hey guys,
I got the great fortune of receiving a NB2 VVT motor that is in need of a rebuild due to some wonderful rod knock from Doppelgangers car. I plan to eventually swap the motor into my 1.6 Project Lazarus.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...nothing-75005/
Im not asking to be spoonfed, but the purpose behind the car is to have a cheap reliable track rat, thus I do not want to spend an excessive amount of money on rebuilding the motor, I will obviously replace everything that is necessary, but Im wondering if it would be worth keeping the VVT head. My car currently has as a MS PNP, and I know I would need the VVT tuner to properly run the VVT which is an additional 200 I dont want to spend. Ive done some research and it looks like the general consensus is that the VVT head does not like to rev particullarly highin abusive conditions such as HPDE and time trials.

I guess my question is would it be worth switching to a non VVT NB1 head for the sake of reliability vs keeping the VVT at additional cost and potentially a better powerband. I have no plans on going with a squaretop manifold or anything of that nature, the car will have full exhaust and an intake and other than that is stock. Currently the 1.6 that is in there makes 115 whp and Im looking to get a reliable 140 whp, anything above that would be a plus. The car gets driven hard and racks up a pretty decent amount of track miles.

So to sum it up, is there anything that you folks would suggest upgrading while the motor is apart in order to promote longevity and potentially increase performance, and if the VVT is a worthwhile asset to keep or not.

 

Yes the VVT head is worth it. And the NB1 head swap is going to cost more than a VVT tuner because people still think VVT heads are fragile and/or hard to swap.

 

If you concerned about longevity, you wouldn't ever see 8k on the tach.

None of our motors enjoy like to rev particularly high in abusive conditions, you're just lucky you haven't grenaded anything yet.

I still say rebuild the VVT and swap it in. By the time you sell or part out the 1.6, I bet you won't be too far in the hole.

 

Curly,

Do you mean in stock form? Or even with a balanced, forged rods, and springs at 8k?

 

I would absolutely keep the VVT head and make sure you throw in forged rods to be on the safe side. VVT tuner is not needed to get the car running. So if the $200 is to much up front, wait a bit and drive the car without VVT. Honestly I would recommend moving up from a MSPNP to an MS3X of some sort over buying a VVT tuner. While it it more expensive, the MS3 is so much better then the MS1.

 

Hmm, VVT or MCS...