I saw this this morning and figured I'd share. It looks like Fluidampr has released a model for the Mazda B series motors.

https://motoiq.com/new-fluidampr-per...eries-engines/

Mazda Miata-B Series Engine

 

isnt the whole idea to get rid of the 4 failure point bolts?

 

The failure mode is in the oil pump gears and crank deflection. Both can be solved other ways but it is a good idea to get a damper. A balanced rotating assembly and oil pressure relief valve are both good ways to solve the issue then add a BE oil pump and damper and youre bullet proof


Seems like a nice piece. What concerns me in my situation is the different belt that they say you need to run. So if anyone is running a larger alternator off of a RX7 we dont know it it will work. otherwise it is a nice piece.

 

oil pump gears is a whole different problem.

there a reason the old ati damper had the 4 small bolts eliminated and the bhj/supermiata also. it looks like they are trying to cater to class racing

 

Can you post up the link to the bolt problem. Not questioning you just haven't seen it and its relevant in this thread for anyone else reading.

Edit:
Couldn't find anything related to bolt failures when searching only oil pump failures. The only thing i can think of is when bolting it on any balance that the damper had pretty much goes out the window.

 

The only thing I've seen about the older ATI failures was a friend of mine, but his case was extreme. He was running 300-350whp before many of us were even thinking about Miata's. He was also running the motor up to 9000k at auto-xes and 8000k at the track. He only had the bolts fail on him once and luckily the motor just shut off (ECU lost timing and shut down). I'll have to ask him what he replaced it with or if he just go stronger bolts.

 

Tons of people have broken the 4 bolts off the front of the crank. I've seen it happen twice, even have pictures of it happening....

Picture of said crank pulley in the dirt







Here it is bouncing past the rear wheel

 

Also why would balance go out the window. Locating pin like the stock pulley, same balance all the time.

 

That must have made some interesting noises

 

I always question what bolt grade people have used to hold their pulley on. The parts store bolts are usually only Grade 8.8 (basically grade 5, medium strength). Fluidampr lists theirs as Grad 12.9 which exceeds Grade 8 strength. Then there is the question of how many times they've been stretched from over tightening.

 

I didnt see that it had a locating pin. So my thought process was there would be multiple locations based on how you bolt it up but locating pin solves all that. Thanks for the info and pictures.

 

Thanks Aiden for saving me the trip to google. like cat for you.

From a balance point of view, a press fit unit will be more repeatable on the balance machine. iv had stock dampers balanced and aftermarket and the aftermarket ones are much easier to get to a motorsport level balance.

 

I use 12.9 cap bolts replaced every time I pull out the engine. (12 - 18 months) If the damper comes off my engine will be destroyed due to interference and its not worth the risk for $3 in bolts.

 

At least the crank timing is sure to be right, lol. I've got the ATI.

Checked the price at Summit and they want $429 for them. August availability, in case anyone cares.

 

That's not awful. I kinda want to get one to cut in half.

 

For science! Or to ditch the AC belt?

 

Ditch the belt.

 

I might get one over the winter when I go larger turbo. Already have the BE pump this would add peace of mind. Thats not a bad price at all

 

I have had good luck with the Advanced Autosports upgraded damper bolts. They have the 16mm and 25mm lengths, and water pump pulley bolts too.

https://www.advanced-autosports.com/...olts-and-studs

 

It comes with the grade 12.x bolts in the box, according to the manufacturer's site in the link.