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Part numbers for a 475whp 2.0L stroker

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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 04:02 PM
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Default Part numbers for a 475whp 2.0L stroker

I've figured out part numbers for the 2.0 motor that MikeF85 used to make 474whp.

Pistons:
JE Pistons
PN: 185918
http://www.jepistons.com/Products/185918.aspx
Intended for a Honda B20B4 with a B16A3 head.
Bore: 3.346" ~85mm
Stroke: 3.504
Rod Length: 5.394"
Comp Height: 1.181
Weight: 297
Inverted dome volume 11.9
Name:  piston.jpg
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Rods:
Manufactured by Pauter.
The rods don't have part numbers on them, but they do have a job number of 0702s. By using the specs listed for the piston, and the Pauter website, it would point us to HON-210-480-1370F found here.
Pin dia .827”
B E bore 1.890”
Length 5.394”
B E width .935”
Weight 560g

I've sent an email to them asking to confirm this detail. Do yall know if the listed rods will work? I'm not 100% sure on these.

The ones used here aren't cheap, but that doesn't mean there aren't other vendors making decent quality pistons and rods for this application IE: supertech, belfab.
Couple this with the correct offset crank grind and you have yourself a very potent 2 liter.
Old Aug 12, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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wow i hope this info is true, it maybe but the build price, does the crank need to be machine to accept different rod bearings? i would imagine they would be different...
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 12:05 AM
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You'd need an offset grind on the crank to achieve the extra stroke. Coolest part is that you can still use an OEM head gasket. I don't know the details on that, but a crank shop would. I know the piston is correct. I had to replace one in this motor. Still waiting on confirmation for the rods.
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 03:11 AM
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This is the first i've heard of grinding the stock crank to get two liters. Any technical information on that, such as... what would i tell a machine shop to get that? Any other information about it? Is it still as strong?
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 08:31 AM
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Explanation on this page with nice graphics
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 10:23 AM
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How does the stock 1.8L crank do with an offset grind of this size on it? Has anyone had issues with it?
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 10:45 AM
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Very interesting
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 11:13 AM
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I meant to check the specs on the rods when they had that motor apart so we could have this info public. Thanks for not being as lazy as I was. More than likely those will be some honda rods so you can get some cheaper Eagle rods instead of pauters.

Hopefully we can figure out exactly where to grind the offest of the crank to get it perfect. I don't know if it is all the way out or not. Let me know what you find.
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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I've looked into this awhile back and the biggest holdup is finding a good place to do the offset grind as not that many places are well versed at doing it with a miata crank. Sure, I found a few places willing to give it a go, but didn't really want to be a test dummy. At one of the better shops in CA that does race cranks, it was a 12-18 month wait. YMMV.
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 01:55 PM
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Hell, I'll try it all out. As long as I get some part numbers and exactly what the crank needs. My machine shop says they know where they can get it done by someone competant.
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 02:11 PM
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I think John Day built that motor.
http://www.daycustomengine.com/DCE/
Tell him Trey sent you.

If It was Automotive machine in Arlington, stay away. If it was Brian Stoid, run away (history of selling "built motors" with stock internals or milling the deck enough to hit the head.
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 02:13 PM
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Ric Stevens built it. If I ever take it apart again I'll definitely get more details on the crank.
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Bryce
Ric Stevens built it. If I ever take it apart again I'll definitely get more details on the crank.
I know that guy, cool dude with a good record of making huge power.
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 03:51 PM
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From Pauter:
Mr Toler,
The "0702S" isn't anything we would typically mark on the rod. Could you send us a picture of the rod and marking?
Thanks,
Brian
I guess we won't know until I pull the motor apart again.
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
I know that guy, cool dude with a good record of making huge power.
Ask him about the crank and rods if and when you see him again.
Old Aug 14, 2010 | 09:10 AM
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so is there a link or a contact to the guy building the stroker motor? maybe if we can find a shop thats compatint enough we can do a group buy and have a bunch of cranks done at once, if we had info i bet Travis may have some connections, doesnt anyone work from FM on here? they need to give up the ghost, no one can afford 4k for a stroker unless you got deep pockets then you might as well do a ls1 swap ect
Old Aug 14, 2010 | 09:38 AM
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They spent a fair amount of r&d to just give that up. Plus those stroker kits still sell pretty well from what I understand.
Old Aug 14, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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His R&D could really pay off if more people start buying them here. Contacting the person who has already done it for more sounds win win to me.
Old Aug 15, 2010 | 01:19 AM
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OK Compared the Honda rods you listed to the stock miata rods. Pretty interesting:

Honda
HON-210-480-1370F
Pin dia .827”
B E bore 1.890”
Length 5.394”
B E width .935”
Weight 560g

Mazda
MAZ-200-480-1328F
Pin dia .787”
B E bore 1.890””
Length 5.228”
B E width .860”

The crank bore is exactly the same on the mazda vs the honda rods. The length is just a hair longer on the honda units but maybe that is where they are getting the extra displacement from with a shorter piston but a longer rod.

The only problem I see is the width of the big end at .935 instead of .860, but the rods could just be machined slimmer right?

I do remeber that machine shop saying that the rod bearings he got for that engine were from a honda, so maybe there is space to have the whole rod big end in there.
Old Aug 15, 2010 | 11:13 AM
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Didn't Randy "dynra rockets" Stocker do just that--machine the width of the big end of a honda rod down to the mazda width?
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