Got a very leaky rear main, might as ewell do the clutch while I'm at it this weekends project. Any real tips, do's or don'ts that I should be aware of. I've done old musclecar clutches before years ago, but it has been a while.
Also, what is the secret to getting the console to pop out to get the shift boot off. The rear main is a pressin type seal, what would be the way of removing it without damaging the crank surface. Thansk again for the help.

 

The console is held in by 4 or 5 screws I believe 2 on the sides by the shifter and 2 or 3 under the lid, just undo those and it should lift right up. As for the seal I used this just because I alreday had one I'm sure there is another way

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=SPM6169885002

Oh yeah and if the motor is in the car lots and lots of extensions

 

Tools that you need to make the job easy.
3 foot extension
wobble joints
HF transmission jack
seal puller

Before you remove the transmission put a jack on the front of the oil pan. This way when you remove the transmission the engine does not rock forward. It makes putting the transmission back in a lit easier. Soak all the header bolts and transmission bolts in pb blaster starting a few days in advance. Other then that it is pretty easy.

 

Don't forget to resurface the flywheel.
For the seal, remove the transmission. If you have a hoist and the space, a few of us will recomend you remove the engine and transmission as one, then take the transmission off for the clutch and rear main seal. If you have a lift and/or tranny jack, just remove the transmission. Follow the Hayne's manual, it's fairly helpful. The rear main seal is part of a bracket. Remove the bracket with 4 m8 bolts, replace the seal on your workbench, then reinstall the bracket. You can use a piece of 2x4 to press the seal in straight.
http://www.miata.net/garage/clutch/index.html
For the console, it's just a bunch of screws. Two in the front on either side, one underneath the cup holders, two in the storage compartment. Then it'll pop off, don't forget the wiring clip for the power windows, which is there for non PW too. See page 12
http://www.miata.net/garage/DashRmv_89_93.pdf
Good time to rebuild your shifter too.
http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=21545
Don't forget to resurface the flywheel.

m.net garage is your friend.

 

Fixed. I don't know how anyone even attempts a tranny swap in this car without a 3ft extension and a 1/2" universal joint.

 

It's pretty baller when you get in there with the impact and zip the trans off, from behind the tail shaft, with air.

 

I think I had three feet of wobble extensions connected end to end. And a wobble impact socket. Drop dp if in the way. I left mine in place, and it made it a. pain. Wobble extensions make it pretty easy.

 

One tip I can think of is to leave the tranny in gear. That way when you go to put the tranny back up it will be harder to rotate the input shaft and allow you to twist the tranny to get the clutch splines to line up. Also make sure you have the correct clutch pilot tool. There are a few seals in the front of the tranny you should replace as well. No sense in pulling the tranny and not replacing them. Put a LIGHT COAT of grease on the tranny input shaft, this will help the splines slide into place on the clutch disc.

Second on getting the flywheel resurfaced, call around now and get prices and timelines from machine shops. Around here most machine shops charge $50 to resurface them and it takes at least a day. Autozone has 1.6 flywheels for $59, so you might want to just get one from there, but they are special order, so order it now to make sure you have it by the weekend.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-iwtstZ6o2oa

Plus one on the universal joint in 1/2" size. Another thing to note is that the power-plant frame is a bear to remove. There is a "pin" at the rear which locks the power-plant frame to the diff. it looks like a thick washer, with flat spots so you can pry it out.

 

Wow, all good info. Another thought is what clutch should I put in? The original has held so far, no problems, and I don't plan on going any higher than the 6psi I'm at now. Will a generic replacement clutch kit be ok or should I get something a bit better, if so, what? I don't have a tranny jack, how heavy is the trans, a one man job or should i get a friend under there with me. It looks like you can get to the two top bellhousing bolt from the engine compartment, is that a possiblity instead from below. Thanks for the help.

 

I had an OEM replacement clutch for a while when I had my greddy @ about 6psi and it was having a hard time holding it. I'd go for something better (FM or ACT) so you have head room just in case

 

I'd go with FM's clutch. They spend a lot of time fine tuning the feel and apparently say it's great. You will also have their amazing customer service. It is also reasonably priced. Ebay clutch hold up for a budget, which is what I have. It's an on/off clutch though, so it's not suitable for street driving. Unless you hate yourself.

 

Am I crazy or did I read somehwere I can buy a 1.8 flywheel and stock clutch kit and it will bolt right in my 1.6. If thats so, that should give me the extra holding power I might need. Any thoughts on this. Are the pilot bearings the same. Any body heard of this. Thanks again.

 

Yes, yes, and yes.

I don't know how much power you have and it may not hold, but nonetheless, yes to all of your questions.

 

I"m only running 6psi, intercooled, can't imagine any more than 150hp. The stock 1.6 clutch has held up so far. Car has been turboed for 40k miles. Although I'm not too hard on it. So The 1.8 stuff will fit totally, no issues at all. just bolt in and go. That seems too easy. A guy around here has a 1.8 OEM clutch and PP new in box, Auto zone has the flywheel. I'm good to go. Oh, by the way, the oil leak is Unfortunately NOT the rear main. It Is the turbo oil line off the block. Just couldn't see it. Darn! Oh well. 110k out of stock clutch its almost gone, so it all works out.

 

Or leave it in and remove the rear bolt instead. The powerplant frame will swivel around the front bolt/sleeves which leaves plenty of room to get the trans out.

While you're in there, you'll want to install a stainless clutch line. If you don't, you'll understand why you should have installed one when you're trying to get the curly-q to stay clear of the transmission as you lift it back up into the car.

 

If your taking the engine and tranny out as one do you need to remove the 2 rear Power Plant bolts? Last time I remember when putting in the urethane diff mounts those 2 long bolts that engage way up at the top would not move even with a supposed 600ft/lbs air gun. How do you get penetrating oil way up all in it back there? Though I'd rather just let them be if possible.

 

If you upgrade to a 1.8 flywheel you could use an MSM stock clutch for peace of mind. Maybe put in a light weight flywheel to offset the heavier clutch assembly?

 

good thoughts. On the clutch line, who would have that? Flyin Miata?

 

Trackspeed Engineering, Savington's company:

http://trackspeedengineering.com/sto...2cc61d86d9599c

 

Guys, I have an FM1 happy meal going in to my car in the next few days.

Would someone be able to name the seals that I should have the mechanic replace while we are in there..?

I would like to order them ahead of time to reduce the down time and how long the car is with them (chargeable time).

I think rear crank seal and someone above mentioned some gearbox ones..?