 450 o F 311 o F $3.50/16.9oz.
AP 551 528 o F 288 o F $12.50/16.9oz.

 

^ So basically, any 600-ish boiling point at a reasonable price and easily available is fine, right?

 

Yep - You can even look into the Ford Racing fluid (I know right?). Fairly cheap and good for up to 600*