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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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Default blown turbo??

so i was coming home from my GF's parents house tonight and i notice my car had no power.

i get off the highway up where i live and theres a stop sign. after i go i notice this loud noise coming from the engine bay. it only happens when i give the car gas/the turbo is spooling.. my guess is that the turbo has finally **** the bed. i have no boost pressure and it is only when im stepping on the gas. if i take my foot off the gas the noise goes away and it sounds normal with a couple small pops

video can be seen here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGPBpZz36Oc

what do you think is wrong?
Old Jul 4, 2010 | 10:32 PM
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Sounds loud, and like its idling really poorly.
But I hear the sound of turbo spinning, which it doesnt do when it grinds out on the housing, itll just crunch, and die.
Im betting that you cracked your exhaust manifold.

Pics of said "custom manifold"?
Old Jul 4, 2010 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
Pics of said "custom manifold"?
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i also should change my sig to say homemade mani
Old Jul 4, 2010 | 10:43 PM
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Sounds like a wicked exhaust leak to me too. How thick is the mani tubing?
Old Jul 4, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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I agree that it sounds like a massive exhaust leak. But take off your intake tubing to the turbo and see how freely/smoothly the turbine feels when you turn it with your hand. When my turbo died it sounded horrible all the time (grinding).
Old Jul 4, 2010 | 10:58 PM
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I'll give you $20 monopoly if that's not an exhaust leak. Sounds a little louder than mine when the bolts stretch a bit.
Old Jul 4, 2010 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lordrigamus
Sounds like a wicked exhaust leak to me too. How thick is the mani tubing?
Thats what Im thinking.
These engines are not nice to manifolds, they seem top have some wicked vibrational issues.

Making manifolds out of SCH 40 stainless is pretty common on this site, yet almost unheard of on other cars. Most custom manifolds I see on other cars are made of 18 gauge, which is like 1/3 the thickness of SCH 40, and they never seem to have manifold cracking issues.
Old Jul 5, 2010 | 11:50 AM
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you guys were right and wrong.. it is an exhaust leak

this is somewhat what it looked like last night. which is why it didnt really catch my eye(plus it was dark out)
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and here it is after i poked around for a minute this morning
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i just looked under my car in hopes that theres a place i can unbolt the downpipe but who ever in their right mind had the car before me and put the exhaust on was numb in the head... its a sold pipe(looks to be 2.5") all the way back. no flex pipe, no pieces, looks like they added a tiny cat and have an inline muffler or resonator
Old Jul 5, 2010 | 01:17 PM
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So the downpipe cracked, eh?
That explains the loudness, but doesnt explain not being able to build any boost. In fact, I would imagine with a big leak like that right after the turbo, that it would want to spike reeeally hard
Old Jul 5, 2010 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
So the downpipe cracked, eh?
That explains the loudness, but doesnt explain not being able to build any boost. In fact, I would imagine with a big leak like that right after the turbo, that it would want to spike reeeally hard
thats why i thought it might have been a blown turbo.. i had no boost while on the highway even at 3200 rpms or even when i got off the highway trying to accelerate thru the gears
Old Jul 5, 2010 | 02:49 PM
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Sounds like two separate issues, then. Exhaust leaks will not magically cause the boost to go away.
Old Jul 5, 2010 | 05:49 PM
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Is that gunfire after you turn the engine off, or just backfiring?
Old Jul 5, 2010 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dgmorr
Is that gunfire after you turn the engine off, or just backfiring?
maybe fireworks? the video was taken at 10pm on the fourth lol
Old Jul 7, 2010 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Savington
Sounds like two separate issues, then. Exhaust leaks will not magically cause the boost to go away.
I did not have a good seal on my turbo outlet and the car would not make boost on the dyno.
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 09:50 PM
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ok so ive tried jb weld.. it at first seemed to be good. i let it cure for 24 hours and it was 100=90* outside the days it covered.

i was able to start the car and it idled fine for about 30 seconds. then it broke off again....

so second attempt was with quicksteel... after curing for about 3 hours all looked good and ready to go.. car started up right away and idled fine for about 5 minutes. i tried giving it a bit of gas and that worked. so i tried bringing it up to about 3k rpms. and it fell off again...

anyone know of anything i can use to temp hold it on? i only need to hold it so i can drive the car to get it fixed. i dont have a truck nor a trailor to use to bring it anywhere.

or is there a safe type of metal i can wedge between the DP and firewall ledge behind it that wont melt or ruin anything?
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 09:58 PM
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JBweld... on your downpipe. ROFL ROFL.
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Splitime
JBweld... on your downpipe. ROFL ROFL.
Ya ya ya I know but it only needs to hold for a 15 minute drive to the nearest person who can weld it for me. And that 15 minutes is with a little bit of traffic and me doing the speed limit. Other then that I could do it in less then 10
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 10:23 PM
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It should work with the downpipe hanging off, there's nothing you can do without a welder. Didn't you get it the rest of your way home like this? Or will it not run at all.
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
It should work with the downpipe hanging off, there's nothing you can do without a welder. Didn't you get it the rest of your way home like this? Or will it not run at all.
It must have come completely loose within a 1/2 mile of my house. It does run but it runs like crap and there is no power.
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 11:02 PM
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Are you racing anyone to the welder moron? Limp it over there or fail a couple more thousand times trying jb weld, your choice.



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