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Is My Oil Return Line Too Long?

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Old May 26, 2012 | 06:20 PM
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Default Is My Oil Return Line Too Long?

Does it look too long?



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Old May 26, 2012 | 06:24 PM
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I would shorten it to have a neater swoop into the oil pan.
Old May 26, 2012 | 06:24 PM
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yes
Old May 26, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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That is to long. Cut it shorter and remake it.
Old May 26, 2012 | 08:03 PM
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Is it just me or does it look like the line dips down below the pan fitting. Could cause it to pool and back up. That and shorter would be cleaner.
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Old May 26, 2012 | 08:47 PM
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Thats what I figured, I actually purchased this line from Begi's oil feed/return kit. The line itself looks like it was from Summit Racing. Do you think this is re-terminable or would I need to buy a new line?
Old May 26, 2012 | 08:56 PM
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Just pull it off, seperate the fitting from the hose, cut line with a cutoff wheel, and clean. Then reassymble.
Old May 26, 2012 | 08:56 PM
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Those are reusable ends.

Unscrew the red part and slide it back. DON'T TAKE IT OFF, they're a bitch to slide on over stainless steel lines.

Figure out where you want to cut the line, and VERY tightly wrap electrical tap around it. Cut in the middle of the tape. The tape holds the weave together while you cut.

Shove the blue part in, slide red part up to it and tighten it up.
Old May 26, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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Cool! Thanks everyone
Old May 27, 2012 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
Those are reusable ends.

Unscrew the red part and slide it back. DON'T TAKE IT OFF, they're a bitch to slide on over stainless steel lines.

Figure out where you want to cut the line, and VERY tightly wrap electrical tap around it. Cut in the middle of the tape. The tape holds the weave together while you cut.

Shove the blue part in, slide red part up to it and tighten it up.
You typically can't just slide the red part down the line - it has a little flange to hold the hose in the right place.

I cut AN line with a chisel and a sledgehammer. I have yet to find a cleaner way that doesn't produce a ton of metal shavings inside the hose.
Old May 27, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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The standard drain location at the front of the pan is used because it's really the only place you can drill while the engine is in the car. If you've got it on an engine stand, it works much better to put the drain fitting between the motor mount and the subframe, almost directly below the turbo. Like this:



I dunno if it's worth pulling the oil pan off again to move it, but it does clean things up a lot.

--Ian
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Old May 27, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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A 45* hose end or adapter to use with that hose end would clean up your install a bunch, too.
Old May 27, 2012 | 07:03 PM
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Is that teflon tape on the water line to barb fittings?
Old May 27, 2012 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
Is that teflon tape on the water line to barb fittings?
Yes. Should it not be there?


Is this any better?

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Old May 28, 2012 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by fluffypillows
Yes. Should it not be there?


Is this any better?
[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=44644&dateline=1338166 441[/IMG
[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=44645&dateline=1338166 441[/IMG
You don't use any sealant on AN/ flare fittings. The flare itself does the sealing, not the threads.


Your oil drain looks better, but a 45* adapter between the pan and the drain line would be even better.



Like an Earl's 924110 available about halfway down the page here:

http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Aluminum-14.html


You can find them cheaper if you look around ebay, Summit or even on that website.
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