Hello all, I've been getting ready to install a turbo onto my car for a while now. The past few weeks I've installed a speedyefi ecu, Ive had the wideband in for a month or two by now. I got the car to run, start, and drive pretty good on stock everything deleting the maf, rerouting vacuum hoses and ridding myself of the vtcs solenoid and vacuum lines. Then I installed some 1000(730??) cc injectors I bought used. They were sold to me as FIC 1000's but upon arrival they were not, I couldnt even find a brand for them. I had them flow tested and they all surprisingly came out within acceptable realms of each other, flowing about 730cc at 43 psi. I calculated that to be around 850 on nb rail pressure. I then got the car running well on that after some req fuel stuff and trying to find good deadtimes for them knowing nothing about them. Started better, ran good and hit targets. Idling had a bit of a larger window of afr that it would stay at but I attributed it to me being incompetent. Installed flex fuel sensor and plumbed, used the fp to drain the tank, and filled up with some good corn fuel - getting me to about e77-e80. I turned on flex fuel and made some adjustments to the multipliers. I don't plan on using regular gas very often/at all, and when ill ever mess with adding gas to try and get the blending properly working. Anyways, I have set the e70-90 to a set flex change to eliminate variables in the ve table to get it dialed in. Autotuning on the first table, then eventually copying it to the second table and using that.

The issue i'm having is after I tune the idle afr, the ve table, try and blend it, retune it to make sure its still hitting targets. Once I'm done driving, I come back to idle, or I turn the car off and wait a bit, then go for a drive. The afr's change. Sometimes drastically all over the map, sometimes just the idle afr. I've made sure ase and wue arent affecting it, gamma stays the same, voltage correction isnt doing anything because my voltage is stable, deadtime isnt changing, I looked on my log with an untrained eye and couldnt find any reason for this. I'm going to attach tune and log. Feel free to roast the hell out of whatever is going on in it.

I'm also looking for any context or numbers to throw into closed loop idle pid to even make it even close to open loop. Ive played with it for hours and cant find a start on any of the values. ive tried Motorsport electronic's way of tuning it, megasquirts way, read the speedunio stuff, watched videos, im not grasping something. Any number I put in that helps it under load, makes it die on startup, and jump around and when the ac idle up activates. No spoonfeed necessary (unless you have the time) Just want a contextual starting point or insight on its logic.

 

Just regarding the closed loop idle, I never got it working either. I had a similar experience to you where I spent time and time again trying to get it to work but all it ever did was oscillate. I ended up being happy with Open loop + Idle Advance, but it certainly isn't as good as a properly working closed loop solution.

 

I actually just got to a place im happy with using it, ,03 , .03, .008 for pid, the issue i was unhappy with was the starting and dying + the ac causing issues, Changing the integral reset hyst to 2500 helped with the starting and dying + idle droop at stops. If I never needed to use ac, this would be ideal, but still working on getting that to work. I got the car to have a nice smooth happy map, and the idle somewhat stays where it should now. But I also turned on ego correction to fix the idle afr issues for now.

 

Coming from the Megasquirt world I can't speak about precise setting in the speedyefi ecu.

But my experience with the MS has led me to try tuning that "Initial Values Table" (on the MS) to help with stabilizing the onset of closed-loop control during transients. Also, I had good results with using the "Dashpot" setting to help out with easing idle droops I can't say if either of these things are available with your ECU.

 

(I'm on MS)

AFRs:
I have found that either EV14 or simply larger injectors in general are significantly affected by underhood heatsoak. Stock injectors operated stable, but as soon as I went to EV14 flowforce 725cc, my fueling requirements varied up to 25% at idle to 5% at high Kpa cells depending on underhood heatsoak. I tune for the heatsoak, and let EGO take care of the rest before underhood gets hot.

It makes sense because commanded PW on larger injectors will be smaller. Therefore, more subject to affects. Things get more crazy in the small PW non-linear range as well.

Larger EV14 are still needed for the flow. They handle AE and transitions much better than stock injectors too.

Idle and AC RPM hunting:
Look into initial values, rpm target timing correction, AC up allowances and idle VE table at AC rpms. These play a larger role than IAC PID sensitivity.

 

Idle control can run pretty well in Open+Closed mode. Just set IAC PWM duty a litthe higher than desired on particular RPM and set P 0.06 i 0.16 D 0.008 minimum 20 maximum 80 Integral reset RPM hysteresis 100. This worked well for me

also AC can be configured to activate smooth. Try AC com ON delay 0.5 IdleUp 8 IdleUp RPM adder 150

 

I did exactly that by setting the min pwm duty to whatever it idles at, then it doesnt go low enough to die most times. Also got ac to work 90% of the time.